Bassisgreat Posted February 28, 2008 Report Share Posted February 28, 2008 (edited) Ummmm, meant to post this in Reference and tutorials... I'm going to put it there as well, and a kind mod can feel free to delete this version. Thanks! I don't know if this is useful to anyone or not, but I figured that since I've gotten so much useful info from this site that if I had ANYTHING to share, I'd pass it along. Maybe someone will be able to use it, who knows. Anyhow, I take the wood to be joined and if it doesn't already have a pretty close to straight line on the joining edge, I'll stack them with the surfaces to be jointed on one side and make the smallest possible rip with the tablesaw to flatten the edges. At that point, you'll be close to the perfect joint already, but the next step will ensure it. I then take the two boards and clamp them together (you can also stick them together with double-sided tape in between to avoid slipping) between two larger pieces of MDF with just about 1/8" of the edge to be jointed hanging out, as level as possible. Then you take a shooting stick (a flat, square board with sandpaper double-sided taped to it) and run it along the exposed edge until both sides are nice, flat and smooth. Then, when you take it out of the clamps, voila, a perfectly invisible seam! I'll be using this process to join a top that is too thin for me to be comfortable using a jointer, and I feel it gives a better join anyhow, if you're willing to expend the elbow grease! I can take pics of the process if anyone is interested in seeing them. Hope this helps somebody... Edited February 28, 2008 by Bassisgreat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stereordinary Posted February 29, 2008 Report Share Posted February 29, 2008 That seems like a great idea for figured woods that are, as you said, to thin to do comfortably on the jointer. Plus, the sandpaper is more benevolent to those woods. Props dude, props. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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