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Sherwin Williams Automotive?


ihocky2
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Does anyone have any experience with Sherwim Williams line of automotive paint products? I am looking at what brands of auto paints are sold locally so I don't have to pay the insane harzardous shipping fees. But there are not many places locally, but I did find a Sherwin Williams automotive branch. I am look at the following link for the clear coat. If anyone has any experience with it or other lines from Sherwin Williams I would like to hear about it. I am going to be contacting S-W directly to find out if this clear can be tinted with Trans-Tint dyes or not. Once I find out I will post their answer.

http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products...9988&cat=94

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I received a response from the customer service about the dyes. They said they would recomend against it. They had to develop a waterbased dye to use because their normal solvent based toner were not compatable with this. Now I thought the Trans-Tint dyes were not solvent based. So I think I am going to get a quart of this clear coat and mix up a batch with some dye and do a test run of it. If it doesn't work, at least I know. But if it does, I know I can do more with it then. They also said that they do not recomend more than two coats at a time. They said to spray two coats and then let it cure 8hr to overnight, scuff sand and then do two more coats, and so on.

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Don't forget the hardener for the RS6040, they have 3, fast, medium and slow.

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I didn't include about the hardener, but yes I was planning on getting that as well. I am going to go with the fast hardener since it is rated to spray down as low as 55 deg. I have to heat the area in the garage that I am going to spray, so I will get it as warm as I can, but the extra but of safety will be nice.

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sherwinn williams Sherwood Water White Conversion Varnish is what I used on my Exploder...it is a 2 part finish designed for bartops.It takes universal dyes and pigments very well,the mixing is easy,and it dries to touch in 15 minutes(you can do your level sanding then) and dries completely hard in 24 hours.

It costs $50 for the gallon plus $20 for the catalyst....I use xylene for the thinner.Xylene is $10 a gallon

I can't reccomend that stuff enough.I play my Exploder almost daily and it is still scratch free.

One catch...it MUST be above 72 degrees farenheit during the entire curing process.Also,it SAYS to only make the finish 2 mils thick,but I think that means per coat...because my finish is a good 1/16" thick with no chipping yet.

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Wes, is that clear uro compatible? Spray or brush on?

ihocky2 - where are you at? I can't recomend Coast Airbrush enough for supporting the custom painter with small quantities of product, reasonable shipping and all the time in the world to make it work for you. (www.coastairbrush.com)

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Syxx-I am located in Eastern Pennsylvania and have a few good sources I am finding but not nearly as many as if I lived closer to Philly. I can basically find one source for each of the major brands locally.

Wes- I remember reading your review of the Conversion Varnish. I am glad to hear that it is holding up so well. I was giving that serious consideration until my build schedule ran long and I am not getting about 55 degrees outside now. I do not want to spray anywhere inside my house, so that is out of the question. My garage would work well, but I do not have power running out to it. I currently do all of my work with a pair of worklights over my bench and one power tool at a time because I have to run everything off 25 feet of extension cord. I have a few of those nice oil filled radiators that I can plug in, but I give it about 5 minutes before I trip the breaker if I run two of them at the same time. And I am not even close to being stupid enough to run the Kerosene heater. Even though it would probably result in a nice mushroom cloud. So I do not think I can get the garage above 70 degrees. I liked the urethane because with the fastest hardener I could spary down to 55 degress and with a heater running I should be able to easily keep the area around the guitar warm enough. I guess at this point, I have to try hooking up a pair of heaters and seeing what they can do for me.

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It is intended to spray on....

Urethane compatible?I don't know,but I don't see why you would need it to be?You can use it as a base to make any color you want with universal dyes and pigments...

Wes,

I use a lot of products from House of Kolor, Alsa, and Autoair. Basically automotive finishes, but would love to find a clear thats a little cheaper and less dangerous than the automotive stuff.

Things like true candy paints, shimirin base coats, flakes, pearls etc. For the Hok stuff I should really stick with thier clears, but for the Auto-air etc...

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Syxx-I am located in Eastern Pennsylvania and have a few good sources I am finding but not nearly as many as if I lived closer to Philly. I can basically find one source for each of the major brands locally.

Wes- I remember reading your review of the Conversion Varnish. I am glad to hear that it is holding up so well. I was giving that serious consideration until my build schedule ran long and I am not getting about 55 degrees outside now. I do not want to spray anywhere inside my house, so that is out of the question. My garage would work well, but I do not have power running out to it. I currently do all of my work with a pair of worklights over my bench and one power tool at a time because I have to run everything off 25 feet of extension cord. I have a few of those nice oil filled radiators that I can plug in, but I give it about 5 minutes before I trip the breaker if I run two of them at the same time. And I am not even close to being stupid enough to run the Kerosene heater. Even though it would probably result in a nice mushroom cloud. So I do not think I can get the garage above 70 degrees. I liked the urethane because with the fastest hardener I could spary down to 55 degress and with a heater running I should be able to easily keep the area around the guitar warm enough. I guess at this point, I have to try hooking up a pair of heaters and seeing what they can do for me.

Coast will work with you to keep shipping costs reasonable, if you decide to mail order.

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How do the compare to www.hokpaint.com? It seems like you work quite often with HOK. Have you ever used any other brand of clear with them. I like their products from displays I have seen and people that I know that have used it, but they are expensive. If I could use their colors and cut down the cost with a cheaper clear it would be nice. I do like the idea of the Auto Air Colors under the conversion varnish though. That should give a nice candy coat effect at a lot lower of a cost and less hazard than the urethanes.

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I use Auto Air and Hok. I know other people and myself have used other brands of clear, do so at your own risk etc.

The candy's from Auto Air don't work as well as the House of Kolor, but they work pretty well if your just after a transparent over silver etc...

This is all Auto Air pre clear:

http://syxxstring.shutterfly.com/action/pi...e21b357b88745f8

As for Hokpaint.com. That is TCP Global, they sell prereduced paint. This is a really bad idea, once you reduce it the shelf life has begun. You don't know when they reduced it,etc... Its only good for a week or so at best.

Also you don't know what they've reduced it with or what percent. If your going to do any graphic work you probably would over reduce it anyways. Custom painters will reduce up to 500%.

There is no one involved with custom paint that would recomend this. Plus the prereduced paints don't work out to be that good of a deal compared to the authentic Hok small quantities.

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On Wes' recommedation I got the Sherwin Williams stuff and am very pleased with how it turned out. I used both a minwax waterbased color stain and an aniline dye (alcohol based) and the clear topcoat went on great. -Vinny

I also purchased the conversion varnish after seeing Wes' Exploder. It sprays very well and appears to be compatible with the MEK-based dye concentrates that LMI sells.

One comment about the CV is that the fumes are nasty. Probably just as bad as urethane. I would not spray it inside. Also, xylene eats latex gloves and goes through nitrile, too (but a little slower). You really need PVA gloves to handle the stuff.

Edited by fookgub
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