Jump to content

Altrnitives To Buffing?

Recommended Posts

i was wondering about this iv read that people sand down to 2500 wet dry and they dont need to buff is this true or do i always need to buff?

You will still need to buff. I use trizac 3000 with an interface pad to sand and that makes it about 4000 and it still needs to be buffed with the last two stages of polish

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i just got my micromesh in today...the stuff is incredible...it lasts much longer than sandpaper,doesn't load up nearly as much,leaves consisten scratches,and works really,really fast with minimal effort

if you go all the way to 12000 you won't need to buff...at least that's what they say...but i just went from orange peel to 3200 in under an hour...i am going to buff from there...3200 is a reasonable satin finish

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Best thing I've found for polishing inlays in the fret board is Micro Mesh.

The 1600 grit first, then the 2400 grit to finish will give the pearl or abalone a great shine.

Also this;

The black markings in abalone.

I call this "Abalone Boogers" because it is a soft material between the grain layers in the shell blanks.

Often when you have sanded the inlay flush, there is a black mark where you don't want it.

You can scrape most of this thin layer of Abalone Booger off the inlay with a sharp knife.

Then polish the nice abalone below with Micro Mesh and the inlay will look great.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...