Binding & Accent Line Question

[guitar2005]

I'm making a cocobolo fretboard that will be bound with cocobolo and a thin maple veneer (1/32) as an accent line between the binding and the fretboard.

I about to glue the maple to the cocobolo binding strip but I'm not sure as to what kind of glue to use. With Yellow glue, I'm worried that too much will ooze out and that it'll be a real b*tch to clean out. Would CA be a good idea?

Thanks

[fryovanni]

CA will soak into the maple and may give you an uneven look if you don't make sure it is evenly soaked. Wood glue is not too bad as far as scraping clean, just don't over do it with the glue and wipe it before it is dry(then you will only have little left to scrape). I make sure to seal wood with shellac before I use it for attaching binding or rosettes with CA(exposed end grain really allows it to wick in quickly). Some people grain fill with CA so you can certainly get an even coat of it, but be sure you do because it will discolor the wood and leave it blotchy if you don't.

Peace,Rich

[guitar2005]

CA will soak into the maple and may give you an uneven look if you don't make sure it is evenly soaked. Wood glue is not too bad as far as scraping clean, just don't over do it with the glue and wipe it before it is dry(then you will only have little left to scrape). I make sure to seal wood with shellac before I use it for attaching binding or rosettes with CA(exposed end grain really allows it to wick in quickly). Some people grain fill with CA so you can certainly get an even coat of it, but be sure you do because it will discolor the wood and leave it blotchy if you don't.

Peace,Rich

Ok, but once everything is clamped, its hard to clean before the yellow glue dries I'm dealing with a 1/4" high piece of cocobolo and 1/8" thick.

With CA, I'm concerned about working time.

[erikbojerik]

I've glued wood binding strips together with CA. Yeah you have to work somewhat quickly, but it won't necessarily set up in seconds. Do one side of the board at a time and leave it clamped for a half hour or so before doing the other side.

[fryovanni]

CA will soak into the maple and may give you an uneven look if you don't make sure it is evenly soaked. Wood glue is not too bad as far as scraping clean, just don't over do it with the glue and wipe it before it is dry(then you will only have little left to scrape). I make sure to seal wood with shellac before I use it for attaching binding or rosettes with CA(exposed end grain really allows it to wick in quickly). Some people grain fill with CA so you can certainly get an even coat of it, but be sure you do because it will discolor the wood and leave it blotchy if you don't.

Peace,Rich

Ok, but once everything is clamped, its hard to clean before the yellow glue dries I'm dealing with a 1/4" high piece of cocobolo and 1/8" thick.

With CA, I'm concerned about working time.

As Erik mentioned, CA when used a little heavier will not dry nearly as quickly as a tiny amount(working time is greatly extended). I have made many binding strips with .02"-.06" lams using titebond. I definately prefer this method for body binding if I am using wood(so FWIW it is totally workable, and seems to keep a little more flexability in the binding). If you prefer CA it is cool. I am not sure how you are clamping, but be mindful of the CA(if a little contacts your clamps it may set quickly). You have some good options. I would recommend you try a couple full test runs(clamps and material) to see how your methods work for you.

Good luck!

Rich

[Setch]

I make up my wooden binding/purfling with titebond. You don't need much, and clean up is accomplished with a scraper, at the same time as scraping the binding pieces flush with the fretboard.

For a single maple line bewteen the fretboard and binding, I glue the maple to the fretboard, and then glue the binding on afterwards. You don't need to mitre the maple line when it's that small - I just butt joint it, and it's impossible to tell.

Here's an example:

[guitar2005]

I make up my wooden binding/purfling with titebond. You don't need much, and clean up is accomplished with a scraper, at the same time as scraping the binding pieces flush with the fretboard.

For a single maple line bewteen the fretboard and binding, I glue the maple to the fretboard, and then glue the binding on afterwards. You don't need to mitre the maple line when it's that small - I just butt joint it, and it's impossible to tell.

Here's an example:

Wow! Very nice. That's exactly what I'm trying to achieve. Yeah... That's one of the option I was contemplating: Glue the maple veneer to the fretboard first.

[fryovanni]

This was done with Titebond on the Snakewood and fine line fiber, and epoxy for the Paua.

Forgive me(well or my camera) for taking a lousy picture. I have never got the hang of photography.

Peace,Rich

Edited April 9, 2007 by fryovanni