Jump to content

Adjust Truss Rod With Strings Tuned Up Or Not?

Recommended Posts

i would agree w/ erik, and disagree with ihocky;

although it makes sense to want the strings to pull the neck, its not something that should be that quik;

loosen the strings, do the 1/8- 1/4 turn;

tighten strings and play around with it; it may seem right away that othing happened but after a lil playing and time , the neck will slowly(properly) give more releif with the strings pulling over a period of time;

like bending sides, if you do it slow the wood ''naturally'' finds it place; if its rushed it will return to where its been for a long time

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Strings tuned to pitch.

Read the neck (ie: do you want more relief, less relief) and push the neck gently into the position you want. The best way is to lay the guitar down with the body supported and a padded support under the end of the neck. Push in the middle of the neck, and then tweak the rod (small adjustments - 1/8th at a time) until you get the result you want.

Doing it this way, the rod isn't having to move the neck, it's just taking up slack to hold it in the position you've introduced. I find the neck settles faster this way too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As Setch points out, you don't want to use the rod to actually move the neck, that is the point. You want the rod to simply counter the pull of the strings, so Setch's method works fine so long as you have access to the rod's adjustment nut with the guitar face-down.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My routine is pretty much always the same: Neck arrives unstrung. I remove t-rod adjusting nut (if it's the kind that comes off), use a pipe-cleaner to clean the threads, apply some graphite grease into the adjuster nut's threads and on the bearing face of the nut, put nut back on and tighten it all the way (oh crap, sometimes it needs spacers added). String the sucker up and check relief. If it's dead straight or just slightly back-bowed, then in the "set-up" jig it stays for at least a day. If I see right away there's extreme back-bow or extreme relief, I don't want to leave it that way and will adjust to something more reasonable (but at *this point* favor slight back-bow over any relief). If the relief is extreme (which I see all too often these days) then I have to get all medieval chiropractor on it's ass, and then into the set-up jig to settle. For pre-fretwork I want it as dead straight as possible. For a "ready to gig" set-up, I would rather have .002" to .005" relief than even a hint of back-bow.

The main thing is, often you have a neck adjusted straight, and within 24 hours it'll creep into more relief than you wanted.

I don't think there's any reason why the guitar would need to be "face down" when helping the neck adjust.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...