jonnyfontaine Posted March 4, 2008 Report Share Posted March 4, 2008 i was wondering is it a good idea to resaw wood for a carved top into wedge or with a slight taper, like the way volin tops are resawn... like having the table of a band saw set a few degrees tilted and resaw so when opened, bookmatched the center is thicker than the edges? thanks... i know this must be a silly question, so i apologize in advance for this... sorry, but thanks for all and any help... jonny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted March 4, 2008 Report Share Posted March 4, 2008 That would depend on how you are carving. If you are ruff shaping with a router, the taper could make shaping difficult (all depending on your setup). If you are using a hand plane for the job, it may give you a bit of a head start. If you are using a duplicarver or CNC, it probably will be a more efficient use of wood. All depends on how you are working the carve. Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted March 5, 2008 Report Share Posted March 5, 2008 It won't save wood if you have sqaure billets to begin with and you want a bookmatch. I also find them more annoying to carve than square billets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonnyfontaine Posted March 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2008 what if you got a board that is slightly thinner than 1" and you want to get a top that is about 5/8" in the center and 1/4" on the edges... if you resaw to equal sides than you couldn't quite get 5/8" on boths sides but if you cut in a taper you'd be almost there... but i'm asking this as a question not a statement... i'm new to this so i'm sure i'm probably wrong somehow... please educate me... thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orgmorg Posted March 5, 2008 Report Share Posted March 5, 2008 You could do that, but it wouldn't bookmatch, and you'd have to make a super accurate smooth cut to get those size pieces out of that 1" board. And, if it cups at all after resawing ( it probably will ) you will lose thickness there. Then, after you join them you will have to plane the back flat, losing some more thickness. Even if you get all that done with minimal loss of thickness, you will find that your thickest point ( by now 1/2" ) is in the very middle, and where the carve starts to top out is actually more like 3/8" thick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted March 5, 2008 Report Share Posted March 5, 2008 Yes, you could, but you wouldn't get bookmatched sides - which is the whole point of resawing a top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonnyfontaine Posted March 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2008 ok, great thanks so much for clearing it up... i just realized that violins don't have book matched spruce tops, so thanks to all for the advice, thanks jonny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted March 5, 2008 Report Share Posted March 5, 2008 Yes, they do. Most violin wedges come from split wegdes of spruce, which are already wedge shaped (and are sold as a single wedge shaped billet) that you split or resaw down the middle, into two bookmatched wedges. It's not necessary with spruce, really, not in small pieces like that where you can quite easily get bits of wood with even grain along the width, but it is common. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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