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Tune-o-matic bridge


goat

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On a Les Paul style tuneomatic,25 1/2" scale,what is the standard

Where does 25 1/2" from nut fall?

Should it be 25 1/2" to the center of the bridge?

...because the individual bridge rollers are adjustable for intonation,and the bridge is sort of on an angle.

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I haven't done aTOM on a 25.5 scale, but the bridge should be about 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch further from the nut than the 25.5. This is to compensate for the lengthening of the strings ad they are fretted. Somebody else here must have done this and have the exact plan to follow.

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i just did this on a recent restorating project. What i did, and it worked perfectly was: measure from where the string leaves the nut, the first place it would not be touching anything, to the twelvth fret. then go that same ditance away from the twelfth fret. Place the tunomatic center on there. After that, since it's tun-o-matic for each string work out the intonation. if it's The low e string, Then on the same string twelfth fret it should also be E. then just keep fixing the intonation for each individual string until on every single string the twelfth fret is the same exact note.

Should take about half an hour, if you're used of setting intonation. If you're not, it shouldn't take more than an hour.

another word of advise: read everything you can on guitars, constantly expand your knowledge, I'm 15, and i could take on many, many of the restoration projects that the pro's could, without their fancy tools. so just keep reading those Project guitar articles.have fun!!

:DB):D

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The center of the stud? And you also recess it right? So neck angles aren't an issue. How deep do ya go?

When referring to center of stud,we mean distance from nut to center,or in my case a zero-fret,not the height of the stud.I do have neck angle for this,so I won`t have to recess anything.

I needed the reference point Wes has given me.

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Place the tunomatic center on there. After that, since it's tun-o-matic for each string work out the intonation. if it's The low e string, Then on the same string twelfth fret it should also be E. then just keep fixing the intonation for each individual string until on every single string the twelfth fret is the same exact note.

renablistic,I`m pretty sure if you place the tun0matic square to centerline,you may run out of intonation on the high or low end if it`s not staggered.

For this reason on this Schaller Bridge,the adjustment screws run parallel to the center-line of the guitar when staggered.

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Place the tunomatic center on there. After that, since it's tun-o-matic for each string work out the intonation. if it's The low e string, Then on the same string twelfth fret it should also be E. then just keep fixing the intonation for each individual string until on every single string the twelfth fret is the same exact note.

renablistic,I`m pretty sure if you place the tun0matic square to centerline,you may run out of intonation on the high or low end if it`s not staggered.

For this reason on this Schaller Bridge,the adjustment screws run parallel to the center-line of the guitar when staggered.

no, actually, to tell ya the truth, it worked perfectly for me. But one pointi did miss was that i did this for each side of the neck. I dunno, but everytime i've done it the way i explained earlier, it worked perfectly.

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I do mine exactly the way Wes outlined above, with the bass side being set back 3/16" from scale.

When I use TOM's, I do angle my neck pocket for some pitch, just seems like the right thing to do when using a TOM in the first place, even on flat-topped solidbodies.

I just use my Stew-Mac neck router template and stick a little round shim under the middle as a 'seesaw', and stick another smaller flat shim under it near the neck when I get the right pitch, it's just as easy to do as routing a normal neck pocket...

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