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Roman's 1500 G neck mod?


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good day/night people of PG Forum.

does anyone know anything about Ed Roman's 1500 G neck modification, or something that is equivalent? from what i know, it is a blend of oils and use of fine sand papers that apparently keeps the pores open but protected, maximizing tone. from what i have read on this topic, it/should sound/s good, and if possible, i would like to do something equivalent when i build my neck - i don't want no polyurethane finish neck. can anyone give me ideas or suggestions or fine tune the process on how to perform something that is equivalent of such a neck modification?

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Taken from Ernieball.com

Since the neck is unfinished, it is more susceptible to humidity changes. A very infrequent dose of gunstock oil will help to keep the neck maintained; we recommend Birchwood-Casey Tru-Oil, but any good quality gunstock oil will work. Use a small amount, leave it on for 5 minutes, then wipe it off with a paper towel. After that, apply Birchwood-Casey Tru-Wax. Be sure to douse the paper towel with water before disposing of it! Read the wax and oil manufacturer's instructions regarding disposal of these used paper towels.

Birchwood-Casey products are available at most sporting goods or gun stores. Their web address is http://www.birchwood-casey.com.

Rosewood fingerboards should not be treated with the gunstock oil; instead they should be treated with a high grade of lemon oil. Again, for cleaning, try using the same high grade of lemon oil to clean the entire neck, both maple and rosewood fretboards. If the neck is very dirty, you can use a small amount of Murphy's Oil Soap, diluted 3:1 to clean it. Keep in mind that if the dirt has gotten into the wood, it cannot be removed except by sanding it down, which we do not recommend. It is better to keep it clean in the first place. Washing your hands first helps! On an unfinished neck, some discoloration after many hours of playing is normal. Be sure to follow all of the manufacturers recommended safety precautions when using any of these oils or waxes.

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I just sanded my neck with 120 grit get alll the clear coat junk off, rounded a couple of the edges to make the neck a bit more to my liking and then sanded it to 600 grit, the whole idea of the sanding "trick" is to reduce friction on your thumb, high gloss on a neck as been sanded and then buffed till it's a mirror (perfectly smooth), where as satin finishes on some fenders were only sanded with lower grit papers and left that way (kinda dull looking), by leaving the neck sanded to 600 grit (or what have you) it's less smooth so you're decresing the surface area that you're thumb actually comes into contact with and therefore you're hand can move more easily cause of the reduced friction.

well at least that's how it made sense in my mind B)

I used double boiled linseed oil, is that stuff about the same?? it goes on exactly as described above, (apply with rag, wait 5 mins then wipe off excess, repeat till happy).. the only thing about the oil i used, it was sticky till about a month later, but i may have waited to long to wipe off the excess, and kinda smellls like lobsters :D but once it finaly dried it felt great :D :D

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on my wolfgang, i use lemon oil. this is what the peavey custom shop guy told me to use. apparently it is less dyeing than other types of oils. any oil will leave the maple a little darker every time you oil it. i don't use wax, but every 6 months or so i re oil. works great, nothin beats an unfinished neck, IMHO. :D

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