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Curved Of Straight Spokeshave For Neck Shaping?


fyb

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ya cool; i like what your saying and how you do things, i like debating things for the sake of debate i guess;

i wasnt trying to beat a dead horse or call you idiots or catch any inconsistancies for evil intentions;

but thanks; this was fun :D

and your right about your 'mude point comment' i guess; i took it the wrong way ;

i look at it as not agreeing with something thats differnet from the point im trying to make; which in turn does sound kinda sel ritiuos.sorry

grant

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i think i am mostly using my japanese saw rasp at the moment. I do have a couple of spokeshaves but they dont come out often - might have to give them a good service and try them out again.... i generally go with whatever is closest to me and sharpest at the time i want to carve...i know its lazy but that sometimes rules out the spokeshave for me :D

Also, i do a lot of laminated necks and i am still paranoid about tear out from different grain directions on different woods... thats just a hang over from when i first started doing this and always had tear out from improperly sharpened tools - things tend to go a bit easier now i know more about tool care and maintenance

i used to have a carving knife which was a gerat tool but i havnt seen it in a while - must be hiding in some wood pile somewhere

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Thanks for the link, I knew it was familiar.

You do have to be careful from getting tear-out on certain woods when using a scraper or spokeshave. I couldn't use either of these tools when shaping my 6-string bass neck that has curly maple as a laminate. It'd take the other woods down pretty good, but would consistently catch on the curly maple and tear-out the grain a bit. Obviously the scraper wasn't as bad as the spokeshave, but it still tore the grain out.

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If you turn a sharp, fine hook on those, you should be able to scrape pretty much anything perfectly smooth, no tearout. Might need to adjust the angle and inclination of cut, but the scraper's what I always reach for when I'm shaping curly maple things (for example curly maple binding). Gotta be SHARP, though.

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It was definitely not on par with something I would consider "SHARP", I'll sharpen it to a different angle for curly / figured woods next time. Honestly, for a few $ it's one tool I regret not buying at an earlier time. The scraper is one hell of a useful tool.

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There are quite a few good scraper sharpening tutorials on the web (youtube, taunton, etc.) that might help; for coarse work, a filed edge (no turning) can work great, but is agressive and not very refined. Sqauring it off perfectly and then turning a hook should leave a little edge that you can cut yourself on if you slide it along your skin somewhere while not paying attention. THAT sharp.

Scrapers are great!

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