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Walnut Body, Rosewood Neck : How's It Going To Sound ?


timmyo
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Hi there :D

Let's assume I'm building a Strat-shaped body from Walnut, and bolting on a rosewood neck and rosewood fingerboard and Wilko trem.

If you absolutely had to (and you do :D ) what would you guess at the tonal response of the finished guitar being ? (it's having body-mounted humbuckers x 2 btw)

ta

Tim

p.s. - wow - what a lot of info on this forum, great place

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I'm not sure what that body wood is, but it's not an American or European Walnut. It does look like some Mahogany, but it's hard to tell. Is EIR heavier than hard maple? If it is, it's not a great deal heavier, not to my knowledge. So I don't see weight being too much of an issue here, but nice wood choices so far!

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  • 3 months later...

bumped for a full stop!! :D

anyway - whilst its here. I have seem very similar wood called african walnut in this neck of the woods and since i know timmyo is from the UK i would guess thats what it is. Possibly just another Uk name for sapele but i am not really sure. Its got a really nice golden mahogany sheen with lots of ribboning and the occasional dark grainline. My first ever guitar project was from a burled piece of it that used to be a table my dad made at school

this was also sold to me as african walnut:

wv20.jpg

also i dont think the CNC is timmyo's.

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the pickups i used were fender black doves rather than real P-90's. Certainly not bad sounding for the price i paid but they are badly made and not up to the sound quality i get from my bare knuckle equipped guitars.. i guess i am hooked on BKP's now

Currently the guitar is waiting to be rebuilt because the neck angle was slightly out and didnt give as much range of adjustment as i like. I set it so the strings would touch the frets at the lowest setting so all the adjustment would be upwards. These schaller roller bridges dont have as much screw length to adjust action compared with a normal hardtail. but they do come iwth a metal spacer to raise it more if you need to - unfortunately to get to the point where there is enough break angle to stop the string popping out the saddle the bridge needs to be set to the point of 'far to high' action on the guitar i built. It was ok for most people when set to a normal action but i had a couple of people with heavy strumming hands point the problem out to me. I just need to recess the bridge a couple of mm and its should be fine for everyone, but when i get around to it i will replace the pickups with Bare Knuckle Pickup P-90's.. maybe get a special set slightly underwound for me because i am preferring P-90 construction with around 6-7k of power at the moment.

I cant say for certain that the wood it is the same as sapele because i havnt worked with that yet - but this stuff certainly works like walnut so i can understand why that name may have been given to it in the UK

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i am preferring P-90 construction with around 6-7k of power at the moment

I agree. The longer I build and the older I get, the lighter in output my pickups seem to get, and the more tonality I seem to achieve.

I achieve a heavy saturation tone by using the active electronics setup with specialty controls, not by using high output pickups.

Unless I'm doing a 'go-for-the-throat' Metal guitar of some kind.

But those are getting less and less as I get older and older.

:D :D B)

Sorry to hear about the guitar woes, it is a beauty indeed. :D

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