Omega Posted December 12, 2007 Report Posted December 12, 2007 After sanding down my Ibanez Wizard neck (maple), I applied three coats of 100% tung oil as the finish. It felt great for a while...but pretty much rubbed off after a couple of months of playing. Also, I didn't pore fill, so I can see the open pores, for what it's worth. Does anybobdy have any suggestions? I'd really want to get the same tung oil feel back, but I want it to last. Thanks. Quote
avengers63 Posted December 12, 2007 Report Posted December 12, 2007 After sanding down my Ibanez Wizard neck (maple), I applied three coats of 100% tung oil as the finish. It felt great for a while...but pretty much rubbed off after a couple of months of playing. Also, I didn't pore fill, so I can see the open pores, for what it's worth. Does anybobdy have any suggestions? I'd really want to get the same tung oil feel back, but I want it to last. Thanks. I tung oiled the neck of a kit guitar I built. I didn't notice the finish rubbing off, but then again, it was >7 years ago. It may be that tung oil isn't a "premanent" finish for highly touched surfaces. The bookcase I finished with T/U still has the same dull sheen it had when it was newly finished. Maybe the oil is still in the wood, but the surface has been smoothed by the friction of your hand. If nobody here can conclusively answer, try asking a local woodworking store. Quote
low end fuzz Posted December 12, 2007 Report Posted December 12, 2007 well, what is the brand you are using? the problem w/ ''tung oil'' is that theres a lot of things called tung oil 'real' tung oil (china) has a very sweet(?) smell and takes weeks/ months to tottally cure; then the minwax stuff which is actually varnish that has been diluted so much to make it able to be wiped on and cure fast; ive used it on necks too and ive had no big problems; but if you did use one of these 'fake' oils, the problem might be that being varish, it just sits on the wood and wears instead of penetrating and sealing deep in the wood; a good test for oil is to make a puddle in a dish and stick a tall cut off in it; leave it in there a day or so; if it is oil; the oil will travel all the way up thru the grain to the top; and it wont harden for quite a while Quote
low end fuzz Posted December 12, 2007 Report Posted December 12, 2007 oh and if it IS maple; you shouldnt be able to see pores? wernt wizard necks made outta bubinga or sumtin? Quote
Rick500 Posted December 12, 2007 Report Posted December 12, 2007 I'd use Minwax Tung Oil Finish. It's not pure tung oil, and will cure. I have several guitars with this finish on the neck, and no problems. Quote
thegarehanman Posted December 12, 2007 Report Posted December 12, 2007 Teak oil works really well and penetrates pretty deep into the wood as well, instead of just sitting on the surface. I really like how it makes rosewoods look and feel. It darkens them up a bit and feels smooth as silk. Quote
Omega Posted December 13, 2007 Author Report Posted December 13, 2007 Thanks for all the replies. The information really helps me out. The tung oil I used is from Woodcraft. Tung Oil I think I'll try adding multiple coats (10+) on my next go around and see what happens. If I'm still having the same problem, I'll try Minwax tung oil, as a few people suggested. Quote
al heeley Posted December 13, 2007 Report Posted December 13, 2007 I always use tru-oil for necks, it's a mix of tung oil and linseed with solvent and dryers that help penetrate and cure hard quickly. Rub on or wet sand in with 800 grit, give s a marvellous smooth sheen neck that will not rub off. Quote
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