Refinishing With Alsa Corp Chrome Spray

[cukaracha]

Hi. This question has probably been asked before, but due to time constrain, i can't search for them one by one, so pls help me out here.

So heres the deal.

I'd like to know how exactly i should spray it on; how far away from the surface, at what angle, dry/wet coats, how many passes/layers, how long between layers, how long to leaveit alone before buffing, etc etc. I'd like to be sure that the result will be a mirror-like surface, or close to it, if not perfect. Also, should i clear coat it after i'm through?

as you can plainly see, i'm quite new at this. the first refinish i did came far from perfect but was still usable, so i'd like 2 be sure this time, since 1 can of that chrome spray costs a bomb..

Thanks in advanced.

[syxxstring]

It goes on better with a gun I can tell you that for sure.

As far as distance etc... Read their instructions.

HOK's cosmic chrome is lot less fussy, but requires a spray gun.

The Alsa rep the demonstrated their chrome to me just lightly and quickly dusted it on.

[Batfink]

You must clear over their chrome paint otherwise it darkens and comes of if you rub it.

[cukaracha]

Just a couple of quick questions. Will i need a black base coat before spraying on the chrome? also, should i sand the chrome smooth, appply 1 last layer and then clear coat? or should i not sand the chrome layer at all?

Pls reply me asap.. i really need the answers to these questions.

thanks in advanced.

Edited April 4, 2008 by cukaracha

[Prostheta]

IIRC, yes are recommended a black base coat.

[gedlee]

Just a couple of quick questions. Will i need a black base coat before spraying on the chrome? also, should i sand the chrome smooth, appply 1 last layer and then clear coat? or should i not sand the chrome layer at all?

Pls reply me asap.. i really need the answers to these questions.

thanks in advanced.

Yes you do need to apply a black base coat first and then apply the chrome. Do not sand the chrome. See ALSA's web site for directions on how to apply. They have a video demo of how to apply it.

[syxxstring]

Just follow the video. They demonstrated it for me at sema and did what the video shows.

Yes it needs to be over a CLEARED and POLISHED black finish.

Then you let it sit 3 days they told me and then clear it. Try to keep it as sealed as possible for the 3 days so you have very little dust to blow and tack off.

[mlennon]

Here's a stage by stage example of refinishing using chrome effect paint-sorry it's not a guitar.

Start by applying a gloss black undercoat, once dry flatten with 1200 grit (or finer) and polish to a high gloss. This example was a partial alloy wheel repair which happens to show the colour match to the oem wheel.

When applying the "Chrome" set the gun up so that very little material is sprayed but with a reasonably high air pressure, It's surprising how well the chrome covers the black as it's very thin. Apply as many coats as required to get the finish your looking for- leaving enough time to flash off between coats.

With alsa's mirror chrome you then buff the dusty overspray off to get a excellent chrome effect. This does not apply to Alsa's less expensive Chrome paints - nor the one I use (Lechler's Sparkling Glass) which has a slightly less chrome like finish.

With Alsa's mirror chrome, I recall the data sheet saying to leave 14 days before applying clearcoat, which is one reason I don't use it for alloy wheels.

The Clearcoat is the critical stage, you may find that you completely spoil the chrome effect as soon as the clearcoat is applied due to the solvent causing the chrome to refloat resulting in a metallic silver effect as oposed to chrome. The answer to this is to allow enough time for the solvents to completely flash off and use a ultra high solid clearcoat. I was blown away with the results of Alsa's mirror chrome (as I would expect as It retails at £1300 per Gallon in the UK) but I didn't wait more than a weekend before spoiling it with my standard clearcoat and I havent purchased any more than the 100ml sample. The product I regularly use is comparable to Alsa's Ghost Chrome and works well for me at the expense of some brightness.

[cukaracha]

Thanks a lot for all the replies. They really helped n i really appreciate it.

But about the not using regular clear spray to clear coat it. What then should i use and how should i apply it?

Also, i don't quite understand the part about buffing off the chrome layer. How will that form a flat, smooth and reflective surface? What and how should i buff? What if i clear coat the chrome and then sand and buff it? Will that work?

Sorry for asking so many questions, but i'm really new to this and theres a lot of things i'm uncertain about.

Thank for all your help in advanced.

[Prostheta]

I believe the buffing is to remove loose flake/material from the surface.

[mlennon]

Sorry if my explanation wasn't clear, the new series of Criminal Minds was about to start in the UK!!!

With Alsa mirror chrome, your left with a fine layer of dusty paint particles on the surface. after a few minutes this can be "buffed" off with a soft dry cloth and your left with a very bright and smooth surface (watch the alsa video to see what I mean).

I mentioned that the clearcoat was critical as I spoiled a couple of test panels which were looking stunning prior to the clearcoat being applied. I called the Alsa distributer in the uk for advice and he correctly guessed that I didn't leave the panels for long enough before Clearcoating and he also suggested using an ultra high solid clear.

If you want to spray this stuff yourself, budget for a good few test pieces to ensure you get the best possible results on your project. Its not easy and very expensive to use/mess up but Alsa's premium chrome finish is by far the best I've seen.

[Prostheta]

Has anyone got any long-term durability comments on the Alsa Chrome? I gather that the dynamic flexible nature of wood between seasons can cause all kinds of problems with these finishes.

[mlennon]

Long term results would be hard to guess, obviously wood shrinks & swells so you may get cracking of the finish. which is desirable to some!

I've just checked the Alsa site again and they now sell a 1k clear for the Mirrachrome, which kinda knocks my theory about the solvents on its head, they do recommend a 2k clear on top of that for durability.

I think I'll buy another sample kit to try again.

Cukaracha - I think your going to need $350 worth of product for your guitar, if you stick to Alsa's kit, which is what I'd suggest.

[Maiden69]

$350 is a bit too much, he will need 4 cans, black base, 2 cans 1K lightning clear and the (Mirra chrome, ghost chrome) chrome paint. As they mention you need to use the Speed clear if you want an automotive finish. At $40 a pop, it is a bit expensive but if you plan on only doing 1 paint job a year it is not too bad.

[cukaracha]

As a matter of fact, i will be doing this refinish throughout the course of the year since i'm in absolutely no hurry and i don't plan on screwing it up. in fact, i plan to give it like 2 months between the chrome layer and clear so that i'm absolutely sure its ready. a bit too long, but i'm guessing a little excessive precaution couldn't hurt.

Actually i'd like to ask about the spraying over a polished surface; would the spray bond well on a polished surface? or should i just sand it up to 1500 and then spray the chrome over?

and about the polish; how good is turtle wax swirl and haze remover and polishing compound when it comes to guitar refinishing?

Also, i think i should point out that i DO NOT have a spray gun and therefore will be using the ready-to-use can form of the chrome spray. from a few test sprays that i did, i see that the chrome doesn't spray on completely flat. the surface is very uneven. this is probably due to my spraying or some other reasons and thus i'm wondering how can i make sure that it is sprayed on perfectly (as far as possible) flat and smooth as possible.

since sanding it isn't an option, i'm wondering if i can just clear coat it and then sand the clear to give a flat surface. and what is 'ultra high solid clear'? can't i just use regular clear but spray it on really carefully (i'm not even sure what is defined as 'carefully'..)?

Thanks a lot for all the help.

[mlennon]

Your right to question spraying on top of a polished surface, it goes against everything you'll read about spraypainting. The surface does, in this case, need to be polished to a high gloss as the chrome paint is so thin it will not cover the flatting marks left by even 1500 (polishing is not required if the gloss black undercoat is perfectly smooth &free from flaws such as dirt nibs etc.) Adhesion would normally be a concern but in this case it's the process recommended by the manufacturer, so try to follow their instructions to the letter.

Swirl & haze remover is a finishing wax/glaze and probably not the best product to use, look for a "finishing compound" 3m & Farecla are the best known in the UK

To get the best results from spraycans will require a little trial & error. Temperature makes a big difference, with better performance when the cans are warm. If it's cold where you are let the cans sit in warm water for a while before spraying, you will notice this helps.

I'm not sure if I'm leading you down the wrong path by suggesting an Ultra high solid clear, which is just a clear with less solvent to evaporate. Alsa provide a 1k clear in their kit which is normally the total opposite to high solid products so once again I'd stick with their recommended system.

Hope this helps

[cukaracha]

Ok, so that makes things a lot clearer. Thanks a lot for all the help so far.

But about the clear coat; can i just use regular clear but spray it on in very dry passes for the first few times until theres a reasonable layer over it. then i continue with the regular passes. would that work?