Stripping Paint ?

[tkcrabby]

Ok Guys,

I've got a mess and I need some advice on how to move forward.

My 12 year old son has a Peavey Tele ,, factory finish was gloss Black paint,,,,,,,,,,,, Ok, someone painted a black lacquer over top of the original and now it's got cracks all over the finish, top back , and sides,,,,,,,,,, I told him I'd refinish it for him (maybe a mistake) I figured I'd just use some chemical stripper on it and refinish it in a stain and then a wipe on poly over that,,,,,,,,, here's the problem,,, the top has a very nice white plastic binding on it and I'm sure the stripper wouldn't like it much so , what do I do now,,,,,,,,,I didn't stop to think about this before hand and have already promised him I'd do the refinish.

If there's no good way to get the paint off of the body is there some good way of possibly filling the cracks in the finish and then sealing it and painting a solid paint on top again without any fear of the cracking coming back AND not damaging the binding.

Thanks for any help Y'all can be!

[tkcrabby]

ANYBODY ! ? ! ?

[thegarehanman]

If you don't want to route off and replace the binding, then your best bet is to use masking tape over the bound areas, apply paint stripper sparingly to the body, making sure to stay 1 to 2 inches away from the tape that's on the binding, then carefully removing the paint stripper and paint, again making sure to keep it away from the binding. Once you've got the bulk of the paint off, use coarse sandpaper to remove the paint that's near the binding.

Also, as for refinishing the guitar, you might look into reranch.com paint products or duplicolor's line of automotive spray can finishes. You should be able to get decent to good results with either.

peace,

russ

[tkcrabby]

Thanks Russ,

You said ,"If you don't want to route off and replace the binding", well, no, I'd rather not replace if I didn't have to,,,,,, it would be my very first try at dealing with binding and I'd hate to take a chance on messing up one of my sons guitars.............. IF I did decide to TRY removing the binding and putting a new one on and it didn't work I guess I could try routing the edge of the body and doing away with the binding , I think he'd be ok with a rounded body on his Tele , it would make the guitar a little different,,,,,,,,,,,, I like the binding on a Tele and would hate to mess it up.

What to do, what to do?

[brewu22]

Depending on what kind of finish the guitar has on it, will determine how much sanding you will have to do. If it is polyester, you have your work cut out for you. I have yet to find a paint remover that can remove that stuff. As for the round-over, I think that would be a pretty large radius, depending on the size of the binding. I would do what Russ said, and tape it off, strip what you can, and sand the rest. Good luck.

[tlover]

Hi!

This web site will save you! http://members.cox.net/ampage/index.html

It will tell you in detail how to strip and refinish your son's guitar.

Be Well!

[cukaracha]

About stripping the body with chemicals, after scrapping the paint off, what do you do get rid of all the chemicals? and does the chemical paint stripper remove the sand sealer too?

[tkcrabby]

Well guys, I just got through stripping ,,,,, or at least the first pass at the stripping process,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ALL the paint is off,,,,, 99% came VERY easily using a heat gun. the rest with a palm sander and a little scraping using a utility knife,, dragging it backwards................ there is still a little sealer on the body (dark areas), at least that's what I think it is,,,,,,, right guys??? ,,, is there any "good" way to get it completely off without using a chem ,,, other than sanding like I've been doing so far? OR do I need to get the sealer completely off if I'm going to paint it? The body is made up of five (5) pieces of wood so unfortunately I'd say it's definitely going to be painted and not stained.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/tkc58/100_2743.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e249/tkc58/100_2744.jpg

Edited October 30, 2008 by tkcrabby

[tkcrabby]

Hey guys!!!!!!

Do I need to remove the rest of the factory sealer before I put some sanding sealer on it OR will it be OK to put the sanding sealer on top of the factory sealer?

[tkcrabby]

Here's the paints and sealer I'm planning on using, will they work OK together?

[tkcrabby]

Ok, I got a little antsy and went ahead and sanded the sealer off of the front and back of the body,, ALL that's left is the edges of the body,,, of course this will be by far the most difficult so, what's the best way to do this,,,,,, a Palm sander wants to "rock" too much a drum sander of some type, maybe something that fits on a Dremel?

[Maiden69]

If you have followed the last few threads about sanding sealer, you would know that it is a waste of time. The actual sealer companies use is a lot more harder and durable than any SS that I have used. BUT since you already went ahead, you will need a piece of rubber ( I use a urethane spacer that is about 1/4" thick) that is flat, will conform to the body bends but won't be too soft that your fingers will dig into the finish.

I see you are using Krylon paint... I have a lot of bad experience with them, I would say not to use it, but it is up to you.

And a pointer on sanding edges, if you can do it by hand, DO SO, using machines will make the room for a disaster so much greater. You can ruin the binding in a second with an orbital! So of by hand, nobody said this was an easy hobby!!!

[killemall8]

Ok, I got a little antsy and went ahead and sanded the sealer off of the front and back of the body,, ALL that's left is the edges of the body,,, of course this will be by far the most difficult so, what's the best way to do this,,,,,, a Palm sander wants to "rock" too much a drum sander of some type, maybe something that fits on a Dremel?

since your going to paint it, you dont need to strip it all the way to the wood. you only need to sand it smooth to where there are no more shiny spots.

[tkcrabby]

since your going to paint it, you don't need to strip it all the way to the wood. you only need to sand it smooth to where there are no more shiny spots.

Thanks for the reply,,, OK, so,,, I guess since I've already done the stripping on the back and front it'll be OK to stop right there and apply sanding sealer to the parts that I stripped and leave the original sealer in place on the body edges? Gosh, I hope so cuz it's tuff to get that stuff off.

I have a compressor and a couple of guns, one gravity and one siphon BUT no shop,,,, just a VERY Full attached garage that I don't think would be warm enough during the winter to do this so I'm thinking of taking this to "work" to do there as a winter project,,,,,, I have a fair amount of "down time" there so I can work on it there............. I've seen some good and some bad reports on using the Krylon products,,,,,,,,,,,,,, this is my first paint job on a Guitar so I think I'll try it as an experiment, IF it messes up I'll redo it with something else,,,,,,,,,,,, if it takes all winter, it just does.

Edited November 7, 2007 by tkcrabby

[tkcrabby]

Ok, a change of plans , I'll be taking this stuff back and getting some Duplicolor automotive primer, paint (color coat and clear) for this project............. Then hopefully at some point in the future I'll be able to have the room to use my compressor and spray gun or guns........................ I have to use rattle cans this time and hopefully this change will work out ok.

[Maiden69]

Take the stuff in, and take your hard earn money and go here and get this since you have a gun. The duplicolor base coat will work fine with this as long as you let it cure and don't spray too thick, the duplicolor clear sucks big time!!! Shoo if you are going for a solid color just get these and mix your own colors... if you want metallics, then just go for the duplicolor bases.I can understand you using cans if you don't have access to a gun, and even then I rather use a Preval to shoot the nitro than to use any can contained lacquer.