Jump to content

First Double Cut Prs Ish Kill Em All Build


Recommended Posts

well, here is my next decided project. a prs type double cut solid body carved top. long name :D

this build is going to cost more than 2 and a half other guitars that i have built. i have no more spare parts or anything left, so i have to order every little part. but this is going to be an awesome build. check out the list

Ribbon grained african mahogany carved top body

Ribbon grained african mahogany neck

Zebrawood Fretboard

medium jumbo frets

Abalone Block inlays

abalone side dots

Satin or gloss?

All gold hardware

Built in distortion circut http://yhst-50206111187217.stores.yahoo.ne...mucihotrot.html

1 volume 1 tone 3 way toggle

tom bridge and stop tailpiece

battery box for batter powering distortion circut

strap locks

Seymour duncan distortion and 59' in zebra green and black, or zebra back and green.

should be a great build, i cant wait. if i have time, i will go pick out wood today. wish me luck

Template:

DCAM0064-3.jpg

http://www.psst.co.uk/americanguitars/phot.../PRS20mB500.jpg

Edited by killemall8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 112
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

make sure you measure that board until they will label a board 25.5 (or what ever) but it’s off. They have an extra fret at the nut end. Use the stewmac fret calculator before you start hacking on that board to verify this. I lost one to that. I cut it to length and realized that they add to both ends of the board to they could list the same board under multiple scales. All of the boards I got from them (5 in total) have been like that. It's actually what got me into making my own. I got tried of dealing with it. I'll never buy another board again!

Their stuff is nice but just watch that. They don’t tell you that when you buy them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

make sure you measure that board until they will label a board 25.5 (or what ever) but it’s off. They have an extra fret at the nut end. Use the stewmac fret calculator before you start hacking on that board to verify this. I lost one to that. I cut it to length and realized that they add to both ends of the board to they could list the same board under multiple scales. All of the boards I got from them (5 in total) have been like that. It's actually what got me into making my own. I got tried of dealing with it. I'll never buy another board again!

Their stuff is nice but just watch that. They don’t tell you that when you buy them.

im not sure what your saying the problem is. was the problem that you thought the zero fret was the first fret and cut the last frets to measure the zero fret? i have bought all of my fbs from them and havnt had a problem, besides the shipping freaking taking 2 weeks for it go get here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

what do you guys think of the template? does it look ok? thanks

It's not quite PRS, but if you are looking for an exact shape go here and scroll down: GuitarBuild

Look for the cad file called "PRS Hollowbody" It's not 100% but its damn close to PRS, just print it through turbocad.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

what do you guys think of the template? does it look ok? thanks

It's not quite PRS, but if you are looking for an exact shape go here and scroll down: GuitarBuild

Look for the cad file called "PRS Hollowbody" It's not 100% but its damn close to PRS, just print it through turbocad.

i dont think mine looks that much different at all compared to a prs. but i downloaded all of those already

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well, here is my next decided project. a prs type double cut solid body carved top. long name :D

this build is going to cost more than 2 and a half other guitars that i have built. i have no more spare parts or anything left, so i have to order every little part. but this is going to be an awesome build. check out the list

Ribbon grained african mahogany carved top body

Ribbon grained african mahogany neck

Zebrawood Fretboard

medium jumbo frets

Abalone Block inlays

abalone side dots

Satin or gloss?

All gold hardware

Built in distortion circut http://yhst-50206111187217.stores.yahoo.ne...mucihotrot.html

1 volume 1 tone 3 way toggle

tom bridge and stop tailpiece

battery box for batter powering distortion circut

strap locks

Seymour duncan distortion and 59' in zebra green and black, or zebra back and green.

should be a great build, i cant wait. if i have time, i will go pick out wood today. wish me luck

Template:

DCAM0064-3.jpg

Luck Wished :D

P.S. Not sure if your going for Khaya or Sapele, but if it is Khaya.. Try to get as smooth and even textured piece. Much of the strong ribbon looking(quartered displaying interlocked grain) has wide harder and softer areas that are a bear to carve(as well as likes to develop small fractures). It likes to get stringy when you are carving the back of the neck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well, here is my next decided project. a prs type double cut solid body carved top. long name :D

this build is going to cost more than 2 and a half other guitars that i have built. i have no more spare parts or anything left, so i have to order every little part. but this is going to be an awesome build. check out the list

Ribbon grained african mahogany carved top body

Ribbon grained african mahogany neck

Zebrawood Fretboard

medium jumbo frets

Abalone Block inlays

abalone side dots

Satin or gloss?

All gold hardware

Built in distortion circut http://yhst-50206111187217.stores.yahoo.ne...mucihotrot.html

1 volume 1 tone 3 way toggle

tom bridge and stop tailpiece

battery box for batter powering distortion circut

strap locks

Seymour duncan distortion and 59' in zebra green and black, or zebra back and green.

should be a great build, i cant wait. if i have time, i will go pick out wood today. wish me luck

Template:

DCAM0064-3.jpg

Luck Wished :D

P.S. Not sure if your going for Khaya or Sapele, but if it is Khaya.. Try to get as smooth and even textured piece. Much of the strong ribbon looking(quartered displaying interlocked grain) has wide harder and softer areas that are a bear to carve(as well as likes to develop small fractures). It likes to get stringy when you are carving the back of the neck.

a have used it on many builds, and have yet to have a problem. my les paul body was made of it, and my explorer's neck was made of it also.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This should be a cool project! I think the shape looks good...it doesn't look exactly the same as a PRS, but pretty close, just different enough to make the design more custom. :D Also, I haven't had a chance to order any fingerboards from that place yet, but they always seem to have a lot of really nice stuff. Good luck with the project!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

make sure you measure that board until they will label a board 25.5 (or what ever) but it’s off. They have an extra fret at the nut end. Use the stewmac fret calculator before you start hacking on that board to verify this. I lost one to that. I cut it to length and realized that they add to both ends of the board to they could list the same board under multiple scales. All of the boards I got from them (5 in total) have been like that. It's actually what got me into making my own. I got tried of dealing with it. I'll never buy another board again!

Their stuff is nice but just watch that. They don’t tell you that when you buy them.

Not sure what you're talking about, but when you order a slotted fingerboard, you specify the scale and number of frets you want . They don't randomly pick up a board and send it :D There's something you didn't get right. It's impossible to list the same fingerboard under multiple scales; the distance between each frets is different. When you add all the frets together, you get the total scale length of the board. You can't just take a 25.5 and hack it out to 24.75.

There's always extra wood behind the first fret, and at the end of the board. You do whatever you want with it. If you're talking about LMII or Stewmac, everything is clearly explained on their web site. They never cut a fingerboard to the exact length, because you may need the extra material.

Edited by MescaBug
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Luck with this project, man.

That freatboard its one of freele brothers products?

yup. they have good stuff, but they take forever to ship

I was thinking to buy some fretboards to that guy. He has very good prices.

Sorry for the offtopic (bah, its your thread anyway LOL).

The fretboards are accurate? And tell me about the wood quality please. Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Luck with this project, man.

That freatboard its one of freele brothers products?

yup. they have good stuff, but they take forever to ship

I was thinking to buy some fretboards to that guy. He has very good prices.

Sorry for the offtopic (bah, its your thread anyway LOL).

The fretboards are accurate? And tell me about the wood quality please. Thanks.

the quality from what i have seen ( 4 Fretboards) has been great. i dont know how accurate they are, im sure they are accurate. they are very thick though, usually around 1/4". lots of extra space around the zero fret, and after the 24th. that fretboard got taken before i could buy it. so i got another different one from them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's going to be a great project !!! I'm looking forward to seeing it finished.....

And you really work amazingly fast, so I'm sure we will not have to wait too long for that.

The template looks fine to me. The basic shape is there (more than enough), who cares if it's not exact, you're obviously not going for a clone anyway.

What kind of headstock are you planning to use on this one ?? The 3-D concept you used on the explorer with a different shape, perhaps ??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's going to be a great project !!! I'm looking forward to seeing it finished.....

And you really work amazingly fast, so I'm sure we will not have to wait too long for that.

The template looks fine to me. The basic shape is there (more than enough), who cares if it's not exact, you're obviously not going for a clone anyway.

What kind of headstock are you planning to use on this one ?? The 3-D concept you used on the explorer with a different shape, perhaps ??

thanks! i will probably have the whole guitar done very soon, minus the parts becuase they take a while to get here. hopfully the fretboard doesnt take to long to get here. that is the thing i need right away. i havnt really decided on a headstock shape yet. we will see. thanks again

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i think i will go with curly maple binding. but it wont be binding, i will cut through the sides of it. i have grown to not like binding anymore. i just like the way zebrawood would look with a nice figured maple binding.

neck blank being glued up:

DCAM0077-2.jpg

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb262/k.../DCAM0076-2.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please, please don't half arse the binding. It's one of the most wince inspiring things to ever appear on a guitar.

Either carry the fret ends through a plain borad, or bind it and undercut the ends, but for the love of god don't bind-then-slot.

Ugh.

alright fine then. i will just not bind it. i dont see what the big deal is about that. i just want the look of the maple binding, not the feel. but fine i wont do it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...