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router tutorial


krazyderek
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Router Tutorial

Ok there's about 70 pics and 4 pages in total. Hope it helps some poeple out.

It's come to my attention that alot of newbs don't really have a clue how to use a router or are just left with alot of questions from the current tutorials. This also pertaining to the fact that we should probably have a FAQ section or a "first time builders" tutorial... something that covers every aspect in great detail, along with costs, and several alternatives and options depending on ur situation. No offence inteneded here or anything, i myself spent many a night trying to figure out how to use it safely and practically, and i'd just like to help people out with a couple/several/alot of pics and some explinations for people that are just starting out.

So i was going to do up a tutorial on basic use for routing all parts of the guitar, and template making. I was also going to a list of bits required, and some recomended bits along with their use, and suggested ways to do the same thing without the bit (ex: rounding over the edge of the guitar). Also the ups and downs for each, the costs associated, and what u get for ur money (ex: difference between high quality and low quality bits). Why predilling is a good idea and how to do it, and how to set up ur router for use with templates, free hand routing, and table routing.

just wondering if someone already has something like this done up and just never offered it up for the PG tutorial section, or any aditional info u guys should be listed?

Edit* Done, See above ^

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Good call. The first time I tried to use one was to route a neck pocket. Thankfully I figured it would be a good idea to practise on a 2x4 first. I used a plunge router and used the depth stop but stopped at the full depth of the pocket! :D I was randomly plunging away like a bat out of hell, until the smoke started...

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Do you have a format already in mind or would you like to assemble something from input from forum members? Theres lots of common sense involved and we should all admit that we still have lots to learn in this area, especially where safety is concerned. I use a 2 speed spinsaw with freehand and plunge router attachments. I only have experience at routing mahogany and noticed it can be soft and brittle when routing. I got the best results operating at the higher speed (30,000 rpm) with new bits. I never routed deeper than 1/2" in one pass. I found its much easier to control. If you don't have a template for whatever cavity you are making the least you could do is setup a straightedge for a guide on the longer sections. oh, one more thing, good bits are EXPENSIVE! If ya buy cheap you will get cheap.

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k i'll bug my friend for his camera....

format well..... basicly just what i said in the first post... but i also want to include any info u guys think i may have forgotten... oh ya. i never make passes deeper then 1/4" at a time.... takes a bit longer but much safer, easier to control, less/no burning and less of a problem if u make a mistake.

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Derek,

If you are going to do this, can you include a description of the different types of routers (fixed, and plunge)? I remember someone on this site getting ready to build something like 5- 10 guitars, had a full shop, ... but laughed at the idea of using a plunge router - not knowing what it was. Others have been confused about this but that one sticks out in my mind.

I'm sure you will also talk about using templates, right?

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yuppers, i might actually make a couple short clips demonstrating the use of a plung vs fixed.... and of course templates :D

i think i'm going to do a 4 or 5 page tutorial... break it up into sections maybe?

The 2 types + hand held vs table mount ,

required & suggested bits ,

using templates & guides,

making your own templates,

pricing + best value for your money

looking for some recomendations for the pricing and best value stuff.... like BARE MINIMUM what bits to have, obviously a template bit (big & small) and maybe one 1/2" flush trim as big as u can get it... i think that could do almost everything maybe even minus the flush trim if it's not a trem guitar.

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Well i started typing up the tutorial figuring out all the pics i'll need... please critique... it's kinda feeling like an essay :D is it to long in some parts?

tutorial draft

*****EDIT****

Ok here's how it's looking right now for any one actually keeping track, god bless front page, it sourced all the pictures automatically!!!!!(let me know if the pics aren't actually showing up for you, looking for any and all feedback on the written part so far!!

hope you guys like it

Router Tutorial

Figured out how to link and stuff

the last page, "pricing" is still in the works.

Edited by krazyderek
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Ok here's how it's looking right now for any one actually keeping track, god bless front page, it sourced all the pictures automatically!!!!!(let me know if the pics aren't actually showing up for you, looking for any and all feedback on the written part so far!!

hope you guys like it

Router Tutorial

Figured out how to link and stuff

the last page, "pricing" is still in the works.

Edited by krazyderek
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If you can afford it, I recommend a large (15 + lbs) Porter Cable (PC) Speed- O-Matic. This is a 5-speed router that allows you to slow down (significantly) the bit speed, reducing burning dramatically, not to mention chip-out due to wood-grain irregularities, and a lower speed is easier to handle. PC equipment isn't cheap but it's well worth the investment (kind of a third-generation tool - first you buy your Craftsman's, then you upgrade to Makita or Freud, finally you break down and buy what you really want/need - professional grade tools - better to skip the beginning and intermediate steps/cost). Think I paid $350.00 for mine; however, it's made all the difference in world with both cabinetry and guitar projects. Freud also makes a 3.5 horsepower 5-speed router (with plunge capability) for considerably less, if money is a factor.

Can't stress enough pre-drilling your pockets - if you have access to a drill press - stick a 1/2 or 3/4 inch forstner bit in it and "hog out" as much wood as possible - your route can then be done in one pass/one depth-of-cut, and you won't burn the wood or your bit (or throw the piece across the room, as 3.5 hrs-pwr routers have been known to do!!). (Personally, I pre-drill my pockets and then used a 1/2 inch japanese chisel to square and clean them out - but hey, I'm a fanatic about wood-working that way!)

Great tutorial - especially the focus on safety. Ever seen a shirt sleave (or any other material) get caught in a router spinning at 3600 RPMs? Not a pretty sight.

Look forward to the finished product;

hope this helps,

Larry

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If you can afford it, I recommend a large (15 + lbs) Porter Cable (PC) Speed- O-Matic. This is a 5-speed router that allows you to slow down (significantly) the bit speed, reducing burning dramatically, not to mention chip-out due to wood-grain irregularities, and a lower speed is easier to handle. PC equipment isn't cheap but it's well worth the investment (kind of a third-generation tool - first you buy your Craftsman's, then you upgrade to Makita or Freud, finally you break down and buy what you really want/need - professional grade tools - better to skip the beginning and intermediate steps/cost). Think I paid $350.00 for mine; however, it's made all the difference in world with both cabinetry and guitar projects. Freud also makes a 3.5 horsepower 5-speed router (with plunge capability) for considerably less, if money is a factor.

hope this helps,

Larry

can i quote you on that for the pricing page?

thanks for the input, i'm glad we both see eye to eye on pre drilling,

got the last of the pics done, working on the last 2 pages right now while i have supper

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While you eat... you're a mad-man. Of course, I'm into my 3rd Martini, so take whatever I say (from here on out) with a grain of salt (and an olive)...

Quote me on price? No - bought mine about 4 years ago - haven't looked back, especially at prices. I could retire on what I've spent on power tools over the years. BUT, I'd be interested to know if you find out what they cost (If you need a quote I can get you one - but I need some time, week or so).

Larry

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While you eat... you're a mad-man. Of course, I'm into my 3rd Martini, so take whatever I say (from here on out) with a grain of salt (and an olive)...

Quote me on price? No - bought mine about 4 years ago - haven't looked back, especially at prices. I could retire on what I've spent on power tools over the years. BUT, I'd be interested to know if you find out what they cost (If you need a quote I can get you one - but I need some time, week or so).

Larry

not so much the actual price, but what to buy, ie a good router that'll last long vs. one time use router that falls apart a week later

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Krazy,

Oh, absolutely! I use Porter Cable hand (power) tools exclusively. They're extremely well made, will last a lifetime, incorporate very little plastic (if any) and make up the most common brand name you'll see on Norm Abraham's "New Yankee Workshop!" (Norm uses only the best, but don't use his woodworking as an example of fine craftsmanship - different subject, different forum.)

In all seriousness, you'll pay 10 - 20% more for the PC name, but you get a tool that's twice the quality of their competition. The Speed-O-Matic router is a perfect example - nobody comes close to matching their quality on heavy-duty routers... I own 3 today and have owned at least half a dozen in the past, so I speak from experience.

Please let me know if I can be of further assist... I'll look at your tutorial in earnest tomorrow eve (getting late - big day tomorrow) and will let you know if I think of anything else pertinent to the cause.

Larry

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