Tune-o-matic Bridge Positioning And Angling

[Donut Man]

Hey guys,

I'm just about the drill out for the bridge on my V build, and I'm slightly unsure about the positioning of the bridge. I understand that the position of the saddles has to match the scale length of the instrument for good intonation.

But the TOM bridge seems a little confusing, I've never installed one before, only standard fixed bridges. I've already partially routed a recess, but I think it might be a little far back. Currently it measures 25.5" from the zero fret to the front of the recess on the treble side, and it is a few mm further back on the bass side. But I realised that the saddles do not reach the front edge of the bridge. So should I extend the recess towards the nut slightly?

How exactly does the measurement of 25.5" inches related to the position of the bridge? Is it 25.5" from the middle of the nut to middle of the bridge with 1/2 adjustment space on each side? Or 25.5" on the treble side to the middle of the saddle? Or something else?

Cheers,

Joe

[killemall8]

did you do a search? there are plenty of threads out there that have been answered. most of the questions were worded exactly the same as yours. you want to measure from the END of the body side of the nut, and where the string contacts the saddle. but it should be at 25.5 on the D and G strings, a a little further on the bass strings, and a little closer on the B and high E strings.

[Donut Man]

did you do a search? there are plenty of threads out there that have been answered. most of the questions were worded exactly the same as yours. you want to measure from the END of the body side of the nut, and where the string contacts the saddle. but it should be at 25.5 on the D and G strings, a a little further on the bass strings, and a little closer on the B and high E strings.

I did do a search, and got exactly that information. Nobody seems to have definitive answers on exactly how much "a little further" and "a little closer" it should be. And also, I should probably mention It's a 7 string, and I use very thick 7th strings (at least a .65, sometimes up to a .70), that seem to require a lot of adjustment on my other 7 string.

Edited April 23, 2008 by Donut Man

[killemall8]

in all threads it is pretty specific. 1/16" to 1/8" further back on the bass side. you can alway use THIS to find the exact location for any bridge

[Woodenspoke]

in all threads it is pretty specific. 1/16" to 1/8" further back on the bass side. you can alway use THIS to find the exact location for any bridge

Why cant you take the string lenght off your other 7 string? Does not matter what bridge you used.

[killemall8]

in all threads it is pretty specific. 1/16" to 1/8" further back on the bass side. you can alway use THIS to find the exact location for any bridge

Why cant you take the string lenght off your other 7 string? Does not matter what bridge you used.

i have no idea what you mean by that, or why you said that.

[black_labb]

im pretty sure he meant that if you measure the length of the string (saddle to nut) you can get an idea where the saddle will be. things like action and string gauge will change it a bit, but this will give an idea.

[jmrentis]

Yeah, I think he was basically saying to Donutman, since he already has a 7 string to use as comparison, why not just copy the measurements. For example by taking the length of from the nut to the saddle on the lowest string and then the highest string, then you have the measurements of what a 7 string bridge placement should be. As killemall said I've seen both 1/16" and 1/8", I would say I have seen a 1/8 more commonly though and is what I would use. J

[fryovanni]

in all threads it is pretty specific. 1/16" to 1/8" further back on the bass side. you can alway use THIS to find the exact location for any bridge

Why cant you take the string lenght off your other 7 string? Does not matter what bridge you used.

i have no idea what you mean by that, or why you said that.

If he has intonated his 7 string properly, and he intends to use the same gauge strings, and similar action(seems like that would be a reasonable assumption if he has set his other seven up as he likes them, or at least as good or better than generic info). Stew Mac is referencing a 6 string bridge(about 1/8th sounds right for a 6). The larger 7th string will need more length, but I am not sure exactly how much(never built a 7 string, or checked a properly intonated one), so I am not sure if that would allow enough adjustment.

If you have numbers from your 7 string projects, maybe you could share your info(string gauge, tuning, action, and length of your intonated lowest string nut to saddle). Did you set back your TOM's 1/8" and it worked out fine?

EDIT;

I did do a search, and got exactly that information. Nobody seems to have definitive answers on exactly how much "a little further" and "a little closer" it should be. And also, I should probably mention It's a 7 string, and I use very thick 7th strings (at least a .65, sometimes up to a .70), that seem to require a lot of adjustment on my other 7 string.

This is why it is better to refer to your instruments. You know your preferences.

Edited April 24, 2008 by fryovanni

[djhollowman]

I'm making a 7 string with a TOM at the mo' as well.

I used the calculation on StewMac's site to plot on the guitar body where the treble side post would lie, and then worked out how much to move the bass side "back from centre". To do this I used the measurement from the StewMac site to give me the position of where the low E string will be, and simply "extended" the line (cos it's a 7 string) to plot out where the bass side post will be. So it is slightly further back than where a 6-string version would be, but that's what you'd expect right??

The only other 7-string I have for comparison here has a Floyd, but even so I compared string length anyway and it's good!

I don't have this guitar strung up and played yet, so I don't know how well it plays or intonates.

Hope this helps!

DJ