Excessive String Breaks. Any Ideas

[andyruney]

My acoustic has been giving me trouble lately as far as string life. About half the times that I put on new strings, the G string breaks right at the point where it touches the bridge in a day or two. I usually use extra light elixir nanowebs, but it has happened with other brands too. At first I thought it was the strings, now I'm not sure. There is no rough spot on the bridge either. Does anyone have any suggestions or ideas?

[rhoads56]

You need to deburr the bridge.

[Setch]

Deburr an acoustic saddle? Sounds improbable to me.

I'd examine your stringing syle - is it possible you're putting a sharp kink in the string as you put it on? Is the break angle very severe between saddle and bridge pin?

[rhoads56]

Deburr an acoustic saddle? Sounds improbable to me.

what i mean is: file a round back onto the saddle rather than the sharp edge that will be there now. Deburr, as opposed to "it has a burr".

[Acousticraft]

I used to break a lot of strings when I first played guitars through incorrect tuning. By that I mean if you don't use an electronic tuner it easier to tune the guitar higher than concert pitch and most strings don't like being tuned more than a semi-tone above pitch as it stretches the string too much and makes them prone to breakage. This is even worse if you really thrash your strings. Aso dont overdo the pre-stretching when fitting new strings as this can weaken them.

The other point that has already been mentioned is having a sharp saddle edge and extreme angle over to bridge pin holes.

[fryovanni]

A picture of the bridge with the strings attached would help. Before you start smoothing the bridge out(and it does sound like you have a overly sharp edge or too strong of a break angle). Take a close look at the shape of the top of the saddle. A well made bridge saddle will be shaped for proper intonation. From the contact point(which should not be extreamly sharp) over the back of the saddle should be shaped to allow the string to travel cleanly to the bridge pin hole. Bridges and saddles can wear and set up bad angles, and soundboards can also become deformed(generally dropping the front of the bridge) which can set up bad angles. A picture of what you are dealing with will help us see what you are dealing with.

Peace,Rich

[GoodWood]

A picture of the bridge with the strings attached would help. Before you start smoothing the bridge out(and it does sound like you have a overly sharp edge or too strong of a break angle). Take a close look at the shape of the top of the saddle. A well made bridge saddle will be shaped for proper intonation. From the contact point(which should not be extreamly sharp) over the back of the saddle should be shaped to allow the string to travel cleanly to the bridge pin hole. Bridges and saddles can wear and set up bad angles, and soundboards can also become deformed(generally dropping the front of the bridge) which can set up bad angles. A picture of what you are dealing with will help us see what you are dealing with.

Peace,Rich

Yea, I have a Tacoma guitar, DM9, its a $500. guitar, and there are no extras. Solid wood and all, good sound, but the saddle and nut is done poorly. I pop strings when I bang it. Looking at kinkeads book, the strings should sit at the halfway or more in the saddle. Can wait to get my file set and do it right.

[andyruney]

Thanks for all the input. The last time I changed the strings, I lightly sanded and smoothed out the bridge. Then I put some graphite (the same stuff used for doorlocks) on all the contact points, including the nut. My strings have been lasting as long as they should with this method. I plan on replacing the bridge though.