ibanez_crazy Posted April 13, 2007 Report Share Posted April 13, 2007 Just out of curiousity, when doing a semi-hollow(no f holes) is there a "correct" way of doing it? How much of an edge should be left to glue on? 2 big chambers, or multiple smaller chambers? Can/should you chamber under the path of the strings, or leave as much wood there for strength/stability? Anything else I am missing? Im in the planning stages, so no wood has even been cut,its just sitting there calling my name. Thanx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnewman Posted April 13, 2007 Report Share Posted April 13, 2007 (edited) It's been done pretty much every way anyone has ever thought of. FYI, semihollow does not mean no f-holes. A semihollowbody guitar will have some connection between the back and top of the guitar beyond just the sides, for example the Gibson ES-335, which has a block of wood between the back and top under the bridge. A hollowbody guitar will not have any connection other than the sides - like a Gretsch archtop (at least I think most of the Gretsches are full hollowbodies). You'll find people with a solid area down the whole center of the guitar and two chambers, or five chambers, or fifty chambers. You'll find people with a solid area just under the bridge, and one chamber, or two, or five, or fifty. You'll find people with a braced, arched top and no connection at all. You'll find people with evenly distributed chambers through the whole guitar. You just have to make sure that your top is strong enough if you don't have a block under the bridge. Edited April 13, 2007 by jnewman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibanez_crazy Posted April 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2007 I was thinking about a recessed TOM with string thru ferruls, so Im probably gonna keep the whole center section just for strength. I just wanted to make sure there are no steadfast rules concerning edge width, or chambered area. I know a semi-hollowbody dosent have to have f-holes, just wanted to mention this guitar wont. Thats one of the decisions that have been made for sure. The only other sure things are scale length, wood selection, and general body shape. As much as I love my ES330, I probably wouldnt ever build a full hollowbody for myself. I feel like I have to be gentile with that one, and I can get rowdy while playing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
low end fuzz Posted April 13, 2007 Report Share Posted April 13, 2007 putting a top over a single drill hole could be considered a semi-hollow; the acoustic section prolly holds any question you could think of Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted April 13, 2007 Report Share Posted April 13, 2007 Giving yourself 1/2"-5/8"(commonly kerfing for acoustics would be about 1/2" worth of surface) around the edges is good for glue(and some router breathing room). If you are using a center block(like a 335) then you have your strength there. The top and back plate thickness can be anywhere from about 1/8" to 1/2"(just depends on what you want it to do). An Archtop or Acoustic is going to have plates that are slightly less than 1/8-3/16" depending(so strength should not be an issue). Really you should think about what your motivation for hollowing it is. Some are really wanting to get different resonant qualities and some just want a lighter guitar. Base your design around your needs and have fun with it! Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibanez_crazy Posted April 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2007 I really dont have any real reasons for doing it other than experimentation, and a lighter guitar. I could be building a real nightmare for feedback....wont know till its done. I actually first thought about it when I went to my local hardwood supplier, and he didnt have anything as thick as I was looking for. I bought 2 pieces that were 1.75 thick together, and now I have the option of doing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteBuchan Posted April 13, 2007 Report Share Posted April 13, 2007 Feedback shouldn't be an issue unless you go for a complete hollow, as in no centre block under the bridge. Certainly my hollow tele has no issues. It, like yours, has no f-holes and i have some pretty hot pickups in there (10.5k fender texas specials). I left 15mm around the edge for gluing, and routed the top and bottom to be 5mm thick which I find to be perfectly strong. I really like the fullness of the hollowed tone so my current project is a hollow 12 string les paul. Again I left 15mm for gluing round the edges, but this time routed the top and bottom to 4mm thick. As for number of chambers, the tele had one big one on the left, and a small one between the bridge and the strap button at the bridge end. I didn't put one on the right hand side for some reason? Can't remember why?! The les paul however has a lerge chamber either side. Hope that's of help... Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibanez_crazy Posted April 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2007 Sounds good, Just the kind of stuf I was lookin for. Thanks to all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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