Normal Vs. Low-angle Planes

[davewarner]

I'm moving along with processing the lumber for my first guitar and so far have succeeded in building a darn-handy thickness planing jig for my router. In looking ahead to future steps where I'm expecting to need a spokeshave, block plane, and perhaps a smoothing plane. What I'm uncertain about is if a normal or a low-angle spokeshave/plane is better suited for typical guitar construction needs (neck shaping, fitting for glue-ups, etc.).

I've searched the boards and read many posts about planes in general, merits of low-cost vs. high-cost, setup tips, etc, but have not come across a discussion comparing the advantages/disadvantages of normal vs. low-angle planes. There was a mention of low-angle planes being better suited for end-grain work ... and if that's the case what is the downside?

I would really appreciate any thoughts and insight you guys can provide on the merits of normal vs. low-angle planes and spokeshaves. In the meantime I'll continue practicing with my cabinet scrapers and making lots of sawdust with the thickness planer.

[update: was searching the web over the lunch hour and came upon this thread, http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php...9112#post649112

sound like you can do quite a lot with the bevel-up smoother or jack plane and a selection of blades. Still interested in the opinions from the builders here.]

Thanks!

Dave

Edited April 3, 2008 by davewarner

[Woodenspoke]

If you dont have power tools for milling and you like exotic woods a low angle plane is best. I dont know of one plane which will do everything but I'm old school so what do I know.

[wohzah]

I posted a similar post in a thread where a guy was asking about rasps. For neck and some body shaping I use a microplane rasp, works like a charm.

[Mattia]

Most places I've seen reccomend a high angle (York pitch) plane for curly/difficult to plane woods. A bevel up style plane (like the Veritas ones) with a couple of different blades would be a good option. I only recently got a low angle plane (a Lie Nielsen adjustable mouth block), and that's the only low angle plane I plan to keep. Haven't noticed a distinct advantage over my regular angle stanley - I mean, it adjusts better and cuts better and the blade is much, much easier to get sharper and stays sharper longer, but the regular angle block works fine as well.

[davewarner]

I'm starting to lean towards the bevel-up option for a general purpose jack plane, as I've heard some of the same things regarding the flexibility they offer via swapping blades with various cutting bevels. Still trying to decide on a spokeshave.

For others who come across this thread and are looking for information on planes take note of this link:

http://www.cianperez.com/Wood/WoodDocs/Woo...NDEX_How_To.htm

Thanks

[bentwood999]

I dont know about that- the planes now a day are going belly up oh im sorry wrong type o plane my bad

HI EVERYONE im back!!!!!!!!!!! sorry i was away for some time finishing up all loose ends after Christmas (yes thats right) good to be back

[Woodenspoke]

Most places I've seen reccomend a high angle (York pitch) plane for curly/difficult to plane woods. A bevel up style plane (like the Veritas ones) with a couple of different blades would be a good option. I only recently got a low angle plane (a Lie Nielsen adjustable mouth block), and that's the only low angle plane I plan to keep. Haven't noticed a distinct advantage over my regular angle stanley - I mean, it adjusts better and cuts better and the blade is much, much easier to get sharper and stays sharper longer, but the regular angle block works fine as well.

I have a Stanley low angle block and I would certainly not use it for figured wood. However I have seen demos at wood shows with the much longer low angle Lie Nielsen Jack and the results were amazing. I also believe they used a 45 deg angled stroke to the board as well. With a small block you really don't get the same cutting force out of the blade as I can attest to. I will assume the newer models from veritas the bevel up low angle Jack and Jointer will provide similar results. I don't own any of these models but can only comment from demos I have seen done on figured wood.

I dont see any downside except price. What works on difficult grain should also work on normal grain and end grain. If you have a good selection of power tools end grain is less of a concern for most builders.

Edited April 24, 2008 by Woodenspoke