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Trem King?


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I would like to try one. Sounds like they feel like a kahler. I wonder how hard it is to change the parts that wear out. They talk about a graphite pin or something.

I think that's just the graphtech part of the saddle, sort of like Graphtech's Ferraglide.

The video looks pretty cool. It's a pretty pricey part though, and he doesn't give very detailed photos --I'd like to see more specs, and especially a routing diagram for the telecaster version.

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I would like to try one. Sounds like they feel like a kahler. I wonder how hard it is to change the parts that wear out. They talk about a graphite pin or something.

I think that's just the graphtech part of the saddle, sort of like Graphtech's Ferraglide.

The video looks pretty cool. It's a pretty pricey part though, and he doesn't give very detailed photos --I'd like to see more specs, and especially a routing diagram for the telecaster version.

Yes I would like to see the routing also. A Kahler has the same pivot point as the trem king. And the intonation does not change on a Kahler. But a Kahler has no stabilizers. For the price it may be the way of the future. We need some input from someone who has one. Anybody have one??

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I was spammed by this but I became curious anyway (there's a video of it on youtube)

Anyone here seen a Trem King in action? Looks like a nice solution...and finally someone invented a real telecaster trem (I had to invent my own)

Kind of pricey, but it seems that prices on FR types are even higher

Hi, I guess I spammed you without knowing what I was doing. The TremKing is a fixed bridge vibrato for guitars. We do make a tele version and it works great. Only a handful of players are using it on stage at the moment. George Marinelli with Bonnie Raitt and Gary Nicholson. Of course there is extensive routing for a tele. The strat version needs some routing inside the body. The TremKing is a fixed bridge, but the tone block pivots. So, there needs to be about 40-45 mm of room for it to swing back and forth. Grpah Tech is making our saddle pins. We have used their material for 2 years with no problems at all. I hope I am not spamming again...

Rusty

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Looks pretty cool. A Khaler must have some sort of "stabilizers", no? I've never used one, but the literature talks about how it returns to a neutral position that you can "feel".

In any event, the Trem King and Khalers are the way forward.

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Hi, I guess I spammed you without knowing what I was doing.

Well, for once it's a product I'm interested in...(don't need the Big V , or my organs enhanced* for that matter). And it's about time someone came up with a alternative trem for the telecaster.

Do you have plans to publish routing diagrams on your site? I'd definitely like to know more, see more detailed photos there.

(funny, the site's censor automatically converts both p-enis and v- iagra into the word 'spam' !)

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Hi, I guess I spammed you without knowing what I was doing.

Well, for once it's a product I'm interested in...(don't need the Big V , or my organs enhanced* for that matter). And it's about time someone came up with a alternative trem for the telecaster.

Do you have plans to publish routing diagrams on your site? I'd definitely like to know more, see more detailed photos there.

(funny, the site's censor automatically converts both p-enis and v- iagra into the word 'spam' !)

I can email you a routing diagram if you like. Or however you arrange something like that on this site. A .pdf file. And yes, we will eventually get that on the site as well. Simply the bridge and saddles are fixed. the tone block pivots on a bearing and a pin. The strings mount as usual thru the bottom of the tone block, but come out the back of the tone block about half way up. The strings wrap around a radiiused top edge of the tone block and up ove the Graph Tech saddle pins. Only two springs are needed usually. One spring to the tone block. the middle spring goes to the Tension Bar. This rides behind the tone block and counteracts the spring pressure. It also acts to stop any movement of the toneblock when bending strings, breaking strings drop tuning, etc.

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That Trem-King looks interesting! A question - do the strings actually slide forward and back over the teflon (graphtech) part of the saddle? (similar to how the strings moved over the rollers on a Kahler)

If so, does the teflon material work as good or better than rollers?

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That Trem-King looks interesting! A question - do the strings actually slide forward and back over the teflon (graphtech) part of the saddle? (similar to how the strings moved over the rollers on a Kahler)

If so, does the teflon material work as good or better than rollers?

Yes, the strings move back and forth over the Graph Tech saddle pins. The patented material Graph Tech uses works very well. Rollers have been tried with this system. The metal string on the metal roller causes too much heat and the strings break. The Graph Tech material wears down and makes a 'hard spot' that is very slick. We have has these saddle pins out there on units for 2 1/2 years with out any trouble. when it does finally wear down too much, you can remove the saddle, carefully tap the pin out, turn it and tap it back in for years more of service!

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Thanks - I had a Kahler for years, so I'm familiar with the rollers issues. Kinda ironic considering all the manufacturing and construction that needs to go into rollers, and yet a simple piece of teflon-plastic works better.

GregP - I had a very early 80's Kahler and it had no stabilizer, so I'm not sure what they use now, maybe some kind of "zero point" thing like a tremsetter? I had mine set to dive only, so that solved the tuning issues if a string broke.

I also like how the Trem-King attaches the bar between the hi B&E strings - I liked that about my old Kahler.

But I'm still trying to figure out (looking at the pics and video) how the Trem-King addresses the "break a string and stay in tune issue". Is it by having a zero point ground onto the pivot? Or is it because the string angle coming out of the middle of the block is so slight that there's much less leverage acting against the spring/tension bar?

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Thanks - I had a Kahler for years, so I'm familiar with the rollers issues. Kinda ironic considering all the manufacturing and construction that needs to go into rollers, and yet a simple piece of teflon-plastic works better.

GregP - I had a very early 80's Kahler and it had no stabilizer, so I'm not sure what they use now, maybe some kind of "zero point" thing like a tremsetter? I had mine set to dive only, so that solved the tuning issues if a string broke.

I also like how the Trem-King attaches the bar between the hi B&E strings - I liked that about my old Kahler.

But I'm still trying to figure out (looking at the pics and video) how the Trem-King addresses the "break a string and stay in tune issue". Is it by having a zero point ground onto the pivot? Or is it because the string angle coming out of the middle of the block is so slight that there's much less leverage acting against the spring/tension bar?

OK, it stays in tune because of the "tension bar" behind the tone block. Only two springs are usually needed for the TremKing. One spring goes into the tone block. The other spring is in the middle and it attaches to the tension bar that rests behind the tone block. The tension bar butts up to a r/h and l/h arm on either side of the tone block and that serves as the zero point. The tension bar conteracts the string tension pulling on the tone block.

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I had to watch the video a few more times before it hit...

Now THAT's clever! The tension bar assembly is sort of a secondary assembly that's upblocked to dive only, and the spring tension is slightly more than the string tension... which is sorta how I had my old upblocked Kahler... so even if you REALLY bend the strings, the trem wont start to dive... or if you break a string, the tension bar wont push the tremblock forward. The tremblock rests against that when diving. The trick is that the tremblock disconnects from the tension bar assembly when pulling up, and only the string tension is being used from that point. Sound about right?

(if so, I would presume it requires just *slightly* more finger pressure to dive rather than to pull up?)

Kudos to the inventor!

Edited by P90
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I had to watch the video a few more times before it hit...

Now THAT's clever! The tension bar assembly is sort of a secondary assembly that's upblocked to dive only, and the spring tension is slightly more than the string tension... which is sorta how I had my old upblocked Kahler... so even if you REALLY bend the strings, the trem wont start to dive... or if you break a string, the tension bar wont push the tremblock forward. The tremblock rests against that when diving. The trick is that the tremblock disconnects from the tension bar assembly when pulling up, and only the string tension is being used from that point. Sound about right?

(if so, I would presume it requires just *slightly* more finger pressure to dive rather than to pull up?)

Kudos to the inventor!

I'll tell him you gave him Kudos! RE: Pressure up and down. When the TremKing is adjusted right, the pressure is really about the same up and down. Also, it is the same pressure just a little down as it is all the way down. Same for up. Feels more like a lever instead of a trem bar that increases pressure the more you pull up or push down.

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I love the idea of this bridge, having a trem that acts like a fixed bridge when not in use. The trouble is I'm building a nice looking carved top neck through, and that bridge looks like the $19.00 unit that came with my first Squire. I realize the stamped sheetmetal look resembles some of the vintage style bridges, but for that kind of money I would expect it to look more like a Hipshot or a Schaller fixed bridge. I would drop it in a strat any day, but it just doesn't look nice enough for a custom made guitar. The price it's self is fair for the mechanicals of it. It's looks just don't match it's price. Sorry Trem King I got to pass on this one.

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I love the idea of this bridge, having a trem that acts like a fixed bridge when not in use. The trouble is I'm building a nice looking carved top neck through, and that bridge looks like the $19.00 unit that came with my first Squire. I realize the stamped sheetmetal look resembles some of the vintage style bridges, but for that kind of money I would expect it to look more like a Hipshot or a Schaller fixed bridge. I would drop it in a strat any day, but it just doesn't look nice enough for a custom made guitar. The price it's self is fair for the mechanicals of it. It's looks just don't match it's price. Sorry Trem King I got to pass on this one.

I'm sorry, I just see this post as a bit unfair. I've seen more photos of the unit (I asked for them, he sent them) and there's nothing cheap-looking about it. And as I mentioned, I like a lot of the design features. On the other hand, I agree the web site needs more photos and especially professional product photos.

I think the problem is that this bridge doesn't match your tastes or the design needs of your project --you want a different look entirely. That's your right of course, and there's nothing wrong with that.

This bridge is meant to drop into a strat and or telecaster or variant thereof and look completely natural there. I think it definitely succeeds there.

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Mick, that's fair enough, but I think he's got a point; there's certainly a market for an 'oem' version that would look less out of place on something that didn't look like a strat or tele. The 'airspace' behind the saddles is also a little disconcerting to me, and that's a matter of taste; I'm not wild about the design in an aesthetic sense, although the mechanics look interesting. I actually think the Tele version looks better than the strat version, overall.

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Mick, that's fair enough, but I think he's got a point

Not to worry, I'm not saying that he's wrong to want what he wants --and I agree, these bridges would look out of place on a different guitar. I'm just pointing out that it seems pretty obvious that these two bridges are specifically designed for the strat and tele crowd, not for drop-top enthusiasts. Which is why I found the complaint a little unfair. For what they are, and from the pics I've seen, they look every bit as well-built as the originals or any other aftermarket I've seen. But hey, I'm not trying to transform myself into a shill for this company! Personally, I'd prefer if the tele plate had the lip like a classic tele plate does, but that's a personal thing and I can see why it was easier for them to go with the flat plate.

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My post wasn't intended as a flame. My coments were regaurding the sheetmetal look, not the fit and finish. If you read my post again with that in mind you will under stand what I was trying to say. Sorry if it came off as being mean. It would be a great replacement for a sheet metal style bridge,like I allready tried to say. Peace, Dave

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