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Two Pearloid Binding Questions


komodo
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Does anyone sell a b/p/b laminate?

Also, would such a sandwich show the pearloid effect on it's edge? I was thinking around a .020/.040/.020 or something like that. Maybe .030 all around. I was interested in getting a kind of thin black around a MOP type look, and would just go ahead and do the MOP, but this would be much easier. Maybe I can get some Abalam MOP strips? Any ideas?

THNX!

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No, the Pearloid binding will not do what you want it to (take the place of real MOP) inbetween black strips.

Pearloid binding is best used as the outside layer, and maybe an inside layer to compliment the outside.

There is a binding strip someone sells that has a 'pull out' channel in which you can insert real MOP strips, I think that is what you're looking for.

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No, the Pearloid binding will not do what you want it to (take the place of real MOP) inbetween black strips.

Pearloid binding is best used as the outside layer, and maybe an inside layer to compliment the outside.

There is a binding strip someone sells that has a 'pull out' channel in which you can insert real MOP strips, I think that is what you're looking for.

Ya I was kinda thinking that. I have a straight maple top and was going to do a simple one layer black binding . . . thought I could dress it up slightly by going b/w/b and the one step further by making it more MOP or Pearloid in the center . . .guess I'm mixing up binding and purfling . . .

I do know of the Teflon strips you speak of. Think I'll keep it simple and go one strip of black.

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Shell purf is not that tricky to install. All you need to do is route for the purfling and then route for your outer binding. You can buy an outer black strip of binding say 1/4" tall, Then use a black purfling strip for the inner edge (closer to 1/16" tall). You can install these strips with a teflon filler strip, and pull it out after you are done gluing. For simplicity sake just buy pre cut pearl strips (MOP supplies or Depaule have these). MOP supplies will sell them for about .30-.40 cents per. inch, for nice color matching and spare you could pick up 100" and have way more than you need. You simply break and miter the pieces so they fit together nicely, placing them in the void left by the teflon strip. You need to break and miter more around tight corners to get a smooth radius, but the majority of the curves are not too bad. Dry fit as you make all the pieces, then pull them out in order, and then place them for final install with glue (be sure to seal the channel with if you are using CA, and black glue filler will make it near impossible to detect any minor gaps between the inner and outer binding and shell).You can spend a few hours doing this, but the you will be very happy when you see the flash of the shell (there is no substitute).

Peace,Rich

P.S. When you buy pre cut shell strips feel free to use MOP, Abalone, Paua. The price per. inch is very close, so use exactly what you like :D

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Thanks so much for your clear instruct and advice. I won't go this route on this one (no pun intended) for a few reasons: I tried a few variations in the CAD version and just didn't like the total combo. My quilt top is so nice I am using restraint everywhere else to balance it and not make it over the top. There is another in the works that WILL use an abalone purfling just as you described, only inset inside the body a bit.

I could always change my mind, I do it about every 5 seconds. I am just going to call this one done as far as design and get it built. Believe me, I am not cutting any corners!

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