rhoads56 Posted June 5, 2007 Report Share Posted June 5, 2007 Ok, so you should now be able to work out the neck angle to the body, headstock angle (by using the same theory), etc etc, because of THIS THREAD Scarf joint or single piece neck with headstock angle. Doesnt matter, just use this same technique for both types of necks. Mark out the angle for the headstock/scarf joint, and cut it roughly to suit with a bandsaw or handsaw. KEEP THE OFFCUT! Using a simular idea as THIS THREAD (but a different method), ive made a block which fits over the end of my neck blanks. I cut my necks blanks to one of three different sizes (through, set or bolt-on), so i have one block for each. If you look carefully, each side of the block (either side of the rebated section) is a different length... one for a shallow headstock angle, one for a steeper headstock angle. The shallow angle is for non floyd style guitars, the steeper one suits a floyd rose locking nut angle. Angle is irrelevant for this thread, and something you have to work out for yourself. Run the blank over the cutter head, and it trims it perfectly. Careful it is cutting square to the face of the neck blank. A nice tight rebate block (which i screw to the end with two screws) helps with this. NOTE: ive pulled the safety guard back to allow you a little more clarity on what is happening. DONT exposure yourself to this much uncovered blade, its deadly Trim the blank down to the line (you drew this earlier before rough cutting to size remember) by running it over the cutter head on your jointer. You'll need to run it over the cutter a few times. I set my blades for a maximum cut of 0.5mm, often less. Thats all you need to know for standard one piece necks with a headstock angle... ... but if you are scarf jointing on a headstock.... ... then drill a hole towards the end of the headstock piece (no pic sorry) and another in the angled section of the neck blank. Be sure to locate the hole exactly where the truss rod is located so it is routed away later. ALSO, make sure the hole is no deeper than the truss rod rout. If you have any tear out, or lifting of grain, just shave it down with a sharp chisel. Use a screw to screw the headstock on. Notice how ive used a centre line to aid in my location of the holes. It doesnt have to be in the centre, as this one isnt, but i do t so i have a near consistant overhang to one side of the headstock (eg: always the same amount of waste on the bass side). Note, we havent used any glue yet, and here is the joint from the back... The screw is not there to help join the two pieces. It is purely to assist in gluing up. With the headstock angle, the glue will allow the two pieces of timber to slide out of alignment when being clamped. So, to make it easier, the screw stops that sliding motion. Thats all it does. Quick and easy. Glue the two surfaces... ... making sure you rub the two pieces together to spread the glue, and remove any air from the joint. Your joints will be much stronger, and less noticible if you rub them together before clamping. Try it.... just try pulling the parts appart once they have been rubbed together... Clamp the pieces together, using the off cut from when we cut the waste of the headstock angle off (so the clamps are perpendicular to the headstock face/join), and another flat scrap for the headstock face. Before you know it, you'll be gluing up 15 necks at a time. Anyone care for a flying v?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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