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Set Neck Questtion


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I am planning a set neck LP, have been doing my homework.

I found a Blog Page by 'Setch'.

From what I can tell instead of using a some type of angle guide to cut the mortise angle he angles the top first then goes by the top angle for cutting the mortise.

So my questions are:

Is that just how I am seeing this and is this way a better way of doing it.

Thanks!!

.

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I assume you are referring to this: http://www.setchellguitars.co.uk/ant/blog/?page_id=10

You are correct. First he routed the necessary neck angle into the top and then used it as a guide to route the angle in the neck pocket.

CMA

Yep that's the page.

I actually built a router stand similar to what he posted on his tools page for removing the meat for the carved top. Need to find some scrapes to practice on.

Thanks!!

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Another thing.

I notice that he doesn't cut out the mortise till after the top is carved.

Is that to prevent any tear out around the mortise when removing the bulk of the carve with a router?

Would hollowing the back wood out more then in this blog make the guitar unbalanced?

Edited by themortarman
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Sorry, I don't understand the question!

The LP is built used a traditional Gibson style neck joint, with a straight tenon and angled mortice. This is how Gibson have been making Les Paul's since the 50's.

Are you thinking of the difference between a dovetail and a spanish heel on acoustic guitars?

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Ah - now I get you.

Yep, I prefer to use a scarf joint rather than a one piece neck. There are millions of very fine guitars out there with 1 piece necks, and 1 piece necks look very pretty, but I totted up pros and cons, and decided scarfs were better.

They're more economical, stronger, and for me (a builder with only a very tiny bandsaw) they're faster to make.

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Thanks!!

When you planed the angle for the neck angle I take that you carry that angle all the way across the width of the body.

Another thing,

I was hoping to use .25" binding all the way around even where the horn turns in to where it meets the neck.

Is that just a matter of spending some extra time carving a transitional point in that area?

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Got a chance to test out my own "Sawdust Generator". Worked like a charm I can see where I could use it to route out the binding and everything.

With a little modification I was able to run a binding channel perfectly on a piece of scrap with just using the adjustable stop. No bushing bit.

Now the only problem I may run in to is I my have a issue turning around the cut out. Instead of the board as the stop I may have to align some type of pin, offset from the bit, on floor of the "Sawdust generator"

Thanks so much, Setch!!!

Here's a test block, I have a curved piece that worked just a well.

binding%20test.jpg

Edited by themortarman
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Should I be concerned that the mahogany back is closer to 1 5/8" then 1 3/4"? The top is a full 3/4"

My boards were well over 2.5", like a dummy I tried to remove the bulk with my new the me band saw that I have very little experience with

They first board I got wobble cut so when I ran it in my thickness jig it was under 1 3/4" then add some time on the belt sander.

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I'm gonna have a go at doing this on the next few LP's I build by trying to plane the neck angle into the front of the maple top with a hand plane, then using that as a base for the router like Setch did. It shouldn't be too hard as it isn't a surface that requires a large plane to make it accurate, anything from a #3 to #4 1/2 should easily do the job. I'll report back on my findings once its done.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Did you manage to actually use 0.25" thick binding? This is my first read of the thread, and IMO that is way too thick.

Looks like on the photo you have a standard binding thickess (0.06 or 0.09).

Oh no!

Sorry I meant .25" tall not thick. It's .60" thick Ivoroid.

Edited by themortarman
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