marko_slash Posted June 17, 2008 Report Share Posted June 17, 2008 hi, I am building a Ibanez JEM, I have reached the point where I install the truss rod xD I dont have any plans for the neck, so I'll ask you: does the cavity for truss rod goes as long as the rod is? how deep is cavity on edges, and how deep in the middle? PLEASE HELP, IT IS URGENT! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djhollowman Posted June 17, 2008 Report Share Posted June 17, 2008 Hi, What kind of rod are you using? If it's one inside an aluminium channel, then this might help. There are plenty of tutorials online regarding truss rods. DJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihocky2 Posted June 18, 2008 Report Share Posted June 18, 2008 Which truss rod do you have. Some need a curved channel, some don't. Without knowing which rod it is, we can;t give an answer. As for the length, yes make the channel as long as the rod is. If you are making a head end adjust, I like to place the truss rod nut so that the end of it is roughly under the string nut. Just go with the full length of the rod from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marko_slash Posted June 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2008 Truss rod is this: http://www.turboimagehost.com/p/428699/DSC00015.JPG.html and another question: is truss rod cavity closed with some wood, or it is closed only with fingerboard??? please help :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djhollowman Posted June 18, 2008 Report Share Posted June 18, 2008 That looks like a two-way rod. According to this it sits in a flat-bottomed channel, which makes sense, but then it goes on to say that it's free-floating so you don't epoxy it in place? (Is this always the case? Maybe some of the more experienced members could comment on this bit please ) So, if it sits in a flat-bottomed channel you would not need a filler strip on top of it. You would rout a channel which is the same depth as the rod assembly, so that the rod's upper surface is level with the top of your neck wood. Then, when the fingerboard is glued on, the rod is covered. DJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marko_slash Posted June 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2008 thanks a lot! I appreciate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flon Klar Guitars Posted June 18, 2008 Report Share Posted June 18, 2008 Yeah, you want the rod to "free-float" in the channel- but just barely, you don't want any room for it to twist or rattle. I always round the bottom of the channel to match the round rod, and (as stated) the flat rod should be flush with the surface of the neck. You don't want to glue the rod in or even get any squeeze-out from gluing the f/b into the channel (make sure you mask the channel when spreading the glue)- this will impede the operation of the rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted June 22, 2008 Report Share Posted June 22, 2008 Just one more point, make sure you don't put the rod in upside down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpcrash Posted June 22, 2008 Report Share Posted June 22, 2008 In a similar pickle - I've just had a JEM in terrible shape dropped off for "complete rebuild". The f/b had a scallop attempt with what looks like a steak knife - so it needs to be replaced. Removed it and the truss rod sprang up in a nice bow. The adjustment nut appears to be secured at the head by a cut washer driven into the neck. 1. Is this factory??? Forgive my lack of Ibanez knowledge 2. If anybody has exact f/b measurements I would appreciate it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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