"spoke Wheel" Truss Rods

[mikevirok]

On my last few builds, I used the StewMac HotRod 1/8" allen wrench truss rods which feature the head-stock located adjustment socket. I found it quite annoying on my builds to accommodate for the movement of the allen wrench in a tight spot on the headstock, so I started looking into the spoke-wheel truss rods like those used on the Peavey Wolfgangs and the now HP models. I really want to use the spoke-wheel design truss rods, but I was wondering if anyone here has used them on their builds yet.

If there spoke-wheel truss rod builders out there on this forum, could you provide me with some photos of your finished builds?

[black_labb]

i havent sued one, but i can imagine using at the end of the fingerboard would make a very clean look. on my current build im having it at the body end of the neck under a minimal pickguard (mainly around the pups and the controls)

[mattharris75]

I haven't finished a build with one, but am in the midst of one now. Here's the thread, with plenty of pics: My Build

I chose to have a 22nd fret overhang at the end of the neck like a lot of fenders, which meant I had to notch the end of the fretboard. I think that looks neat, but some people don't like the way that looks, and of course you could always not have the overhang and have it stick out past the end of the neck. It seems to me they are easier to accomodate, not so 'common', and cool looking as well. Win-win situation.

[mikevirok]

Thanks Matt; I checked out the thread with your build and I am quite impressed with your ideas and design! I feel like there is someone else out there who loves natural woods in combination with original designs after seeing the new build. Was the truss rod's channel width the same for the entire length or did you have to appropriate with a wider route at the heel of the neck where the adjustment spoke begins to surface?

I also agree with the cleanliness and the uniqueness of the spoke-wheel truss rod. It just seems to be much less of a pain to adjust when setting up the guitar, as well as sleeker in terms of the headstock. I had a hard time keeping my headstocks cleanly shaped (since I was not using a truss-rod cover on 3 of the builds due to scooped head stocks and some over-cuts while routing) using the 1/8" allen style rods.

Could you take a few more pics (or if you already have them) and send 'em my way? I am curious as to the measurements and placement of the heel-area of the fretboard. Is there a sizable gap between the spoke-wheel and the edges of the fretboard cut-out? how about vertically? I know I'm bombarding you with questions, but I am really interested in finding out some answers from someone who was successful with using one.

[mattharris75]

Mike,

I'll answer as many of your questions as I can. I don't have any additional pictures with me at work, but will try to get some new ones in the next day or two.

The spoke wheel sits far enough below the fretboard that you don't really have to make the cutout much larger than the size of the wheel itself, because the wheel is located on the lower of the 2 rods in a double adjustable truss rod. It just needs to be large enough to get an adjustment tool down into the hole. I'll try to take a detail picture of this. You will also need to make sure that you set your route up so that the edge of the adjustment wheel itself has 1/16" of clearance from the end of the neck just so it doesn't bind on the neck. The shank for the wheel, however, is recessed into the neck. The route is virtually the same as a regular truss rod, the only difference is that you have to drill a 7/16" recess into the end of the neck ( about 1/2" deep) for the shank of the spoke wheel to sit. I just slid the truss rod back into place until the shank hit the wood and marked a circle around the edges of the shank, then inserted a small offcut piece into the end of the channel and marked the center point on that so i'd have something to drill into. Worked perfectly. If you were doing a neck through design you could just chizel the recess to the correct width to fit the shank. Fitting it was actually a lot simpler than I first thought it might be. Don't be afraid to give it a go, once you get it in hand you'll see how easy it is to accomodate.

Did that answer all your questions?

[mikevirok]

Sure did answer my questions Matt. Thanks a bunch! I was indeed toying around with the idea of a neck-through design that would possibly utilize this spoke-wheel truss rod. Once I order a couple from StewMac I'll most likely make a bunch of test routes on some scrap and see how it fits into the cavity like you mentioned. As you said, I'm sure once I get one in hand it'll be a whole new (and easier to figure out) game. I'd still gladly accept any pics (if you find any) just as a pre-reference before I get my own project up and running. Take your time though, and it's no big deal if there are none.

Thanks again!

[jmrentis]

I recently asked about these mainly because I wanted to know what benefits they had over an allen rod. One of the responses that someone mentioned was the increase of strength in the headstock area. Being that headstocks can break fairly easily, having to route out wood in this area is not all that great an idea. So, by going with the spoke you can take less wood from the headstock area and as you said not have to worry about the truss route or truss cover. Personally, I'm not a big fan of the spoke wheel look, not sure why really just something that has never appealed to me. I wish it was the opposite because of some of the benefits I've heard, though I can always use the allen rods in a different way I suppose. Plus, I enjoy buying shell truss covers from Andy DePaule they look so cool. lol. Anyway, good luck. J