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Wood For Body. How?.....

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Hi everyone, I am Mike and I am from Czech Republic (Everybody Knows).

Here we are a bit guitar backward, that is why I need help. Is here somebody,

who have experience with drying wood own way? That is to say here in Czech

doesn't exist some shop, where I can buy wood for guitar body. So if somebody helps me....

....Thanks :D

(sry for English :D )


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Any place that carries hardwoods (and I know for a fact that some of the Euro maple that goes around is logged in that part of europe, likely also in the Czech republic, ditto spruce) should have something suitable for a solidbody. Otherwise you have quite a few German suppliers out there (I think I listed a few in the pinned topic on EU suppliers, and googling tonewood germany should get you a few more) that will ship your direction.

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yes, I know about some german shops but they are so expensive to me. I am a sutent, you know :D

therefore I have decided to dry wood...maybe not enought good idea... I thinking yet :D

ok, if you find some links to shops around Czech Rep. , write

thank you kindly

Edited by MikeCooley
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A few things to consider when drying wood.

1. It takes a LONG time. We're talking a year minimum. Because you want it to dry slowly so the wood fibers stabilize, or else you get checking and splitting.

2. It takes a humidity and temperature controlled environment. Do you have the space to set this process up?

3. Since it'll take a year minimum before your wood is ready to cut up, would you be done with school by then? If you're serious about building a good guitar, you should be serious about the time and money you have to invest. Which is more important to you? Saving the cash, or saving the time?

To me, it's worth doing some lengthy searching for a wood supplier, who would have an already dried and properly kilned body blank. That guarantees the wood isn't poor for a guitar. So, what if you wait the wood-drying time, and just save up some cash slowly? Then you can invest on quality wood, without all the possible problems you could run into.

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More likely to be closer to two years. If you own a mill, and have logs, have the space, are willing to put in some work. It is worth while if you want to use a lot of the wood or can sell the extra, and recoupe some of your expense. You will only get a certain percentage of the wood that would be suitable for instruments(assuming you have fairly good logs to work with), so it is really more worth while if you have an outlet for the extra lower grade wood. If you have a mill though, and tooling to process logs I am sure you know all of this already.

After you have dropped and cleaned up the log and extra limb wood and what not. De-bark the log, seal the end grain if your waiting a spell to mill it. Mill the log, stack and sticker the log in a dry well ventilated area, be sure the end grain is well sealed. Let it set for about a year per. inch.(couple years for 8/4 stock, give or take 6 months depending on your climate),maybe check up on it to make sure bugs are not making it their new home. When it gets down around 12-14% moisture content, you can bring it into a warmer heated space, and bring it on down to around 6-8%(air drying 8/4 stock should take about 6 months give or take a couple months). Then you can plane the wood to square up the warpage, twisting and uneven shrinkage. Then you can start thinking about making a body blank.

For one body blank this would be a silly process. A kiln dried piece of Alder, Maple, Ash, or Khaya that you can hand select to get just what you want will run between $3-7 bd. ft(body takes about 4bd. ft.) at least that is retail in my area. If your lumber retails for twice that in your area, it is still not worth going through all that work for one blank.


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Ok, you right. This is quite silly thing....

I removing wood drying from my secret list :D

So, I see. I must buy some piece by internet probably from germany... ok

have you got any liks? any .....good, special and secret links :D

meanwhile I will checkout google

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