TechArt Posted February 4, 2007 Report Share Posted February 4, 2007 I just completed my first part on my new CNC machine..an ebony bridge of my own design for an OM that I am building: The box is sitka spruce, with black walnut back & sides and ebony binding. I was doing everything by hand on the box - including planing...but now that I have the CNC I'll do the neck carving & inlaying with that! So far I'm very happy with the machine...looking forward to seeing how this can help me build a better guitar! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted February 5, 2007 Report Share Posted February 5, 2007 What CNC you get? Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TechArt Posted February 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2007 I've got a K2 3925G with 8" Z and servo motors...I'm running Mach III as the controller & I'm using Rhino CAD & Rhino CAM for surfacing, drawing, & CAM stuff. What CNC you get? Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jer7440 Posted February 5, 2007 Report Share Posted February 5, 2007 Nice! I'm a cnc guy too. I look forward to seeing what else you come up with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TechArt Posted February 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2007 Nice! I'm a cnc guy too. I look forward to seeing what else you come up with. Cool - what type of machine do you have? What do you use for CAD/CAM? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davee5 Posted February 5, 2007 Report Share Posted February 5, 2007 I like the design, but that machining finsih has r-r-r-r-ridges! What's your stepover/ridgeheight on those surfaced sides there? also any reason you chose to do it with the in-line cutting path vs. contour? I'd figure contour woiuld be way easier to sand out, but I'm not thinking about it that hard. Or perhaps you want the machine lines as part of the design aesthetic? I think they might grow on me, if it didn't look like a poorly programmed part to those with machine experience. Then again all my CNC work is suuuuper-fine with uch tighter tolerances than a K2 machine could hold, so perhaps my frame of reference is a littel unfair. Anyhow, like the shape, make some more stuff! -Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TechArt Posted February 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2007 The stepover for the carve is .050 and I carved it with a 3/4" ball mill. I chose the toolpath I did because with wood it is easier and better to cut with the grain than to quarter across it or go against it. The peak heights are so small that they will be easy to sand out regardless of the toolpath orientation. I definitely don't want to see toolpath lines as part of the finished part! It may look like a poorly programmed part to those with metalworking CNC experience...for those of us in woodworking, this is what you shoot for. You can use a smaller stepover and eliminate those lines...but it's a part that will need to be sanded in the end and you would just end up wasting machine time using such a small step. As for tolerances on wood - with woodworking I've found that you really only need to hold a few thousandths. The parts may measure more consistently right off the machine, but give it a day of fluctuating humidity & temperature and they'll be off by that much anyway! Now something like a neck pocket obviously requires a great fit..and this is best done by hand fitting it once you are ready to glue the neck in.. I like the design, but that machining finsih has r-r-r-r-ridges! What's your stepover/ridgeheight on those surfaced sides there? also any reason you chose to do it with the in-line cutting path vs. contour? I'd figure contour woiuld be way easier to sand out, but I'm not thinking about it that hard. Or perhaps you want the machine lines as part of the design aesthetic? I think they might grow on me, if it didn't look like a poorly programmed part to those with machine experience. Then again all my CNC work is suuuuper-fine with uch tighter tolerances than a K2 machine could hold, so perhaps my frame of reference is a littel unfair. Anyhow, like the shape, make some more stuff! -Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuitarGuy Posted February 5, 2007 Report Share Posted February 5, 2007 If you can swing it use a bigger ball endmill. i use a 5/8" on my radius blocks. It allows you to take larger steps or gives you smaller ridges whichever you prefer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted February 5, 2007 Report Share Posted February 5, 2007 Nice bridge. I look forward to seeing how your neck turns out. I would also like to see how the box on this one looks. Keep up the good work, Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jer7440 Posted February 6, 2007 Report Share Posted February 6, 2007 Hey I have a Haas cnc mill at my work. (Family business.) I use mastercam for my design and programming. Here is a link to my in progress thread. My CNC LP It's kind of been a slow project...but it's coming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TechArt Posted February 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2007 I have something special in mind for the back of this acoustic. I have the box built right now...but I'm going to tear it down a little in order to get something better. I don't want to say anymore right now...but I'll post pics when I get it together. It should be killer....it's all I could think about today at work! Jer - I use a similar machine & software at work - we run Fadal's with SolidWorks, Rhino, and MasterCAM. I've never done much surfacing work with MasterCAM..but I can say that Rhino and Solidworks are both capable packages. Your LP surface looks cool - well done!! Surfacing is no easy task...! Hey I have a Haas cnc mill at my work. (Family business.) I use mastercam for my design and programming. Here is a link to my in progress thread. My CNC LP It's kind of been a slow project...but it's coming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davee5 Posted February 7, 2007 Report Share Posted February 7, 2007 .... I chose the toolpath I did because with wood it is easier and better to cut with the grain than to quarter across it or go against it. The peak heights are so small that they will be easy to sand out regardless of the toolpath orientation. I definitely don't want to see toolpath lines as part of the finished part! It may look like a poorly programmed part to those with metalworking CNC experience...for those of us in woodworking, this is what you shoot for. You can use a smaller stepover and eliminate those lines...but it's a part that will need to be sanded in the end and you would just end up wasting machine time using such a small step. Interesting points, I've never NC machined wood so the bit about grain lines is good to know for future reference. I'm also used to working in a company with ludicroiusly high tolerances on both fit and surface finish, so my ingrained expectations about surfacing work don't really translate well into the wood world where sanding is a reasonable option. I'm glad you're more on top of this than I am. I like your sense of style, so I'm anxious to see what's got you all worked up. -Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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