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Well I went out in this ice to get me a rasp! I got called with no work and I wasn't going to stay here with nothing to do! Igot one of the top ones, $7 at lowes. 5 min and the neck heel is done. I just got to glue and finish sanding!

1 more thing out of the way! too many to go!

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He does have one of those, but only for fine detail, the ones in the picture he use for coarse removal. Once I get back there I will be getting a few tools of my own, I think that most of the ones I got here will end up in storage until I decide to come back or get a place to build there!

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Hey Maiden, it's looking good!

About the carve I think it's a matter of taste, the flat carve reminds me of a Yamaha AES series . And I also love the PRS singlecut, but I'm sure whatever you choose it will look cool.

Also I like to wood selections; what kind of finish are you going to put?

sigue asi que está excelente, cheers

Alberto

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, little or nothing has being done!!! But one major change to the design was added... Sice I don't own a trem guitar, I decided to go ahead and make this one one!!! I went to a site that has gotten a lot of attention from here in the last few weeks, and ordered one chrome unit...

this is the one! So in one part I'm glad I left that flat portion on the top of the carve for routing, because I will need it right now.

Edited by Maiden69
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Believe me, I thought about making this a trem for long! But I like the TOM so it was that, but after looking at the point of how easy to install this thing is and that I always make the tops kinda flat, it was easy to make the choice.

And the one thing that got me to get it was the ability to lock the bridge with out reaching to the back (tremol no and a Floyd was my second choice!)

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Kahler arrived today! Very nice! And the PRS wiring kit from stew mac got here saturday and it is already prewired, all I got left to do now is to install and solder the pup wires and the output jack... Those should be here anytime this week from Specialty Guitars!!! Trim locks in satin, Jb(zebra) and Jazz (chrome cover)......

After routing I will start to stain the top.

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Not much happened. I got the rout for the Kahler, the new bit that I got from stew mac have like a 1/8 space between the cutter and the bearing, so it sliped under the template and damaged the rout in 2 spots, but the Kahler will cover it! I stained blue, sanded back and sanded to 400 and sealed the top and sides for now with a few coats of nitro., I will have to shoot a few more coats tomorrow before I sand smooth to 400 to add a few shade coats, before this I will glue the neck, drill the pilot holes for the pups and the kahler, and once the top is done, I will cover it and do the same to the back, I'm still not sure if I will tint the back blue like the top, I guess it all depends on how it looks after I have a few coats of clear in it!

DSC03347.jpg

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Sorry Sambo, I didn't take any pics, but it is the same color you see in the picture! I didn't stained too dark, I have found that it is not necesary, at least in my case if you are doing a sandback. If you stain very dark you have a lot of sanding to do!!!

Faded Jeans... yes, that's what I will like but the figure in this top got lost on 2 spots, so Iwill give it a little transparent blue on top. The ripples on this one have a strange shimmer when look at it from an angle, I really like it, it is a bit metalic.

OK, Edit to add picture. I just took this one, I have been playing with the flash and position trying to get the metalic effect to show, and on this picture you can see it in the bottom of the guitar and on a few other places. If you move the guitar from angles on the light, the effect shifts around the entire guitar. Kinda like the mirage on duplicolor, but this is only stain and clear.

DSC03351.jpg

To the experts, Myka, Perry, Drak, if I shoot a translucent blue on top, will this effect go away? Out of all the guitars that I have stained... about 10, this is the only one that have this effect. And I did the same I have done to all my guitars, this one was colortone blue with water, after I stained, I used a damp rag to "wipe" the excess from the top of the figure, wait till dry, sand back the same spots with 240, wipe clean with a wet rag, sand again t oremove any fuzz created with 400, blow the dust out and wipe clean with denaturated alcohol. Let dry and start to spray nitro.

Edited by Maiden69
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No aereosol cans... well, I'm using a preval since the last bass. I bought a can to test, and I found out that even tough DEFT is nitro, Behlens dries harder than DEFT's. And I can tint it to what ever shade I want. Believe me, it makes a big difference to shoot the last toner coat, over staining only directly to the wood.

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oooh.... :D ...hmm.... :D .....I'm not sure.....it's nearly there. I think that it looks good but it would be so easy to stop with that & not take it to the next step. I think that it might need one more stage...of...um, something. It's right on the fence between looking great & looking unfinished IMO & I wonder whether you might always wonder what it could have been like if you stop now.

As you've done some clear coats, couldn't you try a darker tint coat over the top & wipe it off if it's not right? I've not used tinted finishes so I don't know how they work.

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To the experts, Myka, Perry, Drak, if I shoot a translucent blue on top, will this effect go away?

I have seen that effect before on specific pieces of maple and liked it. If you spray color coats over this it will still be there but the tint will cover it a bit, how much depends on how transparent it is. Once you spray the colored lacquer you will see how it will look right away. So my advice is to try it and see. If you don't like it you can sand it off and continue with more clear.

~David

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