How Do You Create Chambers In A Body Blank?

[docbass]

I have a solid body blank, alder, 1.75", that I want to chamber and finish with a flame maple top. How do you experienced chaps like to hollow out such a piece? Routers? Forstner bits? Combination of both?

I did a search and came up dry, but know you folks have some preferred methods!

[Bainzy]

I have a solid body blank, alder, 1.75", that I want to chamber and finish with a flame maple top. How do you experienced chaps like to hollow out such a piece? Routers? Forstner bits? Combination of both?

I did a search and came up dry, but know you folks have some preferred methods!

Personally, my preferred method is to make a template of the outline of the body shape, and cut out the chamber shapes carefully into that. Cut out the body shape from the blank, place the template over it, draw around the chamber holes and take it off again. Hock out most of the wood with forstner bits, then put the template back on and use a router with a template follower bit to clean up the chambers.

[marksound]

I have a solid body blank, alder, 1.75", that I want to chamber and finish with a flame maple top. How do you experienced chaps like to hollow out such a piece? Routers? Forstner bits? Combination of both?

I did a search and came up dry, but know you folks have some preferred methods!

What?

[docbass]

What?

How much does he charge?

Edited May 1, 2007 by docbass

[j. pierce]

Easiest way, and one of my favorites, is to use a cap on the back of the instrument as well - this can be resawn off the blank if you have the capabilities, allowing you to keep the all-one-piece look, or you can add a veneer in there for a nice accent line, or use wood to match the top. Either way, this way you can just use a saw to cut the chambers through the entire body. (and then you don't make sawdust out of all the wood from the chambers, so you can use it for something else) then glue the back cap on, and you're all set. This method allows you to get the oh-so-cool looking matching cavity covers as well.

Using one piece, I usually hog out the insides with a forstner bit and then clean up with a router as described by the posters above me.

[Hector]

Using one piece, I usually hog out the insides with a forstner bit and then clean up with a router as described by the posters above me.

+1

[Setch]

As others have said, hog the cavity out with a forstner bit, then clean up with a router. You can freehand it for one off designs, or use a template for a cleaner look.

[docbass]

Easiest way, and one of my favorites, is to use a cap on the back of the instrument as well - this can be resawn off the blank if you have the capabilities, allowing you to keep the all-one-piece look, or you can add a veneer in there for a nice accent line, or use wood to match the top. Either way, this way you can just use a saw to cut the chambers through the entire body. (and then you don't make sawdust out of all the wood from the chambers, so you can use it for something else) then glue the back cap on, and you're all set. This method allows you to get the oh-so-cool looking matching cavity covers as well.

Using one piece, I usually hog out the insides with a forstner bit and then clean up with a router as described by the posters above me.

Wow, what a neat idea! I'll have to give that some thought. My saws aren't sufficient to cut the back off but I like the idea of a matching piece on the back.

[ToneMonkey]

Remember when you're drilling that the forstner bit has a spike in the middle that sticks out further than the main part of the bit. Be careful not to drill too far down as you'll stick the spike through the otherside.

Not that I'm stupid enough to ever do this

[docbass]

As others have said, hog the cavity out with a forstner bit, then clean up with a router. You can freehand it for one off designs, or use a template for a cleaner look.

Thanks, great pictures. They really help visual learners like me!!

[Setch]

You like? Have another one

Here's the same set of bodies all cleaned up after using the router and template:

[docbass]

You like? Have another one

Here's the same set of bodies all cleaned up after using the router and template:

Yes, I like! They are beautiful for sure. A picture really does say a thousand words!

[MiKro]

>SNIP<

Not that I'm stupid enough to ever do this

Uh!!!!! Something tells me that you did? LMAO!!!! No problem we've all been there!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!ROTFLAMO!!!!!!!!!!Yep that little center TIT will get if ya don't think about it. Been there done that many years ago' LOL!!!!

MK

Edited May 3, 2007 by MiKro

[biliousfrog]

Remember when you're drilling that the forstner bit has a spike in the middle that sticks out further than the main part of the bit. Be careful not to drill too far down as you'll stick the spike through the otherside.

Also remember to remove the bit completely from the wood before trying to move to the next hole...that little spike likes to catch the template & pull you in.

apparently

[docbass]

Remember when you're drilling that the forstner bit has a spike in the middle that sticks out further than the main part of the bit. Be careful not to drill too far down as you'll stick the spike through the otherside.

Also remember to remove the bit completely from the wood before trying to move to the next hole...that little spike likes to catch the template & pull you in.

apparently

Thanks for the tips and the warnings! I've had my share of mishaps, mostly due to my own lapses of taking care while working on a project. I'm getting better. Making the same replacement part 3 times for a bass sure makes you more skilled and careful!!!!!