darwinphilosophy Posted August 7, 2007 Report Share Posted August 7, 2007 I was thinking about putting a lacewood veneer on my next build and I was looking at pictures of it. Most looked nice but this picture really stuck out Picture. How do they get this finish? Did they just oil it and then lacquer it or was it stained and then sanded back? Also this other finish Picture 2 was it the same just with a different piece of lacewood that gave it a much different look? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted August 7, 2007 Report Share Posted August 7, 2007 Madness. Picture 1 looks like some sort of masking effect was used, actually. I say "looks like", fully admitting that I can't really tell what I'm seeing, and not being sure it would even work. But at any rate, it almost looks like squiggly masking was put on (with pinstriping tape or whatever), and then a satin coat was shot. So, the part that's masked off would stay shiny, and the rest would be matte, which looks different in reflected light. The net result when combined with the Lacewood itself is a 3D (4D, even! lol) look. Just a guess. And even if it's not correct, hey, that would be a pretty cool thing to try. The second one is more a standard finishing technique, no? Looks like there's some staining going on and then a high-gloss finish. The variations in the lacewood grain make it look mad-krazy where it's carved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted August 7, 2007 Report Share Posted August 7, 2007 They're both just natural finish lacewood, no masking, no nothing fancy. Maybe a bit of oil, but likely it's just straight-up solvent based finish. The different figure could be from different cuts, or it could be different lacewood (there's the ozzie variety, some south american stuff, plain old london plane, all fairly commonly known as 'lacewood', all with fairly similar looks). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmrentis Posted August 7, 2007 Report Share Posted August 7, 2007 (edited) At first I thought for sure the first one was leopard wood and the second was normal lacewood, but after reading through this little link, I am not so certain. Both links are for the same site and one shows pics of leopard woods and the second one is regular lacewood. It seems as there are a number of species that are always confused for each other and the guy tries to explain why. Basically, I won't have a good guess after that site, I was fairly sure it was the leopard wood or australian version at first glance(the first picture), but now I don't know. As already stated the second one is a thick carved top, the only way to create this type of figure would be to have a thick carved top, a veneer will not accomplish this. Best of luck either way, it should look pretty cool. Here is a link I just looked at Leopard wood and the other one Lacewood The ozzie one I was thinking of wasn't actually lacewood it was sheoak and it can have that type of figure, but it says that it is rare for this type of figure to occur in sheoak, though it does occur. So technically, it could be sheoak. In the lacewood link pictures they show a plank cut parallel to the figure and it actually looked pretty much just like that first picture. Sheoak Edited August 7, 2007 by jmrentis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Posted August 7, 2007 Report Share Posted August 7, 2007 Yeah the lacewood veneer I bought a bit ago looked exactly like the stuff on that strat... no fancy masking needed. Although your idea sounds pretty cool in its own right GregP! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted August 7, 2007 Report Share Posted August 7, 2007 The ozzie one I was thinking of wasn't actually lacewood it was sheoak and it can have that type of figure, but it says that it is rare for this type of figure to occur in sheoak, though it does occur. So technically, it could be sheoak. In the lacewood link pictures they show a plank cut parallel to the figure and it actually looked pretty much just like that first picture. Sheoak Ive never seen Sheoak that DIDNT look like that... Well, at least close enough to know that its very simular. Somewhere, i have some sheoak that looks like the first pic, but smaller 'dots' AND flamed. INSANITY!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oz tradie Posted August 7, 2007 Report Share Posted August 7, 2007 This is a 20mm top I've had stored in the workshop which is definitely lace sheoak. Dunno if this clears things up. cheers, Stu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGman Posted August 7, 2007 Report Share Posted August 7, 2007 That's one mighty nice top you got there Stu, any plans for it yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oz tradie Posted August 7, 2007 Report Share Posted August 7, 2007 Eventually it'll get used. Although I've got 3 other similar sheoak tops, one of them is bound to get used this year for sure. That's the best of the bunch from memory. cheers, Stu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmrentis Posted August 7, 2007 Report Share Posted August 7, 2007 (edited) Ive never seen Sheoak that DIDNT look like that... Well, at least close enough to know that its very simular. Somewhere, i have some sheoak that looks like the first pic, but smaller 'dots' AND flamed. INSANITY!! Thanks for the info, I honestly thought it was not only common figure, but just the natural figure of the wood, until I read what that guy had said. When I saw that piece I thought of sheoak, which at the time I thought was the samething as leopard wood, either way that is some wicked stuff. Whenever you get around to using that piece of sheoak you spoke about, shoot us a pic, you always have some wicked selections on wood. Thanks again for the input. J PS: Anyone used the stuff for bindings? I think I saw a site that started carrying lacewood for bindings and honestly I think it might look given the right application. Just curious if anyone has experience using it as bindings. Thanks. J Edited August 7, 2007 by jmrentis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oz tradie Posted August 7, 2007 Report Share Posted August 7, 2007 I've used it for bindings before. It's problematic for tighter radiusses, although it is used on acoustic builds for back and sides as well as binding. binding example #1 The fretboard and bindings I did were straight runs and worked well. cheers, Stu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmrentis Posted August 7, 2007 Report Share Posted August 7, 2007 Very cool looking fretboard and binding! Thank you for the input, its definitely something I might try, looks pretty good I think. As you mentioned though I will have to choose the project carefully, so I'm not doing super tight cutaways, maybe a prs style carved top where the cutaways are beveled with no bindings would work out well. Just run it on the rest of the body and neck. Anyhow, thanks for the cool pics and info, very helpful, thanks Stu!! J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darwinphilosophy Posted August 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2007 Hmm, so pretty much a clear varnish and then the polyurethane(thats what I usually use)? Or just straight up polyurethane and no type of varnishes? I have never finished anything without staining it first. Also would and oil be best and then polyurethane over the oil or would poly have a hard time sticking to a body that has been oiled? Thanks again for all the info and that whole masking idea sounds pretty cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitart Posted August 10, 2007 Report Share Posted August 10, 2007 On this one I oiled three times allowing it dry inbetween. I then let it sit for 2 weeks and gave it a lacquer finish. sorry for all the dust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darwinphilosophy Posted August 12, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2007 Wow what kind of oil? Tung oil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myka Guitars Posted August 12, 2007 Report Share Posted August 12, 2007 I have finished all my lacewood guitars with straight lacquer with fine results. I don't use sanding sealer generally and I go fairly light with the coats. For lacewood I may add a bit more as the surface is very uneven due to the harder fibers and softer matrix of the wood so it is easier to sand or buff through. It is beautiful wood but can be tough to work with. Sanding blocks are a must and they still won't make a perfectly flat surface. I haven't used poly but I imagine similar results would be possible. Test on scrap and go from there. Here's a picture: Here are more pictures of Dragonfly #018, #037, and #052. ~David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted August 12, 2007 Report Share Posted August 12, 2007 <drool> Looks great on all the examples provided. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitart Posted August 12, 2007 Report Share Posted August 12, 2007 I used Danish Oil. To me it brings out the grain and makes it pop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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