Searching For Discusions On Routing Binding Channel On Contoured Top

[Stolysmaster]

For some unknown reason, the search engine on this site will not allow me to search for a particular topic! When I try, the result is a page that says that the webpage is not available, and that I may have a connection problem to the internet.? Can anyone help me with this? Thanks

Edited January 7, 2007 by Stolysmaster

[oz tradie]

It all depends on what you're asking about. If it's to do with how its possible to rout a channel on a carvetop, then this is a good starting point. It's all pretty self explanatory from herein.

Stewmac binding guide

[Stolysmaster]

I found a discussion on the topic from this past November, and the question was never really resolved. That is, how to rout a binding channel on the top of an "armrest", like that on a Strat without using a CNC. One person said that they had chisseled the contoured part by hand, but it did not turn out as uniform and smooth as the flat part of the top. I don't think I will be able to do it. I'll probably have to settle for an all flat top without the armrest if I want binding.

[oz tradie]

I do agree that there will be elements of the forearm contour which may need to be done manually. (AFAIK)

To be simplistic, it's only going to take extra time and patience.

And the extra time it takes, I'd reckon would be worth it. It does look pretty good when done well.

[erikbojerik]

For a flat body like a strat, I'd purchase the StewMac binding router bit set (the bit with 9 different-sized bearings) and do it on a router table. You choose the bit that will give you the proper width of cut, and the router sets the depth.

For the forearm contour you'll have to work the bit up and shave off a little at a time; even then, you'll end up with a bit of a stair-stepped bottom to the channel that you'll have to smooth over by hand. But you'll be close.

The suspended router jig I made here could also do it, but it is really for carved or radiused tops and is not really necessary for a flat top instrument. The forearm contour also has a more extreme curve to it than an acoustic top, so that my jig would not really register very well at the edge.

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...st&p=308324

[Stolysmaster]

For a flat body like a strat, I'd purchase the StewMac binding router bit set (the bit with 9 different-sized bearings) and do it on a router table. You choose the bit that will give you the proper width of cut, and the router sets the depth.

For the forearm contour you'll have to work the bit up and shave off a little at a time; even then, you'll end up with a bit of a stair-stepped bottom to the channel that you'll have to smooth over by hand. But you'll be close.

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...st&p=308324

One problem that I see with this idea is that it does not take into account that the 90 degree angle that you would normally have on a flat top guitar would start to change the moment the forearm contour began. The side of the guitar remains perpendicular to the table top, but the edge of the countour, relative to the side, changes constantly through the curve of the armrest. I don't know of any bit that can do that! Do you?

[strangegrey]

I have an earlier generation of this stewmac binding guide....It's a certifiable waste of money. I remember having trouble with it years ago, and it collected dust in my drawer....until my LP build demanded that I give it another chance.

So I took it out and tested on a few pieces of scrap wood....and the results were the same. It's tremendously hard to maintain an exact 90 degree angle on the wood....and what happens is that you not only get an uneven channel....but if you're not *extremely* careful and the angle to the wood your cutting draws closer to the body, you can actually eat out more wood than it is intended for. The end result is that you have a binding channel that is shallow in some places and too deep in others.

It also is very prone to tearing and spitting....probably due to the fact that you're using a weaker dremel instead of a real router.

This actually strikes close to home...because I had forgotten how error prone this unit was.....as I had plans to bind both my LP body and neck with this unit....and now I cant. The only way I can do a binding channel now, is to spend 50 bucks on StewMacs rabbet bits.....I really wish I could find a less expensive alternative!!!