jammy Posted June 21, 2007 Report Share Posted June 21, 2007 I've attached the neck and fretboard this week, and will finish work on the headstock soon. It's coming along Sorry, the pictures aren't fantastic http://www.darkmatterguitars.com/siteimage...g/210607/01.jpg http://www.darkmatterguitars.com/siteimage...g/210607/03.jpg http://www.darkmatterguitars.com/siteimage...g/210607/04.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted June 21, 2007 Report Share Posted June 21, 2007 (edited) Looks very nice! I like the inlays. What's the back & side wood? Compared with your other acoustics, how did you change up the bracing for 7?? Edited June 21, 2007 by erikbojerik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jammy Posted June 21, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2007 Thanks The back and side wood is an especially nice bit of European walnut. The bracing's somewhat of a difficult one, because of the fanned frets (and therefore angled bridge/bridgeplate) the bracing is of a strange pattern to start off with as you can see in the picture below (an in-progress picture of the soundboard). But as a general rule, it was left a little stiffer than normal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim_ado Posted June 21, 2007 Report Share Posted June 21, 2007 dude that is soooo cool....that is all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bertbart Posted June 21, 2007 Report Share Posted June 21, 2007 Really nice looking work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted June 21, 2007 Report Share Posted June 21, 2007 The pictures may not be amazing, but the guitar is! I've liked that egg shaped rosette since I first saw it. I can't wait to see this one done The position markers are especially nice too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted June 21, 2007 Report Share Posted June 21, 2007 Looks great! Did you use your ladder(lower bout) and X (upper bout) on this one? I remember you were talking about using that pattern. The rosette does look Classy! Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted June 21, 2007 Report Share Posted June 21, 2007 Very, very nice.... what are the two scale lengths, if you don't mind my asking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim_ado Posted June 22, 2007 Report Share Posted June 22, 2007 i was under the impression the scale lenghts were the same u just tilled the bridge and nut yes?..no? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted June 22, 2007 Report Share Posted June 22, 2007 No. The low E (in this case, low B I guess!) and high E are different scale lengths-- consequently, each and every string is a different scale length; though, the above poster is after the 2 outside scale lengths as a frame of reference for the fanned frets. Lookin' good so far! I don't have the guts to even dream about an acoustic build yet... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim_ado Posted June 22, 2007 Report Share Posted June 22, 2007 yeah i thought as much just after i posted i guess u could to it the way i said but then i would just be angled frets but fanned frets start one way sort of even out then go the other the farther u get down the neck make sense???am i right??? haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted June 22, 2007 Report Share Posted June 22, 2007 Yup. If you Google or forum search, there's a lot out there about fanned frets. Novak (Novax?) has a particular system of fanning that he has patented, though you can't patent fanning in general. You select your 2 'outside string' scale lenths, decide which fret will be the perpendicular one as a reference point, (it'll affect the degree to which frets are fanned in the open vs. high frets), and connect the dots from there. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jammy Posted June 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2007 Thanks guys The back bracing pattern is a weird one on this, but it seems to have worked really nicely As for the scale lengths, it's 29" on the bass side and 25.5" on the treble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted June 22, 2007 Report Share Posted June 22, 2007 (edited) Novak (Novax?) has a particular system of fanning that he has patented, though you can't patent fanning in general. As I understand it, said patent has now expired. And his system (all frets converge to a single point in space) resulted in incorrect intonation anyway. I did the math awhile back, and IIRC it works only if your strings are parallel i.e. no neck taper. Otherwise all bets (or notes..) are off. The "inner & outer scale lengths & connect the dots" method works just fine (and got you out of Novak's $75 license fee scam). Jammy, have you ever thought about using a fabric tape for the sides, rather than wood braces? Edited June 22, 2007 by erikbojerik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jammy Posted June 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2007 Some pictures from a couple of days ago... click click Some new pictures click click click Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WAK Guitars Posted June 26, 2007 Report Share Posted June 26, 2007 I love this guitar! I'll be watching this one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted June 26, 2007 Report Share Posted June 26, 2007 That bracing pattern seems pretty cool. Using the X in the narrower upper bouts, and ladder in the wider lower bout area seems like a great approch. The ladders stronger cross grain stiffness should really help balance the backs stiffness nicely. It will be interesting to find out how it works after you play it a bit. Good thinkin . I was kinda curious about the heavier bracing down the center of the lower bout. What are you trying to achive with the heavier center brace down there? Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted June 26, 2007 Report Share Posted June 26, 2007 (edited) Very nice... how'd the scarf get cut and glued? Is it as 'simple' as cutting it at the appropriate angle (following the line of the zero fret)? Edited June 26, 2007 by Mattia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myka Guitars Posted June 26, 2007 Report Share Posted June 26, 2007 Jammy, I love the way you did the fret markers. What a cool bit of detail (in an incredibly detailed guitar). Nice work. I will be following this one to see how it turns out. I am especially interested in the tone with your back bracing methods. ~David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted June 26, 2007 Report Share Posted June 26, 2007 I also love those side markers. The offset square marker normally does nothing for me, but those are gorgeous, and the veneer flowing into the neck purling is a really lovely detail - top notch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted June 27, 2007 Report Share Posted June 27, 2007 Hey Jammy, FWIW I get to rub elbows every day with the woman who discovered Dark Matter. http://www.dtm.ciw.edu/content/view/122/168/ She is a huge advocate for women, so if you keep that company name you'd best be hiring some! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jammy Posted June 27, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2007 Thanks everyone! Wow - lots of questions! Back bracing: The reason the lower brace is there running along the centre of the top is to try and maintain it's dome shape. At that point the upper X can't really hold the radius any more, and that brace takes over. The scarf joint... Even easier that that to be honest! I did a straight scarf but with a reasonably thick neck blank, I then sanded the headstock face unevenly on my linisher to swing the break angle round to where I needed it. The headstock was then thicknessed on the pin router using it's front face as a reference. Hence the guitar's got a twisted headstock! erikbojerik: Interesting stuff indeed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted June 28, 2007 Report Share Posted June 28, 2007 Heh. That'd work! Other question: why the X in the upper bout? Contrary to Rich, I don't quite see the point to the intersection where it is; the rim's narrow around there, and will hold the shape, while the lower bout is the wide, usupported area where I locate my X-brace (ok, where I've located the one X-brace I've done). A double-X back (upper and lower) also appeals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myka Guitars Posted June 28, 2007 Report Share Posted June 28, 2007 A double-X back (upper and lower) also appeals. I concur. I also use a brace along the center seam for added support for the done. I am actually thinking about including some smaller braces in between the main braces in the next guitar. I think this will significantly stiffen the back in the center and then carve the braces thinner around the perimeter. I am going for the speaker come effect. Again, I will be very interested to hear how this sounds. I support any experimentation with bracing. My main 'theory' behind the double-x back bracing that I use was primarily aesthetic based on how cool the upper x looked through the soundhole. It was after I designed this that I realized the acoustic aspect of the double x system (and liked it even more). You just never know... ~David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted June 28, 2007 Report Share Posted June 28, 2007 Heh. That'd work! Other question: why the X in the upper bout? Contrary to Rich, I don't quite see the point to the intersection where it is; the rim's narrow around there, and will hold the shape, while the lower bout is the wide, usupported area where I locate my X-brace (ok, where I've located the one X-brace I've done). A double-X back (upper and lower) also appeals. Mattia, I was looking at the difference between X and Ladder as it relates to cross grain stiffness. Ladder in the wider lower bout area would improve cross grain stiffness over X in that area. I was not looking at holding the arch better or worse. As far as the location of the intersection in the upper bout area. I didn't really have a comment. I have never tried bracing this way, and will be curious to see how it works out for him. Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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