sbskates Posted January 18, 2007 Report Share Posted January 18, 2007 i need a good spray lacquer that dries fast and hardens good. in black color. i have used duplicolor acrylic lacquer it stays fumey for way too long. i have used duplicolor enamel and it stayed fumey for a year. i need something durable and fast . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden69 Posted January 18, 2007 Report Share Posted January 18, 2007 The only thing durable and fast is 2 part paint. Nitro will cure in a week, but will continue to settle and finish to cure in a month. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbskates Posted January 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2007 i need to paint a bass body i built. i am a working player and this is workhorse. i mainly just need a durable fast drying paint. thi sis gonna be a punk type stickered bass so perfection isnt a must. i dont have spray equip. the basses i build are usually figured wood so i never paint. but thi stime i need a paint job from a rattle can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden69 Posted January 18, 2007 Report Share Posted January 18, 2007 Well if it is going to be like that, you could get black primer, that will cure the next day, and it is a nice flat color... but a gloss paint, in a can... You can get black nitro from re-ranch... you will have to wait at least a week to use it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted January 18, 2007 Report Share Posted January 18, 2007 if you read the "sherwin williams" thread in the finishing section that i posted,i talk about a catalyzed varnish which is pretty good. but you would have to buy a universal black pigment for the color.. might be worth a shot. but you won't find what you are looking for in spraycan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted January 18, 2007 Report Share Posted January 18, 2007 i need to paint a bass body i built. i am a working player and this is workhorse. Surely you haven't left yourself without a usable instrument if it's bringing in your paycheck, so what's the real emergency here, why the big rush? You could have a nice nitro-sprayed body done in a month, compared to what you've related to us, a month ain't half bad...or take it to someone else to do it for you if the rush is that great, but I don't understand how you could have put yourself into a position like this full well knowing you had a deadline and also full well knowing that you're not a finishing guru, something isn't adding up in Mudville...please help me understand what your situation is in more detail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sand Paper Posted January 18, 2007 Report Share Posted January 18, 2007 Use a brush on self leveling acrylic or something and then buff it out to remove any stroke marks. Thin it down if you get brush marks in it. Paint is fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manquesa Posted January 18, 2007 Report Share Posted January 18, 2007 Go to your local auto body shop, ask them how much they'd charge to paint it. A buddy of mine did that a few years back and got a real nice paint job on his telecaster. It was gloss black with the sparkles in the paint (I don't know what you call it), he also got a real nice airbrushed graphic on it as well, a broken heart with barbed wire around it. He only paid about $60 for it but he knew a guy that worked there. I'd look into that though, they could have it finished and cured really quick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbskates Posted January 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2007 nitro is cool but i just dont want something that is made to age like nitro is as it seems. i just want something durable. theres no big rush its just i wanna paint it walk away a good month and let it dry and know its gonna dry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar2005 Posted January 18, 2007 Report Share Posted January 18, 2007 i need to paint a bass body i built. i am a working player and this is workhorse. but I don't understand how you could have put yourself into a position like this full well knowing you had a deadline and also full well knowing that you're not a finishing guru, something isn't adding up in Mudville...please help me understand what your situation is in more detail. Drak, why do you need to understand why he wants it done quickly - That's besides the point. Anyways, Duplicolor is crap and it doens't cure hard. It will stay soft although the solid colours are better than their clear. I would paint the bass in a solid enamel enamel from anyone but DupliColor and clear it with a poly or urethane. Keep in mind that buffing poly is harder than buffing urethane and that nitro give the best "clearness". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdismuke Posted January 18, 2007 Report Share Posted January 18, 2007 +1 for taking it to a body shop. You're not going to find what you're looking for in a can. Just curious ... if it's going to be covered in stickers, why bother painting it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted January 18, 2007 Report Share Posted January 18, 2007 you HAVE to protect it from moisture transfer... Anyways, Duplicolor is crap and it doens't cure hard. It will stay soft although the solid colours are better than their clear. I would paint the bass in a solid enamel enamel from anyone but DupliColor and clear it with a poly or urethane. Keep in mind that buffing poly is harder than buffing urethane and that nitro give the best "clearness". all of this sounds very poor.. polyeurethane is a varnish http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyurethane#Varnish urethane is something else entirely http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethyl_carbamate#Uses enamel is soft...never really cures hard enough(in my experience)and i really don't even know if it is compatible with polyeurethane paint http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Enamel_paint but why use enamel for color and then top it with polyeurethane?you can get polyeurethane in any color you wish...at any automotive paint store...and then you would KNOW it would never have compatibility issues. nitro best for clearness?well,i don't know about that either...polyester(which i ASSUME is what you meant by "poly"(poly only is a prefix which means "many")is supposed to be much clearer...but harder to buff and more expensive to apply i think.acrylic is also supposed to be clearer than nitro... there are many choices that can be made for guitar coatings,of which i know very little...but the best thing is to find what works for you and stick with it...personally,i woulld get a 2 part clear gloss of some type(like i said i am trying out the sher-wood water white clear gloss right now...supposed to be "bartop hard")and get the compatible dyes and pigments for it,and do the mixing yourself... i have a gallon of it...i can add pigment to a 100 cc batch and paint the color coat,let it harden and scuff it,and make more 100 cc clear batches to keep adding finish to it until it is thick enough,then let sit for a while and do the buuffing thing(basically anyway) spray cans suck for the most part...everything i have ever done with a spray can is now scratched and chipped...some of it has crazy checking as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted January 18, 2007 Report Share Posted January 18, 2007 spray cans suck for the most part...everything i have ever done with a spray can is now scratched and chipped...some of it has crazy checking as well. Which is a big part of their charm for me. And I get the feeling that a 'punk type' bass would do well with that too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar2005 Posted January 18, 2007 Report Share Posted January 18, 2007 you HAVE to protect it from moisture transfer... Anyways, Duplicolor is crap and it doens't cure hard. It will stay soft although the solid colours are better than their clear. I would paint the bass in a solid enamel enamel from anyone but DupliColor and clear it with a poly or urethane. Keep in mind that buffing poly is harder than buffing urethane and that nitro give the best "clearness". all of this sounds very poor.. polyeurethane is a varnish http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyurethane#Varnish urethane is something else entirely http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethyl_carbamate#Uses enamel is soft...never really cures hard enough(in my experience)and i really don't even know if it is compatible with polyeurethane paint http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Enamel_paint but why use enamel for color and then top it with polyeurethane?you can get polyeurethane in any color you wish...at any automotive paint store...and then you would KNOW it would never have compatibility issues. nitro best for clearness?well,i don't know about that either...polyester(which i ASSUME is what you meant by "poly"(poly only is a prefix which means "many")is supposed to be much clearer...but harder to buff and more expensive to apply i think.acrylic is also supposed to be clearer than nitro... Hey... Sorry if that sounds "poor" to you but that's my personal experience. Yeah, another option is just buy car paint... NO clear... but avoid duplicolor if you must use car paint. If you're going with spray cans, here in Canada UAP can mix any color for you and put it in a can. Not sure what the product is but I used it once... on a car. Finish was pretty durable. If going with enamel, like I said, coat it with something hard. If the enamel is thin enough, you should be fine in terms of enamel "softness". Not the best option out there but an option nonetheless. By Poly, I meant Polyurethane, not polyester. By urethane I meant exactly that: Urethane. A quick google search finds this. I've used this. Personally, I find that Nitro provides the best "clearness". Personal experience and opinion. For solid colours, I guess its not an issue. You're right though, spray a finish with a spray gun is the best option if you have the gear and experience. Quick question, how many coats of finish would you spray with a 2-part finish and do you have to sand between coats? I try to avoid finishes where I have to sand between coats. Has anyone heard of catalyzed lacquer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted January 18, 2007 Report Share Posted January 18, 2007 You're right though, spray a finish with a spray gun is the best option if you have the gear and experience.i have been using those little preval sprayers from stewmac recently...it allows you to mix 2 part and spray it fresh...most 2 parts only have a small pot life...so ANYTHING you get in a can is not going to be as durable... the stuff i am using right now has a pot life of 24 hours max...i have been making a 100 cc batch and it takes about 5 minutes worth of coats to go through that...you know,spray,wait to get slightly tacky,spray again...just don't let it get heavy enough to curtain...then i clean the pot(the thinner for what i am using is xylene)and let dry... after 45 minutes it is ready to scuff sand to start the next spray session...after i go through that process three times,it is thick enough to level sand(level sanding can be done after 45 minutes from last coat)gently...it is easy to sand at this point,once sanded level i spray another coat,then at this point i think it is time to let it sit and cure for a week or so(don't really know if a week is necessary..it claims a 24 hour full cure,but we all know that can be misleading)then it's time to buff it out...but i have not reached the buffing stage on anything at this point with this particular finsh but keep in mind the preval sprayers say you can use them for auto polyeurethane as well....so that pretty much gets rid of the need for expensive pray equipment...but you need at least 10 of those recharge units to make one guitar finish i think Yeah, another option is just buy car paint "car paint" is very unclear...they include enamels,polyeurethane,and others...i think you are talking entirely about stuff that comes in cans I try to avoid finishes where I have to sand between coats. that is a strange way of saying this...i think you mean you prefer finishes that "burn in" to the previous coats?well...nitro definately is one of those...but polyeurethane is not from what i understand...but if a finish is fully cured,you still have to scuff it for the mechanical bond as far as i know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USAF1989 Posted January 20, 2007 Report Share Posted January 20, 2007 "i think you mean you prefer finishes that "burn in" to the previous coats?well...nitro definately is one of those...but polyeurethane is not from what i understand..." Polyurethane will bond with itself if applied while soft, which is the best application method IMO. If mixed properly, it'll dry extremely hard, and is quite durable. Resists chipping and scratches. It's easy to repair scratches. Most clears will yellow over time, even if ever-so slightly. Been a cabinetmaker for 17 years, and have a lot of experience in this area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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