TFeemster Posted September 16, 2007 Report Share Posted September 16, 2007 Being the amature I am and this my first build I have made a big mistake and was wondering if there is any posible solutions? When I braced the back on my acoustic build I braced it on a flat surface and therefore it was flat. I have already glued it to the body of the guitar. Is there any way to get the back off and rebrace it right without tearing it all up. I can live with it flat, but I have really put alot of work into this build and if there is any way to correct this I want to. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted September 17, 2007 Report Share Posted September 17, 2007 (edited) Being the amature I am and this my first build I have made a big mistake and was wondering if there is any posible solutions? When I braced the back on my acoustic build I braced it on a flat surface and therefore it was flat. I have already glued it to the body of the guitar. Is there any way to get the back off and rebrace it right without tearing it all up. I can live with it flat, but I have really put alot of work into this build and if there is any way to correct this I want to. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. If the glue is fresh you will have an easier time heating it up to break it down and remove the back. A router is probably not going to do you much good if you want to keep the back in tact(although that would be a good method if you were replacing the back). It will take time, so go slow and don't do damage. The bracing can be carved away with chisels. Again time consuming, but go slow and avoid going deep or gauging the backs surface. After you have it cleaned up, you can rebraced with properly radiused braces(15' or whatever you are planning). You need to sand that radius into the rim also, so that youhave a properly matched set of surfaces. A radius dish is REALLY helpful. Do overs are much more time intensive, but stick with it. Plan ahead, prepair your workspace, use proper tools and jigs, protect the surrounding areas of your acoustic while you work. P.S. If it is a material that could potentially be easy to match(such as regular Mahogany). It may be easier to just route off that back and replace it. Routing only requires a pass around and a tiny bit of clean up and your off and ready to resurface the rim. If you have a drum sander, the braces can be sanded away(if you re-use the back). It is a little safer and quicker than carving. Good Luck, Rich Edited September 17, 2007 by fryovanni Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TFeemster Posted September 17, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2007 What is the best procedure in heating up the wood for separation? The back is made of walnut, should I just scrap the back and do another? The glue is about 6-8 Months set. Thanks for your info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinny Posted September 17, 2007 Report Share Posted September 17, 2007 Hey T, Use a hairdrier following what fryovanni suggested. -Vinny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TFeemster Posted September 17, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2007 How warm should I get it and what tools do I use to separate It. Thank Yall for the info... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenny Posted September 18, 2007 Report Share Posted September 18, 2007 well, until it starts to budge a razor blade is good for getting the inital seperation, i personally when removing fretboards and bridges use a clothing iron just get it hot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted September 18, 2007 Report Share Posted September 18, 2007 Most glues will soften above about 250F. and start breaking down quickly above that temp.. Using an external source to get things started is good. I kinda prefer a heat gun or even better a heating blanket(iron is ok also, just be careful as it is pretty hard, and won't make super good contact). The most productive thing will be heating the blade you use to seperate the glue. This puts the het right where it is most effective(at the glue). There are a lot of blades that will work fine(a small blade will help getting things started), be sure you have a handle that can insulate it from the heat(wood handle or what have you). You will need to keep reheating the blade and sliding it in there(let the heat do the work, don't force the blade). Take your time. As far as making a new one. Give removing a shot. If it doesn't work out(back gets damaged or what not), then make a new back. Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TFeemster Posted September 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2007 Thanks for all of your wealth of information. I greatly appreciate it and will keep you informed of my progress.. Yall Rock! TF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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