Strap Button Locations For Pointy Guitars

[WarriorOfMetal]

I'm nearing completion on my first build, and I came across a bit of a dilemma with my strap button placement. The body has already been finished, so dulling the upper horn's point is not a realistic option for me....however, I plan to use Marvel straplocks, so I don't feel like putting the upper strap button on the back of the body is a good option in terms of physical comfort (or lack thereof). What I'm wondering, is how sharp of a point can you get away with, and still have a strap button be reasonably secure, and not worry much about it breaking through the top of the horn?

The body is alder, and the screw is about 1" long. Here's a picture of the screw and strap button held against the tip of the upper horn:

[Prostheta]

Either mount it on the back of the horn (make sure it still fits in your case!) or recess the button into the horn slightly. This will be difficult on such an acute horn however, as those buttons have quite a footprint.

The alternative is something like the Dunlop flush mount straplocks, as the recess is much smaller and the majority of the mechanism is on the strap itself.

http://www.jimdunlop.com/index.php?page=pr...cts/accessories

That said, if you lose your strap you're pretty stuck...the dual design are better...

[WarriorOfMetal]

Either mount it on the back of the horn (make sure it still fits in your case!) or recess the button into the horn slightly. This will be difficult on such an acute horn however, as those buttons have quite a footprint.

The alternative is something like the Dunlop flush mount straplocks, as the recess is much smaller and the majority of the mechanism is on the strap itself.

http://www.jimdunlop.com/index.php?page=pr...cts/accessories

That said, if you lose your strap you're pretty stuck...the dual design are better...

I don't trust Dunlop straplocks, and I find them much too difficult to put on a strap. I do not consider them to be an option.

[Prostheta]

Fair comment. I'm a Schaller guy myself!

Apologies for not reading your post properly...i'm a little sidetracked at the moment...

If you're worried about it splitting the horn, you could perhaps put a longer screw in, say 2"? You should be okay as long as you drill the hole the right width before you install.

The other option is under the horn, but again it's very acute so you don't have much to play with really.

[WarriorOfMetal]

Fair comment. I'm a Schaller guy myself!

Apologies for not reading your post properly...i'm a little sidetracked at the moment...

If you're worried about it splitting the horn, you could perhaps put a longer screw in, say 2"? You should be okay as long as you drill the hole the right width before you install.

The other option is under the horn, but again it's very acute so you don't have much to play with really.

yeah, if i can find a longer screw that's the right size, with a head that will fit properly, that may be a viable option.

[Prostheta]

If the footprint of the straplock button was smaller it would recess a lot easier. Shame it can't be ground off because of the black finish :-\

[zyonsdream]

Yup, most of my stap pins are on the back of the guitar which prevents weakening the tip of the wing. You can usually get away with a side mounted step pin on the butt but the upper strap pin usually looks best behind.

[Bryan316]

I had issues with the top horn of my current project. Then I paid attention to one of my friends' guitars, and while his horn LOOKED pointy, it was a nice optical illusion, because the front surface of the horn was tapered with a contour line. Then, the face surface of the horn was flattened maybe 1/2" wide. It allowed for the strap button to mount perfectly tight and snug.

Also, scrap the standard screw that came with your strap button. Got to a good hardware store with that strap button, and find a much longer screw that fits into your button and mounts flushed or recessed. The longer the screw, the greater the holding power and less risk of tear-out. I've replaced every strap button on every bass I've ever owned and every guitar I ever repaired. Standard wood screws (stainless are a bit more money, but are bulletproof) are easy to find in really nice lengths, just redrill the hole a bit deeper and crank it in there. Also, the longer screws don't flex as much, reducing how much the finish chips at the hole edge. Yes, after many years that hole will look all chipped up undeneath the felt of the strap button. It sucks.

[Prostheta]

Whose recent build had a hidden step-back recess at the back of the horn for the button? That worked wonderfully....Wez?

[jmrentis]

Yes, I believe that was Wez latest build with the recessed strap lock. It was what came to mind as I read this, it really was a really cool idea that turned out much better than I would have imagined it. Definitely something I found cool and fuctional. Might be worth a shot in this situation, though some minor touchups may be a requirement to make it look nice, still may be well worth it for function and looks. J

[WezV]

yeah but that was a dunlop.... which is apparently a bad and completely unacceptable solution

oh, well - its new owner didnt mind dunlop strap locks so much

oh, it also brings back memories of jaws posters

[Prostheta]

Dunlop....oooh, you git....

Jaws? "Om nom nom nom nom"!!!

[Mattia]

Having used (and owning) both Schaller and Dunlop straploks, give me dunlops any day of the week. Sturdy, solid, less rattly, easier to put on and take off, and considerably more elegant. The only upside I can really find to the Schallers is that compatible extra buttons are very easy to find.