WezV Posted November 10, 2007 Report Share Posted November 10, 2007 i'm getting confused. It may be the copious amounts of cheap cider and expensive whiskey i have been drinking but has this thread switched from the bevels at the top of the fretslot that help the fret seat nicely to the bevels on the edge of the fretboard that stop your hand bleeding maybe i should have another read when sober Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soapbarstrat Posted November 10, 2007 Report Share Posted November 10, 2007 Don't be so narrow minded. We're talking about a more advanced way of using a guitar with strings that run parallel to the frets instead of parallel with the neck. So, as you can imagine, we need bevels all over the place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted November 10, 2007 Report Share Posted November 10, 2007 Ummm....i've too addled from watching the 2-0th anincary frediidie maecut viedeo. Trying noet o make too many sware words here/ ahh So yah. Compromise btween benwding fretat. and then makign then ebei n holes and sots etc. make then be in thersuifiosiomg ha,,er and ca. i would say So beykdonf confisdecen ion my abulat uito make insutmnr.ts. tomotrwowe i make the 98-string work. marye Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted November 10, 2007 Report Share Posted November 10, 2007 hah. the fdiifference between four and eight beeers is all to obbviosu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hector Posted November 10, 2007 Report Share Posted November 10, 2007 I hear builder claim they just press them in and they are all level, but my experience is they rarely seat perfectly level, and there are always some variations in the fingerboard that seem to develop as you are fretting. I'm one of those builders. Don't know what's wrong with me, but a lot of times after hammering in the frets on a new board, i don't need to level. maybe i'm lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanthus Posted November 10, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2007 Stumbled across a thread containing picture of said beveled fret slot, for those not interested in getting drunk and stuff http://acapella.harmony-central.com/forums...d.php?t=1752254 Fourth pic down, and the paragraphs above it detail the process a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted November 10, 2007 Report Share Posted November 10, 2007 Whew. I have to re-iterate that beer and fretting are mutually exclusive pastimes, both of which can cause headaches if you rush headlong into them without prior planning :-D Maybe. The boards I have had from LMII haven't had uber-deep slots, perhaps from the standpoint of a fresh unradiused board they *look* deep, but they soon become shallower when you radius and level for sure. Also, slots that are too narrow are better than too wide of course! That's just common sense. I've never had to bevel in the slots myself, but then again I used my drill press and the StewMac press cauls to do my fretting. Hammering throughout is a good art, but one I have no immediate or long term reason to learn unless I build tons more guitars/basses! I just hammer the edges slightly to overbend them :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted November 10, 2007 Report Share Posted November 10, 2007 I haven't had to level a fret job since my first...I really cocked that one up...but I don't bevel my slots.I never noticed a radius in the bottom of my fret crown that would cause a need for one...but I only use high quality ss fretwire...so maybe it has less of an obtrusion there...It seems that if your fret slots are slightly wider than your fret tang,then you won't have that issue anyway...the barbs are still plenty wide,as I think(from memory...it's been a while)I order .024 slots,and my tangs are something like .023...or something like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted November 10, 2007 Report Share Posted November 10, 2007 I always do a very tiny bevel on the fret slots, although it doesn't make much of a difference with properly size slots. No fretwire I've ever seen is perfectly 90 degrees, though. Takes less than a minute to do the entire board, so I figure, why not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soapbarstrat Posted November 10, 2007 Report Share Posted November 10, 2007 The beveled slot can also help avoid some fret-board chipping when the frets are pulled, but I don't rememer ever seeing beveled slots on factory fret-jobs (but I sure as heck don't see factory fret-jobs as the standard to live by). Harmony central photo looks like bevel is over-done in some areas, especially far end, left side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted November 10, 2007 Report Share Posted November 10, 2007 I guess with a proper tool,it would be a very easy step...I know when I pulled frets on a bocote board,I could have used a bevel,because the tearout was so bad I had to reradius my board and deepen the slots to fix it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanthus Posted November 12, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2007 So I pressed the frets in today, filing the slots with a triangular file. Everything went very smoothly, no problem frets, and as far as my eye and straightedge can tell, pretty damn level too. I'll need to get a precision straightedge to check them though. Tomorrow I'll cut the ends off with the dremel and build a beveling file to do the ends with. I'm also picking up my mahogany tomorrow to let it acclimate before I start building with it. Thanks for all the advice, everyone I really appreciated it. I'm hoping to get some pics of the procedure, or rather the finished product, up tomorrow or Tuesday. In other news, I'd really be grateful for anyone's input on this thread. Here is another pic showing what I'm talking about in that thread. I'm going to buy a bigger board of mahogany than I anticipated in case I decide to go with that style of neckthrough. Again, thanks for the help, everyone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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