jsullysix Posted October 10, 2003 Report Share Posted October 10, 2003 sorry if this is a silly question, but i'm about to do this and i wanna make sure it's ok. i've got a guitar body (bare wood at the moment), that i was going to leave natural on the face, but stain the back and sides. i planned on using some watco's danish oil to bring out the figuring on the face, but can you then clear over an oil finish, or will the oil mess up the clear? sully Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted October 11, 2003 Report Share Posted October 11, 2003 Yes you can but depending on the amount the oil is absorbed into the wood vs staying on the surface you may run into spotting where the clear acts different when cureing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsullysix Posted October 11, 2003 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2003 thanks brian... i'm thinkin that if i treat the top with danish oil, buff the excess off, and repeat the process over 4 days, that should get rid of it, no? sully Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted October 11, 2003 Report Share Posted October 11, 2003 I honestly couldn't say I've seen clearcoats react different ways in the same situation, worse comes to worse you can always strip it back down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newc of the JCF Posted October 14, 2003 Report Share Posted October 14, 2003 How does Dying a figured top work? What do you do, get a bottle of that RIT dye and coat the raw wood? Some of the dyed tops Warmoth has look beautiful (Green, Blue, etc) and I thought about trying something like that if it was painless and simple (like me) What about putting food coloring or some of the aforementioned RIT (clothing) dye in some clearcoat (brush on)? Anyone ever try it? Newc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
butnut Posted October 14, 2003 Report Share Posted October 14, 2003 I've refinished a lot of Koa furniture using the Watco oil. If the wood is dry, you have to keep oiling and wipeing off. Just follow the instructions on the can. Sometimes, oiling with a piece of 400 grit gives a nice smooth application, especially if there is no clear, just an oil and wax finish. After the 'final' wipe off, let it dry 72 hours before shooting any clear. If it's sticky, you left too much oil on, a light wipe with some thinner, let it dry and you should be OK to shoot. I have a custom neck in the garage right now. I gave the back side a Danish oiling, made it slightly darker, I have to wait another day before I shoot, the lacquer I'm spraying has a slight amber to it...the large reverse Strat headstock will get a flamed metalflake paint job. I don't have much experience with dyes, but there are analine water and alcohol based dyes made for wood. I used a pink water based on some Birdseye once...very tricky geting the overlaps to look even. I don't know of any dye that works with a clear coat...tint maybe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsullysix Posted October 14, 2003 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2003 thanks again, guys! newc, go to reranch.com...they have the stuff there, and there's plenty o' directions. sully Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newc of the JCF Posted October 14, 2003 Report Share Posted October 14, 2003 Sweet! Newc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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