Bygde Posted May 21, 2008 Report Share Posted May 21, 2008 Scored a log of FREE maple today! My neighbour used to have a tree in his yard, which was cut down (before I started building guitars ). Well today he cut down the rest of the log, and I went over and asked if I could take the biggest piece, and he said yes! He would've dumped it in the scrapyard anyways so. It's about 80cm long, and about 35cm in diameter. I don't know if this will be useable at all, but hey! It was free! Might as well give it a shot. My "father in law" (me and my girlfriend isn't married yet ) has a mill in the village they live in, so this friday I will take the log with me and get it cut. I really hope that I'll get some useable pieces out of it, since maple isn't exactly growing on trees were I live I've painted the freshly-cut end with an oilbased paint, since I don't know if I'll get it cut this weekend. Roger is one busy man I tell ye! Fingers crossed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wohzah Posted May 21, 2008 Report Share Posted May 21, 2008 my friend you are a lucky, lucky man. It is also cool to build things and see them go from tree to finished project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WAK Guitars Posted May 21, 2008 Report Share Posted May 21, 2008 my friend you are a lucky, lucky man. It is also cool to build things and see them go from tree to finished project. +1. Haha when I saw "Free Maple" I was thinking "YEE ITS MY LUCKY DAY! FREE MAPLE!". Nice score though man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted May 21, 2008 Report Share Posted May 21, 2008 I don't know much about wood, but I know that you should look into the other steps (besides cutting) to take in preparation for using it on a musical instrument. Certainly it will need to be dried. Great that you have someone that can cut it, though! Should be very rewarding, as mentioned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted May 21, 2008 Report Share Posted May 21, 2008 Cool! Good to see you making use of the wood. Keep in mind shrinkage when you have it cut up, so you don't end up with bits that are a bit small. Of course if your father in law has a mill, I am sure he understands drying shrinkage . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bygde Posted May 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2008 Yeah, I'm very lucky/happy Sorry to have mislead everyone that I'm handing out free maple though! It'll be veri interesting to see the log being cut to boards, that's something you don't see every day. And yes, the wood will be dried at least a year before I even think about touching it. Might sit a little longer, we'll just have to see. I'm even planning of drying it in my room since it's always about 5 degrees hotter than the rest of the house in the summer (and probably winter as well). Any thoughts about that? About shrinkage...I am cutting them oversized. How much I can't tell yet, since I'd like to use some of it for a neck-through (if I get enough wood out of the log), and therefore I don't know how thick I should make them. Any suggestions? I reckon for neck-through I'll need about 2" (before drying), and maybe 1-2/5" for bolt on/set-neck maybe. I don't know really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 22, 2008 Report Share Posted May 22, 2008 Take a metal detector to it before you cut anything....it could have all manner of tacks, nails or debris in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bygde Posted May 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2008 (edited) Unfortunately, I don't own a metal detector, and I don't know anyone who does either. But I think I've got an area where it might be metal pieces, this will be thoroughly checked however. Edited May 22, 2008 by Bygde Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bygde Posted May 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2008 Roger said that he and a friend of his is going to cut some wood in a week or two, and my log will be cut together with their stuff. Until then, it'll probably be stored at my girlfriends house. So I'll be back with the pics when it's cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanthus Posted May 23, 2008 Report Share Posted May 23, 2008 I think the best part about this is that you can cut as much of it quartersawn as you want! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bygde Posted May 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2008 Haha true! But since this will be dried for such a long time, most of it will be flat. I'll get some pieces quartered though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zyonsdream Posted May 24, 2008 Report Share Posted May 24, 2008 The landlord that owns the house next to me just cut down a huge maple tree (for no reason other than he didn't want to rake leaves) and I asked him if I could have it and he said no (for no reason I could come up with.) He didn't sell it and in fact paid someone to haul it away for him. From what I heard, the whole tree went into a landfill. I even have a guy who would have cut it and dried it. Would have cost me about $1.00/BF to have it cut and dried. Congrats on your score and for having a neighbor who doesn't suck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted May 25, 2008 Report Share Posted May 25, 2008 Shrinkage will be about 5-7%(depending on orientation). Since you won't have much perfect orientation happening figure shrinkage at 7-8%, plus allow enough thickness to surface any twisting/cupping or what have ya. 8/4 stock is usually cut close to 2.25", and should surface out 1-7/8"-2" unless you get some nasty cupping or twisting. You don't want to cut too close to finished dimension, or you may wind up with unusable pieces. Also keep in mind checking and splitting happens, so don't cut too close in length. As for drying. I wouldn't recommend drying too agressively. The faster you dry the higher your losses. You would do well to take it easy until your under 15% moisture, then move it to a warmer, dryer location. Figure on at least 1 year per. inch if you are air drying, and to get the wood down to moisture levels we use for instruments, count on about 25% longer. That may be slightly higher or lower depending on your climate. Don't rush it though Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToddW Posted May 25, 2008 Report Share Posted May 25, 2008 Hi, You said the tree was cut down before you started building guitars, but you joined almost 2 years ago. So was this actually a dead tree for a couple of years? If it was, I don't know how much of it will be usefull wood. Heck, maybe you'll wind up with a bunch of beautiful spalted maple tops, or maybe there will be lots of internal checking. But either way, if it's been dead for a while, I do some research to see if you should consider kiln drying it to kill any critters that may have set up shop in it. Todd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted May 25, 2008 Report Share Posted May 25, 2008 Hi, You said the tree was cut down before you started building guitars, but you joined almost 2 years ago. So was this actually a dead tree for a couple of years? If it was, I don't know how much of it will be usefull wood. Heck, maybe you'll wind up with a bunch of beautiful spalted maple tops, or maybe there will be lots of internal checking. But either way, if it's been dead for a while, I do some research to see if you should consider kiln drying it to kill any critters that may have set up shop in it. Todd If it was rotting it would be soft as heck by now, and he would spot that in a heart beat. Clearing the bark will remove the crawly buggers home, as soon as the wood has dried to a reasonable level, the mold and rotting would be halted. Kiln drying is not a "hot" process, but it does bring the moisture levels down faster, by controlling the temp., humidity, and airflow to a prescribed schedule appropriate for the wood(some woods can take more agressive schedules, some can't. The schedules provide some loss control). There are some homegrown methods of speeding up the process, such as placing a piece of wood in a black garbage bag on a mildly sunny day, leave it for a bit, then pull it out, turn the back inside out and do it again. The small volume of air in the bag will only allow a certain amount of moisture to be drawn out, thus controlling the drying rate. Personally though, I would suggest not rushing it, you only increase risk the faster you force the wood to dry. Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToddW Posted May 26, 2008 Report Share Posted May 26, 2008 Kiln drying is not a "hot" process, but it does bring the moisture levels down faster, by controlling the temp., humidity, and airflow to a prescribed schedule appropriate for the wood(some woods can take more agressive schedules, some can't. Rich, Can you explain why you say kiln drying is not a hot process? I was in a kiln last summer to check to temperature and humidity of the wood with a guy who has several shipping containers that had been turned into wood kilns. Temp/humidity controlled venting, monster fans . . . He can control the drying rate so it's very slow at first. It was sweltering inside! On an 80 degree day it was at least 120 degrees in there with the doors open. I'm guessing it was hotter before the doors were open, because those big fans were on and must have vented some moisture and heat when we opened the door. With the doors closed, it would have been unlivable for a human very fast. Bugs may be tougher, but isn't kiln drying is an accepted method to kill pests in imported wood. http://www.ars.usda.gov/is/np/mba/oct96/eradic.htm http://www.tis-gdv.de/tis_e/verpack/holz/export/ispm15.pdf Regards, Todd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted May 27, 2008 Report Share Posted May 27, 2008 (edited) Kiln drying is not a "hot" process, but it does bring the moisture levels down faster, by controlling the temp., humidity, and airflow to a prescribed schedule appropriate for the wood(some woods can take more agressive schedules, some can't. Rich, Can you explain why you say kiln drying is not a hot process? I say it is not a "hot" process because often times people ask about kiln drying wood in their oven, as in very high temps. Depending on the wood and schedule, 90-120 deg. F. and higher temps to equalize and condition are not uncommon. You have to be set up to control relative humidity(a proper kiln), and if you don't know what your doing you can cause a lot of drying damage. You have to bring the wood to a very low moisture content before you bring up the heat(drop the relative humidity at higher temp) and force the wood to an over dry state, then finish by conditioning(ramping up the relative humidity at higher temps). Kiln drying is not bad, and it is fast, but it has risks(potentially checking, splitting, and also case hardening). Yes, heat is acceptable by some governments as a way to kill potential pests. Perry(Rhodes56) told me about some figured Maple they cooked and destroyed in customs. I shipped him a big burl that luckily was extreamly well dried before shipping, because they cooked it, and from what he told me it did survive the process. Heat drying wood should be avoided unless you are experienced. I do not advise it, unless you know what your doing and have equipment. Moderate temps, and good air flow is as accelerated as I think most people should attempt.(just my opinion) Peace,Rich Edited May 27, 2008 by fryovanni Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToddW Posted May 27, 2008 Report Share Posted May 27, 2008 Thanks for the clarification. That goes with what I've understood and with what Scott does when he kiln dries wood. Todd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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