Go Bar Frame

[billsterl]

I want to build a go bar frame with plywood and black pipe. I have seen a couple but I can't really figure out how they are put together? Anyone done this lately. I assume the top and bottom decks are fixed and the center one moves up and down. I was thinking 30" square? Thanks in advance!

[Mattia]

All you need is two firmly fixed surfaces the right distance apart. My current deck is my workbench and the shelf that's firmly affixed above it. Nothing else needed.

[ryanb]

...With the key words there being "the right distance apart". Since the "right distance" often changes from one operation or build to another, it is a good idea to have some means of varying the distance -- which could be as simple as spacers or more complex like adjustable surfaces. Many designs use threaded rods and nuts for height adjustment. There are lots of ways to do it.

[Mr. Preston Swift]

i work with acoustics alot and am going to start a build soon but i'd like to know if these are 100% nessesary in the build.

[fryovanni]

i work with acoustics alot and am going to start a build soon but i'd like to know if these are 100% nessesary in the build.

Not if you use a vaccume clamping fixture.

You need to be able to apply even firm pressure. That is all. Go bars are a simple solution. As Mattia mentioned all you need is two solid surfaces. As Ryan mentioned you also need to get the distance correct so you get the right pressure. Using a desk or shelf as Mattia uses is cool. You just stack or place the item to be clamped at the right height. Simple and effective.

Peace,Rich

[Mattia]

Vacuum is complicated, relatively expensive to set up, hi-tech solution that is cool, but slightly overkill. The only reason I'm considering it is for workholding, maybe bridge gluing; I doubt I'd waste the space required for a vacuum brace clamping jig with the space at a premium as it is.

Go-bars are cheap, take up no space at all (my deck is a workbench when not in use), work great for all sorts of clamping tasks (bracing and gluing top and back to rims sprind to mind directly), and did I mention cheap? Distances are easy to 'get right', just make sure your bars are 1 to 1.5" longer than the distance between the top of the deck and whatever it is you're clamping down. You can always make them a little short, and adjust with 'shims' (ie, spare square of ply or MDF) to raise or lower whatever it is you're clamping.

[Setch]

You can also make two sets of bars - one for for clamping bracing, and one about 3.5" shorter for clamping backs and tops whilst in the form. This is much simpler than making an adjustable top surface.

[Mattia]

well, yes, that's mostly what I've done, mind you. But sometimes what you're clamping is a little smaller than usual, or a little taller, and a small shim solves that problem nice and easy. My current deck is much taller than my old deck, so I'm building a 5" raised platform (actually a combined router/thicknessing/neck angle jig when not in go-bar service) to raise it up. Go-bars are cheap, yes, but I've already got 45, don't want to buy a bunch more stock if I don't have to

[billsterl]

well, yes, that's mostly what I've done, mind you. But sometimes what you're clamping is a little smaller than usual, or a little taller, and a small shim solves that problem nice and easy. My current deck is much taller than my old deck, so I'm building a 5" raised platform (actually a combined router/thicknessing/neck angle jig when not in go-bar service) to raise it up. Go-bars are cheap, yes, but I've already got 45, don't want to buy a bunch more stock if I don't have to

Do you guys make you bars or by fiberglass ones? I was thinking of white ash milled to- what dimensions?

[Mattia]

I have fibreglass ones, 5mm (3/16"), kite stores also sell the handy rubber nibs for the tips. As far as wood ones go, try 1/2" x 1/4", seems to be bandied about regularly. Also register at MIMF.com and read up on the various discussions there. Way more info that here in terms of acoustic builds, tools, etc.

[GoodWood]

I will try using 1/2 " thread rod for adjustability. Not there quite yet. Got fiberglass rods off ebay, shorter than ash. If you use pipe usually home depo will thread it for free, but you are talking like 3" or more thats alot.

[ryanb]

Maybe I am reading your post wrong, but you can't use threaded pipe for adjustability. Pipe thread is a tapered thread, not a straight thread like threaded rod.

[GoodWood]

Maybe I am reading your post wrong, but you can't use threaded pipe for adjustability. Pipe thread is a tapered thread, not a straight thread like threaded rod.

Ohhhhhh....Ive seen adjustable gobar trays with pipe thread stickin out, or maybe it was Thread rod????. Google go bar and look around. Im builidng mine a bit lighter than some, because I dont mind not gluing all at once. Get the X braces in, soyou have an anchor, etc.

[fryovanni]

Maybe I am reading your post wrong, but you can't use threaded pipe for adjustability. Pipe thread is a tapered thread, not a straight thread like threaded rod.

Ohhhhhh....Ive seen adjustable gobar trays with pipe thread stickin out, or maybe it was Thread rod????. Google go bar and look around. Im builidng mine a bit lighter than some, because I dont mind not gluing all at once. Get the X braces in, soyou have an anchor, etc.

http://www.brouelette.com/blog/gobar.jpg

Just a heads up. You are not supposed to hot link to other peoples site. Appologies if you are Greg Brouelette.

Peace,Rich