Set Neck 1 Pickup Dilemma

[Dirge for november]

For my next project I'm going to try my hand on building a set neck. The project is going to have 1 p-90 in the bridge position (and a wraparound bridge, you can see this is inspired by the lp junior).

To make sure the neck is well connected to the body, I was thinking of doing a long heel. If you have two pickup cavities this would be no problem, but since mine only has one you can see where this is heading. What's the best way of removing the extra material to body level? I have some ideas on this my self, but there may be better ideas out there.

Thanks in advance

[j. pierce]

I've done this twice, and done it two different ways - both are simple and work fairly well.

One:

Inserted the neck into the pocket, and scribed around the tenon where it stands it proud using a sharp marking knife or a pencil. Then brought it over to the bandsaw, cut off most of the waste. Insert the neck again, and use a firm sanding block to make it perfectly flush.

Depending on how your tenon is constructed (whether it is the full width of the neck or not) and whether the headstock gets in the way, you may need to attach some scrap to send it through the bandsaw in a proper fashion.

Two:

Another option is to set up to rails for the router to ride on. These should be squared true and of the exact same thickness so that the router base is always perpendicular to the surface of the guitar top. (MDF, being quite flat and uniform in size can work quite well here if you don't have appropriate hardwood scraps handy - if you need more height for the base of the router to clear the tenon, just stack them up.)

Set the rails up on either side of the neck tenon where it is proud, attached with double stick, or clamped to the top of the body if they're long enough to clear. Adjust the router to the appropriate depth - don't take off too much in each pass, and use the router to remove the extra wood.

I also find it better to back off from the surface of the top, and leave a little bit to sand rather than trying to go all the way with the router.

If you'd feel more comfortable with a larger surface for the router to ride on, you can attach the two rails using countersunk screws to a piece of MDF or plywood, with a gap cut out for the router bit to enter through. (If the material is not proud enough of the surface that you need the rails, you can use just the sheet of MDF) If you used a template constructed like this to cut your neck pocket, you may be able to reuse it to perform this operation - if you plan on reusing the template in the future, take precautions to avoid damaging it with the router.

With the router method, you'll want to set up a stop to keep from nicking the end of the fretboard. If the board is high enough, you may be able to simply use a bearing guided router bit, otherwise you'll have to set up a stop above neck for the router base to butt against. (Don't leave anyhting up to chance.) Of course, your fretboard angle and geometry may mean you don't have to route all the way against the fretboard. If you do need to route up against the board, you may could leave the last bit of to clean up by hand with a chisel.

Depending on how much you need to remove, a small handplane may also be an option - this depends on how much sole is in front of the throat, and how close to the fretboard you need to go.

[Bryan316]

This video shows everything you need to know with the clamped rails method:

Also notice that he used a center block at the end of the neck's tenon, to keep the router from going too far back into the body. A perfect technique. Also, as you see him test-fit the neck in the pocket, his pocket had the router bit's radius in the corners, and his tenon had matching radii on its corners. This makes for a perfect fit both for gluing and for cosmetics.

Do a couple practice runs. Scrap 2x4's of pine work well. Just cut a fake neck tenon, then use the clamped rail method to test-route a neck pocket. Do everything as if you really were gluing up a neck joint. I'd say do two complete glued joints. If you can get the tenon to be as snugly fit as in this video, and your glue lines are cleaned up and don't look ugly, then you're ready. But definitely do a couple tests. This is the most critical point in your construction process, so you want this done right!

[killemall8]

This video shows everything you need to know with the clamped rails method:

Also notice that he used a center block at the end of the neck's tenon, to keep the router from going too far back into the body. A perfect technique. Also, as you see him test-fit the neck in the pocket, his pocket had the router bit's radius in the corners, and his tenon had matching radii on its corners. This makes for a perfect fit both for gluing and for cosmetics.

Do a couple practice runs. Scrap 2x4's of pine work well. Just cut a fake neck tenon, then use the clamped rail method to test-route a neck pocket. Do everything as if you really were gluing up a neck joint. I'd say do two complete glued joints. If you can get the tenon to be as snugly fit as in this video, and your glue lines are cleaned up and don't look ugly, then you're ready. But definitely do a couple tests. This is the most critical point in your construction process, so you want this done right!

really, i dont think that had to do with anything he asked about. he just asked if you could just leave the tenon exposed, and how to level it off. not how to rout the neck pocket for a tennon.

[mattharris75]

I've used the router method that J. Pierce described. It's quite easy to do and works well. I just take a couple of pieces of MDF and lay them roughly parallel to the neck using double sided tape. I then take two more pieces of MDF and lay them across the first two to serve as the platform my router will sit on. I align one of these pieces exactly with the end of the fingerboard to ensure that I don't route into that. Then I use a template bit so that I can follow that board on the fingerboard side and just take several passes to get it close to level and then finish it off with sandpaper. It's really pretty darn easy.

[Hector]

how about using some hand tools?

planes and chisels and some sandpaper.

works just fine without setting up a router and rails.

[killemall8]

what i do is just put a router bit in my drill press, and run it across the bit until its level.

[mattharris75]

how about using some hand tools?

planes and chisels and some sandpaper.

works just fine without setting up a router and rails.

I just use scraps of MDF I have laying around and throw a template bit in the router. Takes 5 minutes to set up and is significantly faster than using hand tools. But to each their own!

[Hector]

I just use scraps of MDF I have laying around and throw a template bit in the router. Takes 5 minutes to set up and is significantly faster than using hand tools. But to each their own!

If I want to do this really fast, I'd just use my safeTplaner, it would be even faster than setting up the router. but I do like using my hand tools. as we all can see, there`s many many ways of doing this task.

Edited May 16, 2008 by Hector

[mattharris75]

I just use scraps of MDF I have laying around and throw a template bit in the router. Takes 5 minutes to set up and is significantly faster than using hand tools. But to each their own!

If I want to do this really fast, I'd just use my safeTplaner, it would be even faster than setting up the router. but I do like using my hand tools. as we all can see, there`s many many ways of doing this task.

I really like using my safe-t-planer, it's a very effective tool. However, in this case it's such a small area that's being routed, and it requires such precision that a jig would be necessary to make sure that you don't run into the end of the fretboard. Of course, you could do that and it would be very effective if you did. As you said, there are many ways that will work, but the router and rails method seems to be the simplest for me in this particular case.

[WezV]

for me its router and rails every time, but i use my router jig for most things now

i am currently on mk2, an old piece of kitchen worktop with a couple of bits of steel bolted to it and a coupel or rails attached to the router

mk1 was much like matt describes

in action:

[Dirge for november]

Thank you for all the replies! @killemall: all extra info is welcome of course, as this is going to be my first set neck. (actually my first neck at that). The idea I had in mind before opening this topic was the bandsaw idea.

[fridge]

I think this is what i think you are looking for:

http://www.guitaristjeffmiller.com/guitars12.htm

its the same idea im using for a tele im working on

scroll down some and you will see were he adds the neck angle and makes the remaining wood flush with the body.

[wood is good]

About 1 year late.

[WezV]

and it doesnt show how he levelled it off - just before and after!