Routing Figured Maple

[daveq]

When I go to cut out the body cavities, is there anything I can do to prevent/minimize chip-out on the maple top? Would taping the area help? How about climb-milling, would that help?

I have read somewhere that damping it with a little water can also help prevent chip-out but I'm a little nervous about doing that.

[Scott Rosenberger]

Tape, Use a downcut bit, make sure you use sharp bits. I Generally rout the outside a little larger than the actual size and sand to final size when using figured wood just incase there's tearout. For interior cavities I'd consider making the cavities smaller and using a sharp Chisel and small sanding drums to get them done neatly

[daveq]

Thanks Scott.

[krazyderek]

i never understood how you could use spiral bits with a template (whic h i try to always use) without owning a pin router

[Scott Rosenberger]

i never understood how you could use spiral bits with a template (whic h i try to always use) without owning a pin router

Use a Collar on your hand router to follow the template. I will end up slightly smaller so if you use it for say, a neck pocket you'll have to sand to final size, whick is good because we like tight fitting neck pockets don't we?

[krazyderek]

i suppose, but for now i think scoring it with a exacto knife, the tape, and a sharp router bit will do fine for me.

[Drak]

I have never used water, that sounds like an old wives tale or something...

A high-quality (no cheap stuff) router bit is all that's really needed.

To minimize any chance of tearout, start your 'hogging out' route in the middle, and 'shave' your way to the outside edges.

Most router bits I buy are around $25.00, give or take.

If you're buying an $8.00 router bit, you're buying the (cheap) wrong one!

[mullmuzzler]

krazyderek should change his title to "certified bit" instead cause he loves his bits.

just kiddin'

mullmuzzler | OSSMT

[krazyderek]

i hope i'm not turning into ed roman

[daveq]

I have never used water, that sounds like an old wives tale or something

I don't think so, it was in a woodworkers magazine written by one of the magazine's writers. I still don't think I want to try it though.

I think I'm going to route on the inside (1/8" less than needed) and take it from there. Thanks for the info.

[Devon Headen]

ok...time for a REALLY dumb question, so brace yourselves. I have absolutely NO experience with routing (other than on the edge of laminate countertops ). Anyway, my dad has a Rotozip router, in addition to the one he uses for counters. Anyway, looking at it is made for like cutting wood, or drywall, or anything all the way through. Main point is that these bits are skinny, and I don't see how you go about cutting cavities for pickups/control cavity with them. So I've been looking on the net and can't find any pics of someone actually routing. Even on the StewMac site, they sell Dremel tools, but they don't mention routing cavities, just like places for the frets, etc. What kind of tool do you need for this if not like what I have, and how do you go about the actual routing.

Thanks again

[daveq]

You can use one of those but I think most people use either a standard router or a plunge router. I prefer the plunge router myself. There are a slew of choices for router bits (which are normally wider than the ones you mentioned). For cavities, use a pattern cutting bit. It has a bearing on the part of the bit closest to the top or closest to the router instead of at the bottom or away from the router.

If you do a search on router bits, you should see what I'm talking about. If you need more info, just ask. There's tons of uses for them in guitar building. Once you get used to it, you'll love it. If you get one, practice on scrap until you feel comfortable with it.

[daveq]

Here's one of stewmac's better bits for routing cavities:

Pattern Bit

[Devon Headen]

dag...you're fast. What are those other routers like in comparison to the one I have? Plunge or standard. I think what I have might be "standard"...I'll see if I can find a pic later...I gotta run right now though. Thanks for the help

[westhemann]

if you have to use the tool you mention,the cutting bit is totally inadequate...they make actual router bits for those tools

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Dremel_r...Cutter_Bit.html

[daveq]

Here's something similar to what I have. It might confuse you but it's a fixed base router but comes with a plunge base to turn it into a plunge router. The plunge part just means that you can hold it over the piece, and push the bit down into it without having to hold the entire weight of the router while it is spinning. Yes, there are tricks to using a fixed base router but I prefer the plunge type.

Router

I think the one you are talking about is a rotary tool like a Dremel, right? They can be used for routing cavities, but it just takes more time.

[Devon Headen]

Here's the instruction manual fronts for the tool I have. I'm looking at the digital dremel tool on stewmac. What do ya'll think? You can use that for routing cavities right? It'd be stupid if it was on StewMac and you couldn't . Also, the instructions for the one I have says only to use rotozip attatchments on it...could I use other ones? Like for Dremel?

Thanks