goat Posted November 7, 2003 Report Posted November 7, 2003 On a Les Paul style tuneomatic,25 1/2" scale,what is the standard Where does 25 1/2" from nut fall? Should it be 25 1/2" to the center of the bridge? ...because the individual bridge rollers are adjustable for intonation,and the bridge is sort of on an angle. Quote
YDoesGodMockMeSo Posted November 7, 2003 Report Posted November 7, 2003 good question... need this info for summer guitar plans. Quote
DannoG Posted November 7, 2003 Report Posted November 7, 2003 I haven't done aTOM on a 25.5 scale, but the bridge should be about 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch further from the nut than the 25.5. This is to compensate for the lengthening of the strings ad they are fretted. Somebody else here must have done this and have the exact plan to follow. Quote
westhemann Posted November 7, 2003 Report Posted November 7, 2003 no...i place the bottom stud(high e side)exactly at the scale length,then place the low e side 3/16" farther from the nut. Quote
YDoesGodMockMeSo Posted November 7, 2003 Report Posted November 7, 2003 The center of the stud? And you also recess it right? So neck angles aren't an issue. How deep do ya go? Quote
renablistic Posted November 7, 2003 Report Posted November 7, 2003 i just did this on a recent restorating project. What i did, and it worked perfectly was: measure from where the string leaves the nut, the first place it would not be touching anything, to the twelvth fret. then go that same ditance away from the twelfth fret. Place the tunomatic center on there. After that, since it's tun-o-matic for each string work out the intonation. if it's The low e string, Then on the same string twelfth fret it should also be E. then just keep fixing the intonation for each individual string until on every single string the twelfth fret is the same exact note. Should take about half an hour, if you're used of setting intonation. If you're not, it shouldn't take more than an hour. another word of advise: read everything you can on guitars, constantly expand your knowledge, I'm 15, and i could take on many, many of the restoration projects that the pro's could, without their fancy tools. so just keep reading those Project guitar articles.have fun!! Quote
goat Posted November 7, 2003 Author Report Posted November 7, 2003 The center of the stud? And you also recess it right? So neck angles aren't an issue. How deep do ya go? When referring to center of stud,we mean distance from nut to center,or in my case a zero-fret,not the height of the stud.I do have neck angle for this,so I won`t have to recess anything. I needed the reference point Wes has given me. Quote
goat Posted November 7, 2003 Author Report Posted November 7, 2003 Place the tunomatic center on there. After that, since it's tun-o-matic for each string work out the intonation. if it's The low e string, Then on the same string twelfth fret it should also be E. then just keep fixing the intonation for each individual string until on every single string the twelfth fret is the same exact note. renablistic,I`m pretty sure if you place the tun0matic square to centerline,you may run out of intonation on the high or low end if it`s not staggered. For this reason on this Schaller Bridge,the adjustment screws run parallel to the center-line of the guitar when staggered. Quote
westhemann Posted November 8, 2003 Report Posted November 8, 2003 The center of the stud? And you also recess it right? So neck angles aren't an issue. How deep do ya go? how deep you recess depends on how high the frets are above the body surface Quote
renablistic Posted November 8, 2003 Report Posted November 8, 2003 Place the tunomatic center on there. After that, since it's tun-o-matic for each string work out the intonation. if it's The low e string, Then on the same string twelfth fret it should also be E. then just keep fixing the intonation for each individual string until on every single string the twelfth fret is the same exact note. renablistic,I`m pretty sure if you place the tun0matic square to centerline,you may run out of intonation on the high or low end if it`s not staggered. For this reason on this Schaller Bridge,the adjustment screws run parallel to the center-line of the guitar when staggered. no, actually, to tell ya the truth, it worked perfectly for me. But one pointi did miss was that i did this for each side of the neck. I dunno, but everytime i've done it the way i explained earlier, it worked perfectly. Quote
westhemann Posted November 8, 2003 Report Posted November 8, 2003 keep in mind that some tom's have more range of adjustment than others. Quote
renablistic Posted November 8, 2003 Report Posted November 8, 2003 the guitars i've done this with are both archtop, and both times i used Gotoh TOM's from Stewmac. the acoustic one it kept falling off because i used crappy glue, so i've had to re-set like 7 times. So maybe the Gotoh arhtop TOM's just kick ass? Quote
westhemann Posted November 8, 2003 Report Posted November 8, 2003 the gotohs have a wide range of motion.but goat is correct...all the toms i have ever seen are angled Quote
Drak Posted November 8, 2003 Report Posted November 8, 2003 I do mine exactly the way Wes outlined above, with the bass side being set back 3/16" from scale. When I use TOM's, I do angle my neck pocket for some pitch, just seems like the right thing to do when using a TOM in the first place, even on flat-topped solidbodies. I just use my Stew-Mac neck router template and stick a little round shim under the middle as a 'seesaw', and stick another smaller flat shim under it near the neck when I get the right pitch, it's just as easy to do as routing a normal neck pocket... Quote
canuckguitarist Posted November 8, 2003 Report Posted November 8, 2003 i'm gonna try not to take those 'eh's as an insult to canadians....[twitching and blinking] Quote
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