Leveling Out Multi Layer Finishes

[angry_jeremy]

Hi, I just finished painting my latest project, a RRV with a pinstripe design.

http://s181.photobucket.com/albums/x289/an...nt=IMG_1108.jpg

I sprayed the black first, then masked then sprayed white over top. Problem is that it took a lot of white to cover the black and there is now a noticeable ridge between the two colors. I sprayed clear on top, doing extra coats on the black areas in an effort to fill in the little troughs. Is this the best way to continue? I don't know if wetsanding, buffing, etc. will take care of the ridges or not. Any ideas?

:D

[MiKro]

Hi, I just finished painting my latest project, a RRV with a pinstripe design.

http://s181.photobucket.com/albums/x289/an...nt=IMG_1108.jpg

I sprayed the black first, then masked then sprayed white over top. Problem is that it took a lot of white to cover the black and there is now a noticeable ridge between the two colors. I sprayed clear on top, doing extra coats on the black areas in an effort to fill in the little troughs. Is this the best way to continue? I don't know if wetsanding, buffing, etc. will take care of the ridges or not. Any ideas?

:D

As you now have learned, start with the light colors and then the dark. Now as far as your problem, You can continue to build up the clear coats and then level sand back until they they work out. Just don't sand back to far into the white. Add more clear coat and repeat until level.

Hope that helps?

MK

[angry_jeremy]

Yeah, but that would have been crazy to try and mask spraying white then black. I suppose it wouldn't hurt to do a little investigative sanding and see how the ridges feel and do more clear as needed. I'm thinking that buffing compounds (Meguire's) shouldn't be used until there is no more chance of more clear coats, or am I wrong in that assumption? Can you spray new clear over old clear that's been buffed and slimed up with compound?

[GA Bert]

Can you spray new clear over old clear that's been buffed and slimed up with compound?

Yes you can shoot over compounded finishes...you must re-scuff with 800 grit and make sure you haven't used a wax type of compound.

[erikbojerik]

You need to start with something gentle (even 400 grit, or 320 if you're careful) and start sanding the clear coat to knock down the high parts. You should remove all the shiny spots in this process WITHOUT sanding through into the actual paint. This will tell you pretty quick how level and flat the finish it...if it isn't, then you need to scuff off all the gloss with a softer backing pad (again..don't sand through), and keep spraying and levelling in between coats until it is all level.

Here's a shot of one I recently completed, at the stage of level sanding between clear coats....even little tiny dimples like these should have the gloss sanded off by hand before shooting the next (or final) coat of clear, because they will stand out even more clearly when you try to buff (and they won't buff out....).

Edited September 10, 2007 by erikbojerik

[rooster]

Yeah, but that would have been crazy to try and mask spraying white then black. I suppose it wouldn't hurt to do a little investigative sanding and see how the ridges feel and do more clear as needed. I'm thinking that buffing compounds (Meguire's) shouldn't be used until there is no more chance of more clear coats, or am I wrong in that assumption? Can you spray new clear over old clear that's been buffed and slimed up with compound?

It's always easier to start with your lightest color and go from there. For that design you probably could've used automotive pinstriping and then just cleared over it.

As far as the ridges, it would help to know if you're using an automotive clear or not. If so, find a nice 3M rubber sanding block (turtle shaped) and put a piece of 1000 grit wet paper on it and GENTLY and SLOWLY sand it down smooth. It depends on how much clear you laid down as to how far you can take it without having to reshoot it.

[angry_jeremy]

Thanks all.

[erikbojerik]

You need to start with something gentle (even 400 grit, or 320 if you're careful) and start sanding the clear coat to knock down the high parts. You should remove all the shiny spots in this process WITHOUT sanding through into the actual paint.

I forgot the most important part...you need to do this with a hard flat block (not something soft like sponge), this will hit the high spots most agressively. But watch carefully, if you start to hit the paint, stop and don't sand that area again until the next clear coat is on. And for initial levelling, use something more aggressive than 1000 grit (400 or 320 like I said), but work your way to finer grits as things become more level.

If you already had ridges due to the paint, it will take many clear coat-sanding cycles to get everything flat.

A lot of guys get to the stage where they're ready to finish, and think they're 90% done. Actually, they're about 50% done (if you're keeping track of the hours).

Edited September 11, 2007 by erikbojerik

[angry_jeremy]

A lot of guys get to the stage where they're ready to finish, and think they're 90% done. Actually, they're about 50% done (if you're keeping track of the hours).

You said it!