Rolled Fingerboard Edges?

[Azrael]

Up until recently, I had been setting aside money for an SG-ish build that had a bolt-on neck, which was to come from Musikraft.

However, I've decided to change it to a neck-through build. But I'd like to do my own fingerboard edges, like musikraft's:

https://musikraft.3dcartstores.com/Semi-Ver...s_c_16-1-1.html

How do I go about doing that? It looks really comfortable, and players who own it, that I've talked to, seem to love it.

[Telesque]

Up until recently, I had been setting aside money for an SG-ish build that had a bolt-on neck, which was to come from Musikraft.

However, I've decided to change it to a neck-through build. But I'd like to do my own fingerboard edges, like musikraft's:

https://musikraft.3dcartstores.com/Semi-Ver...s_c_16-1-1.html

How do I go about doing that? It looks really comfortable, and players who own it, that I've talked to, seem to love it.

I know I'm new here, but couldn't that just be done with a sandpaper sponge? Most fretboards are finished along the edges, even if they aren't across the playing surface, but is that a big concern if you're sanding the edge down?

[WezV]

its most commonly done with a sharp razor blade used as a scraper. Starting neary flat on the fretboard face, scraping a few times between the frets, re-angling it between each stroke till you have the blade nearly flat on the fretboard edge. Its simpler than i just described it so hopefully someone will come along and word it better

takes a little practice but once you get a feel for it you can zoom along

[j. pierce]

Granted, I've been working on bound boards, so maybe it's different, but when beveling the fret ends, I just keep going until the beveling file takes off a slight amount of the edge of the fingerboard as well. I smooth things out a bit with sandpaper over a sponge and the micromesh pads; just finish sanding, no real material removal, then move on to dressing the fret ends.

I could be misunderstanding, but the effect should be the same?

[Azrael]

^No, that sounds like it would work. I just wanted to double check, and make sure that way the best way to do it.

Edited January 7, 2008 by Azrael

[westhemann]

I use a sanding sponge...it works perfectly and takes about two minutes....After all of the fret dressing and all is done.

[scab]

Granted, I've been working on bound boards, so maybe it's different, but when beveling the fret ends, I just keep going until the beveling file takes off a slight amount of the edge of the fingerboard as well. I smooth things out a bit with sandpaper over a sponge and the micromesh pads; just finish sanding, no real material removal, then move on to dressing the fret ends.

I could be misunderstanding, but the effect should be the same?

I do pretty much the same thing.. I thought it was done on all guitars but basically i take a mill basterd file and file the edges @ an angle (about 30°) while doing that i continue the angle until approx. 1/32" of the fingerboard is also exposed on the chamfer..

regards,

Scab

[soapbarstrat]

You can lose some precious playing surface area on your frets if you include the frets with the "edge softening" process. Depends on how wide your neck is/ how close strings are to neck edges.

That link shows some good pics of it though. Everytime someone asks what the hell "rolled edges" are, they should be directed to those photos.

[Azrael]

^Luckily, I like semi-wide necks, so it shouldn't be a problem.

[killemall8]

i am missing this. what is the difference? i dont see a difference between that pic and any other fretboard.

[oz tradie]

i am missing this. what is the difference? i dont see a difference between that pic and any other fretboard.

The first pic has sharp f/board edges and the second has an arris rolled into it for comfort and feel.

It's all there.

cheers, Stu

[killemall8]

i am missing this. what is the difference? i dont see a difference between that pic and any other fretboard.

The first pic has sharp f/board edges and the second has an arris rolled into it for comfort and feel.

It's all there.

cheers, Stu

i still cant tell the differnce, they look identical to me

[WezV]

well its a subtle effect - but one that makes a big difference to feel!!

[scab]

well I know i haven't done a million of these things (refrets & building) but I have never had a problem w/ "loosing valuble fingerboard". It's very very miniscule, no more than 1/32" on each side. But I do respect your opinion. I really thought that this was industry standard, b/c it makes dressing the fret ends a breeze and feels soooo good

[westhemann]

You can lose some precious playing surface area on your frets if you include the frets with the "edge softening" process.

I bevel my fret ends way less than "industry standard",so I never have a problem.My strings don't slip off like they do sometimes on factory guitars.

I also use SS frets,so the sanding sponge barely affects them.It works very well.For me anyway.Only takes a few seconds each side of the neck with a fine sponge.

[Azrael]

^Well, ideally, the frets get affected too, I thought. That's why Musikraft does it after the necks are fretted.

[soapbarstrat]

I don't like the fret end bevel more than 35 degrees. And I guess when I soften the edge of the board (between the fret ends), that would be more like a 45 degree (although I'm not using a file, and not going about it the same way as beveling fret ends).

Did not mean you're certain to have a problem if you bevel hard into the board, but it's something to watch out for on a lot of common necks.

Back in the 80's , Chandler guitar parts had a few large boxes of "factory second" necks they were blowing out the door for $40 per neck. I bought one, and the only fault I could find is that the large frets had a 45 degree bevel, and the E strings would push right off the edge of the neck as soon as you tried to fret the string. These were wide Jackson copy necks and my bridge was a genuine Floyd.