Bassisgreat Posted February 28, 2008 Report Posted February 28, 2008 (edited) I don't know if this is useful to anyone or not, but I figured that since I've gotten so much useful info from this site that if I had ANYTHING to share, I'd pass it along. Maybe someone will be able to use it, who knows. Anyhow, I take the wood to be joined and if it doesn't already have a pretty close to straight line on the joining edge, I'll stack them (using double-sided tape to avoid slipping) with the surfaces to be jointed on one side and make the smallest possible rip with the tablesaw to flatten the edges. At that point, you'll be close to the perfect joint already, but the next step will ensure it. I then take the two boards and clamp them together (you can stick them together with double-sided tape in between to avoid slipping) between two larger pieces of MDF with just about 1/8" of the edge to be jointed hanging out, as level as possible. Then I take a shooting stick (a flat, square board with sandpaper double-sided taped to it) and run it along the exposed edge until both sides are nice, flat and smooth. Then, when you take it out of the clamps, voila, a perfectly invisible seam! I'll be using this process to join a top that is too thin for me to be comfortable using a jointer, and I feel it gives a better join anyhow, if you're willing to expend the elbow grease! I can take pics of the process if anyone is interested in seeing them. Hope this helps somebody... Edited February 28, 2008 by Bassisgreat Quote
MescaBug Posted February 28, 2008 Report Posted February 28, 2008 I used to do something similar before I got my jointer. I routed the edge of the boards, using a straightedge and the router guide. Then taping some sandpaper on a flatboard and running the boards until it's square-flat. It can be as good as a jointer job. Takes more time. I mean, powertools are time-savers. There is always a way to do it manually when money is a concern. Quote
Bassisgreat Posted February 28, 2008 Author Report Posted February 28, 2008 yep, well I have access to a jointer, but for this top (about 3/16" thick) I think that this method will be safer. A sanding table is another way of effectively doing things. I had a shooting stick available, so that's what I used. Power tools are great! If you can afford them and the space they occupy! Quote
joshvegas Posted April 5, 2008 Report Posted April 5, 2008 large planes (stanley no. 7 types) thats what you want it'l give you perfect joint with a bit of practice and it's pretty fast too with way less mess than sanding. Quote
Daniel Sorbera Posted April 8, 2008 Report Posted April 8, 2008 +1 on the large hand planes. I don't use it on anything over 3/4" but anything under that is fair game. Quote
Mattia Posted April 8, 2008 Report Posted April 8, 2008 I joint all my electric body blanks (2" thick) with a combination of the 5 1/2 and my Steve Knight woodie. Quote
Bygde Posted April 9, 2008 Report Posted April 9, 2008 I have a jointer, but I think I'll use your method instead. Seems a lot safer than running a quilted maple top through a jointer Id like to request some photos though, just to see exactly how you do it. Quote
komodo Posted April 10, 2008 Report Posted April 10, 2008 I've done similar, by doublestick taping down a run of sandpaper on my table saw, then sandwiching the tops and carefully sanding the edge. if you tip it either way (easy to do) it's not as accurate. Also using a jointer plane, and using the table saw method. One of the best ever, is to clamp down your top with a 1/8" gap, then clamping another straightedge as a guide and using a 1/4" router bit down the seam. Any imperfection in the straightness is mirrored on the opposite piece and they fit together perfectly. You can actually route a wavy line and they fit perfectly. Quote
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