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Another Variation Of Round Peg In Square Hole


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Newbie question... I'm putting together a strat-type guitar using a new body and used neck, both bought on e-bay. This is my first attempt at anything like this. I measured the nut to 12th fret distance, and it's 12.75". Also the 12th fret to bridge distance, and it's 12.75". So, hopefully, intonation won't be a problem? The fingerboard looks about the right height above the body, relative to the bridge and where the pickups will sit. But the end of the neck is rounded, and the routed pocket is square, so there are gaps in the corners... not good? Should I use a filler (like I'd use to snug fit a rifle's action to the stock) to get a better fit? Or leave the gaps there, covered by the pickguard? Or... ??? Any help much appreciated.

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As long as the intonation is correct, those gaps aren't a problem.

Just in case-- the scale you want should be measured on the High E side from the front edge of the nut (i.e., where the string leaves the nut) to the High E saddle (not to the edge of the bridge).

It's worth double-checking to make sure.

Weird that a strat-style body has a squared pocket.

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Thanks for the advice.

I was surprised that neck and body didn't match better. Like I said the neck is a Johnson, but the end looks the same shape as the one on my Fender. The body isn't actually the one shown by the seller (MusicValue) on eBay but the neck pockets look the same. (This one came with a bridge and jack already installed - nice! So, I'm certainly not going to complain.)

Just the corners of the pockets are rounded but the end of the neck has a nice, gentle radius all the way across. As long as it doen't matter, I'll just fit it tight in the middle and shim the sides (very slightly to get a real tight fit that way. I'm also going to have to fill existing screw holes and re-drill to get a good match. I plan on glueing wooden pins in to the old holes.

Strangely enough, the screw holes on the Squire pickguard that I'm planning to use don't line up either, and the bottom tone pot is a little too wide for the routed cavity. Guess that these are adjustments that I should expect to make?

Given the intonation adjustment that's available on the bridge, I measured to the saddle, but assumed that exact didn't matter. Right? We can take care of minor differences with that adjustment?

Follow up question on the intonation... I understand in principle what we're trying to do when we adjust the intonation on each string; I understand how to tune the open string of course; now, how do I check the 18th(?) fret for correct tuning? I'm using a Crate CT-1 tuner that auto-detects the string and shows both low/correct/high lights and a needle-guage. I need simple, how-to advice here, not a theoretical discussion, please. (I'm a beginner guitarist, as well as a beginner builder.)

Another follow up question! I'm actually using a lefty neck (with a gold righty body, like Dick Dales). I realize the low strings are going to be longer above the nut, but can't see any reason why that matters. Are there other potential problems with this combination that I should be aware of before I start drilling holes and driving in screws?

Don't ask why! It's my first project, so it's supposed to be a learning experience, right?

Thanks, again.

--- Mark.

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my replacement tone and Vol pots were larger then the originals, so as long as they fit who cares. its not like your trying to make it all original.

as for the intonation, your tuner isnt really telling you what string as much as its telling you what note it is. Id assume its somthing like my qwik tune in function. with a simple set of red/green lights.

Id suggest get a better tuner, like a Korg CA-30 or similar.

let me also say this, when I adjust for intonation, I use open and the 12th fret, and again if its a 24 fret neck. I was told to assume that some of the frets wont be perfect, so as far as the 18th being the correct note I done know.

as far as the lefty thing goes, I dont see it being a large issue. Ive seen/played a few like that and never heard of it being a problem..

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let me also say this, when I adjust for intonation, I use open and the 12th fret

I was under the impression that is the only way to check your intonation?

I'm not sure why you're trying to intonate at the 18th fret. Think about it: the 12th fret is the octave of the open string. If the 12th fret is in tune with the open string, there is a reasonable chance the rest of the neck will be in tune as well. This is also the reason why you measure scale from the nut to the 12th fret, then double that to get your scale to the High E saddle.

No offense, Mark, but if you don't know this kind of basic information, I think you'd be better served by spending a while reading up before continuing with your project. It'll all make much more sense to you, and you'll have a better chance of getting things right.

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+1 to what Mick said.

It does matter how exact the bridge to nut measurement is & if the intonation isn't set correctly the whole guitar will be out of tune. They can be made from any ol' piece of junk, any shape, any size, any colour but if the neck & bridge aren't setup correctly it simply won't work....every note apart from the open strings will be out of tune

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How exact is "exact?" Like, within 1/32", 1/64", 1/1000"? Also, should I adjust the saddle at the center of its movement before measuring, and fixing neck to body?

No offense, Mark, but if you don't know this kind of basic information, I think you'd be better served by spending a while reading up before continuing with your project. It'll all make much more sense to you, and you'll have a better chance of getting things right.
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