Titebond Iii

[WezV]

I dont know if this has come up yet or not but is titebond III any good for what we do? My cousin was ordering some stuff and i asked him to get me some titebond, i should have specified it was the original i normally use.

Anyway, now its on its way and i wondered if i should use it for guitars. I know people dont recommend titebond II but i cant remember reading anthing about III.

Cheers

Wez

[Setch]

IIRC not recommended, for most of the same reasons as II.

Try some tests on scrap, I'd be interested to hear how it compares.

[SawDust_Junkie]

Hello WezV ! As far as I am aware, Titebond III is perfect acceptable for use in guitar making as far as strength goes. It will hold up as well Titebond original, if not better. I believe the reason most people here don't use it is that it is designed for marine use I think, and therefore is pretty much water proof. So, if you ever had to steam a joint loose to, for example, replace a broken set neck, or change out a fretboard, you would probably have a devil of a time doing it.

Anyone feel free to correct me if I am wrong, but I used Titebond III on my first build and had no problems with it. I have since used Titebond original and no problems there either.

[fryovanni]

WezV

A couple topics-

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Personally, Titebond 1 for me. It is such a cheap but crucial part of building I would get the titebond original and save the 3 for some other outdoor woodworking projects.

Rich

[WezV]

Thx fryovanni, i did search for titebond III but it took ages and timed out on me - guess i should have tried again. Thats pretty much what i expected to hear.

I will do some tests with the III but stick with original for now, is supposedly stronger and more cold resistant than original titebond but neither of these things are particularly important since the original is more than good enough. The water resistant thing does scare me because of the numerous joints i have steamed open and been glad of normal glue. The thing that worried me most is that the shelf life is apparently only 1 year compared with 2 for original titebond. Surely that means the glue will be nearly going off by the time its come from the factory sitting in there stores for a bit, through my supplier sitting on there shelfs for a bit, then to me.

I have about 1/4 of a mid-sized bottle of the original stuff left and was planning on doing some laminated neck blanks this weekend, but i guess thats gonna have to wait, maybe i will use III on something i make for myself to test it.

Cheers

Wez

[Desopolis]

I used it to join my body(swamp ash)

and honestly its the same as T1. maybe the part about water proof is true, but the seam is invisible and thats all I cared about.

[WezV]

I used it to join my body(swamp ash)

and honestly its the same as T1. maybe the part about water proof is true, but the seam is invisible and thats all I cared about.

Good to know that it can work but there is a lot more to worry about than invisible seams - creep, shelf life, strength, how easy it cleans up (wet and dry), how solid it dries,, etc.........

[Mattia]

Avoid it. C'mon, glue's cheap, use stuff that works.

pva glues, and their cousins AR glues, creep. They're plastic. Flexible. Titebond Original (or I, whatever) dries by far hardest, and has the least creep of its 'more modern' brothers titebond II and III. Are they strong enough? Sure. It's wood glue. But it will stay more flexible, softer, may move more, etc. The only place I can see Titebond II or III being useful is in laminating purflings that need to be bent using heat, because it should have better heat resistance.

[WezV]

Good point Mattia, thats why i would never have even brought it myself. Ah well, i will delay my laminating antics for another week or so till the original recipe stuff turns up.

I didnt ask my cousin how much titebond III he had ordered, but i reckon he will have got quite a lot - lucky i am doing my Kitchen soon i suppose.