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Posted

Can anyone give me some advice on using a palm router vs. a standard fixed or plunge router.

I will only be working on a couple of projects a year, and was wondering wether the palm router

would be okay for solid body electric guitar. Are they strong enough for routering pick-up and neck

pockets, or should I stick with a regular router.

Posted
Can anyone give me some advice on using a palm router vs. a standard fixed or plunge router.

I will only be working on a couple of projects a year, and was wondering wether the palm router

would be okay for solid body electric guitar. Are they strong enough for routering pick-up and neck

pockets, or should I stick with a regular router.

If by 'palm router' you mean a laminate trimmer like the Bosch Colt or the Porter Cable 310 or 7310, then yes, it's powerful enough for neck pockets, pickup cavities, truss rod channels and the like, but it's underpowered/maybe only just strong enough for template routing entire bodies and running larger template bits and the like. For that, you're better off getting a proper, larger router, like a Porter Cable 690.

I only build 2, 3 guitars per year tops at this moment in time, but I've still got two routers (Bosch plunge, PC 690 fixed base and a PC 310 lam trim), all of which get used frequently. And I'm planning on buying at least one more to mount permanently in the table.

For a solidbody, I recommend a fixed base 690, plunge optional (or get the kit with both bases). For acoustic guitar building, you're better off with a 310/laminate trimmer.

Posted

Palm routers/laminate trimmers often don't adjust their depth quite as precisely. They have smaller bases, which make them a little less stable. The biggest problem for a lot of people, though, is that they can't really use large-diameter router bits. For one thing, they don't have enough power, and for another thing, I don't know of one off the top of my head which has a 1/2" collet, they all just have 1/4" collets.

Posted

i have a palm router, and it has enough power to do thinner bodies (which i prefer anyways, anything under 1 1/2 inches.) i wouldn't try any thicker, though, which can be a hinderance.

acutally, i did manage to cut a 2" slab of basswood, but that hardly counts.

Posted

I actually have two full sized routers. One is table mounted, and the other for free hand. Its really nice having the option of using one with a table, although owning both isnt entirely necessary. I would just go for the full sized one if you can, and you can often buy them in packages with a table. That would be your best bet

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