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Posted

I've heard that to get good intonation on a tunomatic you need to set the bass side 10mm back from the treble. But drawing out my plans now, I see that (using a compass) the bass side moves 1mm towards the treble side. Am I meant to move the whole thing 0/5 mm towards the bass side or is it not that important?

Posted (edited)

10mm is way too much. 1/8" should be well enough for a good intonation. Don't go under 1.5mm.

It depends on what type of tune-o-matic you're using. Some have more saddle travel than other, which can compensate for a bad bridge location.

Edited by MescaBug
Posted

There is no 'specific' distance. I would say don't go less than 1.5", and make sure you have enough distance so the strings don't touch the tailpiece. Too much distance will look odd, and you'll have a bad string angle between the bridge and the tailpiece.

Posted

to ride on this topic, I found out that my intonation isn't completely what it's supposed to be on my thick E string, it sounds to high when I press the 5th fret. Just because I haven't tried anything yet and noticed this topic, do I have to move the saddle more to the bridge side or more to the neck side?

Cheers

Posted
to ride on this topic, I found out that my intonation isn't completely what it's supposed to be on my thick E string, it sounds to high when I press the 5th fret. Just because I haven't tried anything yet and noticed this topic, do I have to move the saddle more to the bridge side or more to the neck side?

Cheers

flat= bring saddle to fretboard side

sharp= bring to body side.

Posted

The best way to layout a TOM is to fit your tailpiece, or through body ferrules, then sit the bridge in place and string up. You can place your saddle in the middle of the range of travel, then shuffle the bridge around until alignment and intonation are spot on for the two E strings. Mark the spot with a bradawl, and you're all set to drill for the studs.

Posted (edited)
The best way to layout a TOM is to fit your tailpiece, or through body ferrules, then sit the bridge in place and string up. You can place your saddle in the middle of the range of travel, then shuffle the bridge around until alignment and intonation are spot on for the two E strings. Mark the spot with a bradawl, and you're all set to drill for the studs.

This is basically how I do it also. The difference is that I made a wood tailpiece jig with the proper string spacing. I clamp it to the body in the proper position and then I line up the bridge the way Setch describes. I only use th tailpiece jig when I do through body ferrules.

Jeff

Edited by six_stringer
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