GoodWood Posted June 9, 2008 Report Share Posted June 9, 2008 (edited) Ok, for those who live vicariously, ( including me:rolleyes: ) I have started a new build, (yes, just for you!) Maybe I can finish this one. I have some secret weapons: Thats a Martin Seconds guitar neck and neck block. Im also possibly using a Martin bridge. Im just looking at boxes for the next couple of years I think. These are standard dreds (Stewi Mac plans) but I'm sloping the shoulders a bit. Thats 10 mahogany sides, ready and waiting, and waiting, and waiting.... One Red Spruce top (maybe adi?) and 2 White Adi tops. The (new) mold needs some redoing, its too narrow for the steel on top. Grrrrr Edited June 9, 2008 by GoodWood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pariah223 Posted June 10, 2008 Report Share Posted June 10, 2008 excellent, looking forward to seeing your progress... Everyone uses those bending machines except me huh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoodWood Posted June 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2008 (edited) excellent, looking forward to seeing your progress... Everyone uses those bending machines except me huh? Steve's Guitar Making Part 4 - Sides 2 of 4 This guy used a piece of fence pipe, for nothing, and a blowtorch for a side bender, you gotta find it though, he has a lot of good tutes...His kerf jig sucks though.... I would also pre cut my sides..... oh here it is . Edited June 11, 2008 by GoodWood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaam Posted June 11, 2008 Report Share Posted June 11, 2008 I use a hair curling iron for my uke sides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scab Posted June 11, 2008 Report Share Posted June 11, 2008 This is awesome! Mahogany is an awesome timber- durable & very stable. Perfect for building acoustic guitars looking forward to more progress pics.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo Posted June 12, 2008 Report Share Posted June 12, 2008 I use a hair curling iron for my uke sides. Perhaps a foolish question... is there any reason this wouldn't work for guitar sides? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaam Posted June 12, 2008 Report Share Posted June 12, 2008 No idea. Its probably more difficult to do those long bends because atleast "my" curling iron is very thin and its difficult to get longer smoothe curves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo Posted June 13, 2008 Report Share Posted June 13, 2008 No idea. Its probably more difficult to do those long bends because atleast "my" curling iron is very thin and its difficult to get longer smoothe curves. But for someone on a budget, who can't find pipe with a 3" diameter... ? Any more opinions on this idea? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted June 13, 2008 Report Share Posted June 13, 2008 No idea. Its probably more difficult to do those long bends because atleast "my" curling iron is very thin and its difficult to get longer smoothe curves. But for someone on a budget, who can't find pipe with a 3" diameter... ? Any more opinions on this idea? The second I say No, someone will chime in and say I did it. It will be a pain in the butt to try to use and achieve a decent result. You can make a basic pipe bender for a very reasonable price(home brew), if you must go that way. In the end investing in a heat blanket will be totally worth doing. It is easier to use, control, more reliable, can achieve super results(smooth, non distorted bends). That would be my recommendation. Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoodWood Posted June 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2008 The blowtorch and pipe looks like it will work for a first timer, but be careful, have a fire extinguisher nearby. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoodWood Posted June 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2008 Ok, got one top done with HHG, man, no more brush, I need a bottle for this. Took 47 seconds and went to the last drop of glue. We'll see if its a good joint in a few days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carousel182 Posted June 17, 2008 Report Share Posted June 17, 2008 blow torch and pipe is definitely the way to go if you don't want to buy a heat blanket. my first attempt at it came out just as good as my first and second attempts at a heat blanket bend came out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo Posted June 17, 2008 Report Share Posted June 17, 2008 Thanks for answering my question, guys. Sorry for the short hijack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoodWood Posted June 27, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2008 Wow, what a day. I got a 'new'-old plane, an 11" 5 1/4. It's in great condition, and the blade was nice and sharp, these are the ones to look for. It's worth the extra $10.00 to get a plane that was taken care of. I am using this to thickness the tops way down, so the sanding machine is minimum. The plane was pure joy to work with, taking off nice shavingss of wood. The corners on the blade are rounded, so it really glides nicely on the wood, with little or no tear-out. I would say that thickness sanding takes the fun out. This is really the way to go, you just need to be scary sharp. I am looking at a thicker blade, and I may tooth this one. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoodWood Posted July 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2008 (edited) Ah, humidity is too high to work in the garage today, stuck the guitar in some plastic with a hygrometer, -so I decided to practice my jointing skills on some test top sitka. I have an old Stanley #6 or 7, its about 23" long, I put the new HOC blade in it. (My 'new' 5 1/4 is not square on the sides) But this plane is perfect square. Ok, had some issues with the table top squareness or something, figured it out, grrrrrr, then I hit it pretty good, I kept taking the blade down on successive passes till almost nothing came out. First time I did the light test, BOOM Nuthin commin through. Did it with the worklight, nothing. no shipe nothing but wood!! Glued er up, now to do a 1.5 hour weight test, see how much it can take before she pops. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- I got it up to 35 Lbs, without problems, creaking or anything. Im always a little leary about hand bending, but I'm worried about cracking the board when I bend this joint. 1 hr 50 minutes after glue up HHG. Looks like I've got 2 or 3 years backsplice there! Edited July 18, 2008 by GoodWood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted July 18, 2008 Report Share Posted July 18, 2008 squareness doesn't matter when using a shooting board, really. The joint halves mirror each other if you do it right. And I'm with you on hand tools for thicknessing, as long as we're talking about guitar tops. And not about hardwood (let alone figured hardwood) back/side sets or levelling rosettes with funky wood and pearl. At that point I'll take my thickness sander, ta! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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