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String Ferrule/ T.o.m. Set Up


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I'm at the last stages of a carvetop build and finalizing my string ferrule placement.

I've seen the odd guitar with the ferrules placed closer to the bridge to such an extent that the strings actually apply

pressure to the back of the T.O.M. bridge behind the saddles. Is there any hard or fast rules regarding whether it is

theoretically good/bad to have them grounding on the back of the bridge? Curiosity has me a'ponderin'

I guess the same applies if using a stopbar setup also

Any hard and fast method for this? :D

cheers, Stu

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I have always heard that you don't want the strings to be touching the back side of the bridge; but I don't know why. I have even read a quote by a guy in the Gibson custom shop, commenting on his restoration of a '58 or '59 (can't remember which) Les Paul, saying that the guitar sounded better if the strings were not at such a steep angle behind the bridge to be making contact with the back of the bridge. Even if that is true, I would think one would want as steep of an angle behind the bridge as possible to maximize sustain, but maybe not to the point of touching the bridge.

I will be making the same decision on my Cadillac copy before too long, so I'll be watching here to see what the more experienced builders say. As far as the ferrule placement goes, I'm leaning towards a design that has two diagonal rows of three holes, parallel to each other. I've seen that quite a bit and I think it looks pretty sharp. :D

Edited by Stolysmaster
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I have always heard that you don't want the strings to be touching the back side of the bridge; but I don't know why.

That's what I figured. But the question is still out there people.

Why is it theoretically good/bad to build a string thru setup with strings wrapping down the back of the T.O.M. bridge ?

Is it string break..........tuning stability problems .........Or will it increase sustain?

cheers, Stu

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Ok, the differences are minute... very very very small...

Ferrules close enough that strings hit back of bridge:

louder (couldnt hear a difference by ear, but various mics and recording proved a difference), more sustain (once again, couldnt hear by ear, but a recording could notice), less post bridge buzzing (see previous), more tuning stability after bending and after inital string up, harder to bend notes (virtually unnoticable without a tension guage), more string breakages over time (not worth measuring, it really isnt an issue).

Personally, i dont think the differences are enough either way (hitting or not) to make a decision purely based on that alone. I let the design of the guitar dictate the ferrule position.

If i ever design a tunomatic bridge, it will have a rounded back edge, so its "improved".

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If i ever design a tunomatic bridge, it will have a rounded back edge, so its "improved".

Nothing to stop anyone from modifying their existing bridge like that....it's a great idea...or just cut rounded grooves for the strings themselves.

For what it's worth, the strings rest against the metal behind the saddles of the compensated wraparounds and Badass style bridges...but my strings always break at the saddle, never behind them (it's easy enough to figure out).

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If i ever design a tunomatic bridge, it will have a rounded back edge, so its "improved".

Nothing to stop anyone from modifying their existing bridge like that....it's a great idea...or just cut rounded grooves for the strings themselves.

Yup, ive done that to, but it would be much nice from the "factory" with a nice round, and all nicely chromed etc. :D

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An updated T.O.M. setup would be a godsend.

I'm leaning towards a design that has two diagonal rows of three holes, parallel to each other. I've seen that quite a bit and I think it looks pretty sharp.

Ferrule placements drilled , recessed and in perfect placement, sir . (I'm also a fan of that layout.)

p.s. I gave a bit of room above the bridge. Ferrules get pushed back further, but I'd prefer that.

cheers, Stu

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